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Topic ClosedI made an expensive mistake
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Feb 2014
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Posts: 121 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: I made an expensive mistake
    Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:39pm
There are a bunch of subtle differences. Can you call PD and ask them?
Cary
2014 RP-177
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Budward View Drop Down
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Posts: 438 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:26pm
I'm not sure why PD included a new fuse board...if it was mine I'd just cable the new PD convertor to the existing WFCO fuse board, assuming it is good.

In fact I did exactly that in another camper I once owned.
2014 179
Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel
Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!
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spacemonkey View Drop Down
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Posts: 32 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:14pm
Ok, so  got my new converter yesterday and almost got it completely installed, but i ran into something  was unsure of.  The Old WFCO fuse board has a 30 amp fuse for my slde out motor, but i was noticing the new board says 20 amp fuse max.  (see Pictures below)

Here is the new board.  You will notice that in the center of the board it says max fuse rating 20 amp. 


Here is the old board.  In this pic you will notice the 30 amp fuse for my slideout motor.  My question is how do i hook up the slideout motor to the new board?  Do i have to use a 20 amp fuse?  Is that sufficient for the slideout motor?


I also notice that on the old board there is a section for fuse 10 and 11 that says 30 amp for slideout only.

The new board only has a section that is labeled "recommended for low current circuits"  is this where i am supposed to put the slideout motor 30 amp fuse.

Thanks for your help as im a little confused on this part.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 2:12pm
Let me quote from a new post by Obewan on RV.Net.

"Was gone from the camper for a couple days and missed all the excitement! Neighbors tell me the campground experienced a large electrical surge. They lost tvs, small appliances, AC units, etc.. I lost NOTHING! Surge protector apparently worked as designed and I'm very glad I spent that money! Already recouped the cost in not having to replace anything!

Smiling in an AC camper while I watch tv!!!"

They had the plugin 30A SurgeGuard. 'Nuff said.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 9:08am
Originally posted by Budward

If it was me-   I'd jump that fuse with a very small wire, soldered across the two spots you measured at.
If the TV works then hunt down the proper fuse,  if the strand burns out or the tv doesn't work, stop there and head to the trash can.

Again this is what I'd do...YMMV and all that.Cool


I tend to agree with Budward. If the TV works the fuse protected the rest of the components and you are lucky. Use a small piece of wire like a single strand from a larger stranded wire. If it doesn't work nothing lost.

Replacement fuses are available, cheaper than Ebay, from Amazon :
http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Miniature-Square-Micro-T2-5A/dp/B009PMJ082/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1405946333&sr=8-6&keywords=t2.5a+250v

or Newark:
http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mst-2-5a-250v/fuse-pcb-2-5a-250v-slow-blow/dp/95M6782?mckv=s5hvSBoxr|pcrid|45121758995|plid|&CMP=KNC-G-SKU-MDC

However, having had the TV in my 172 and judging by comments from others, I wouldn't invest a lot in it. It was a 7 or 9 inch under counter piece of junk. That was the only option I regretted ordering with the Pod. I'm not sure if the TV in the 179 is the same or the 19" model.

The water pump remains a mystery. If you hear noise it might be running. Check for a clogged filter, broken or disconnected hose. Loose hose fittings have been reported which would let the pump suck air.

Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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Budward View Drop Down
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Posts: 438 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 5:27am
If it was me-   I'd jump that fuse with a very small wire, soldered across the two spots you measured at.
If the TV works then hunt down the proper fuse,  if the strand burns out or the tv doesn't work, stop there and head to the trash can.

Again this is what I'd do...YMMV and all that.Cool
2014 179
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Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Posts: 121 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 11:51pm
Here I found some...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pieces-250V-2-5A-Square-Slow-Blow-DIP-Mounted-Micro-Fuses-8-4-8mm-/171338345866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e48fad8a

Of course you will be the keeper of the TV fuses for Rpods...LOL
Cary
2014 RP-177
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Posts: 121 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 11:45pm
I believe that is a slow blow fuse, 2.5 AMPS, 250V. That also explains the blow out black.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MULTICOMP-MST-T2-5A-250V-FUSE-SLOW-BLOW-8-335MM-LOT-OF-5-NNB-/151160015830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2331d6cbd6

There might be a cheaper one elsewhere.

Anything else look damaged?
Cary
2014 RP-177
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spacemonkey View Drop Down
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Posts: 32 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 10:28pm
yes the ceiling lights work.  they are incandescent.  I tested the battery with my voltmeter and its putting out 12.5 volts.  maybe this is just an unrelated bad pump.  I will get it figured out.

Now for the TV.   So sorry to keep posting up more stuff, but you guys have been so much help so far.

I pulled the TV apart, and I think your right about the fuse being blown.  Lets hope that is all that is wrong.

Below are some pictures.

Here is the circuit board where the power cord came into the TV.  I removed the cord from the white connecter at left in order to expose what I believe is the fuse that is blown.  It says T2.5A 250V on it.   Where can i get a replacement like this?   Radio Shack?

I did a continuity test on it and got nothing.  I have never tested a fuse of this sort before, but I assume the way I did it in the picture below should show continuity if the fuse was still good?

In this picture you can see what looks like a little black soot around the fuse.  Kind of a dead giveaway to me that this is likely my problem.  Whats your thoughts?

I am going to give this a whirl.  I understand soldering.  I have soldered electronics (mostly wires and pots) on electric guitars, but have never done anything on a circuit board.  Ill see if i can find some good youtube vids on it too.   Cant hurt to try.  If i dont...the TV is toast anyways and I will still have to buy a new one.  If I succeed, then i saved myself several hundred bucks on a new one.  I just need to find the fuse.  Do yall think radio shack will have them?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:31pm
Originally posted by spacemonkey

Thanks CharlieM.  I think your probably right.  Im going to just order another converter and be done with it.  Im ready to go camping...haha


I'm a EE and could easily attempt the repair........but I wouldn't. I really like the PD much better. You're on the right track. I'd rather go camping too. Smile
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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