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Important - check this every time you set up

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Jazz trumpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jazz trumpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Important - check this every time you set up
    Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 9:04am
Yikes I never knew this. I will investigate and buy the right item
       John and Marilyn
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2001 Chevrolet Suburban
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jazz trumpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 8:59am
Yikes I never knew this. I will investigate and buy the right item
       John and Marilyn
2016 Rpod 180
2001 Chevrolet Suburban
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jmsokol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 7:46am
The only outlet miswiring condition it can't find is something I call an RPBG (Reverse Polarity Bootleg Ground). See http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/07/friends-of-gary-mike.html and https://www.google.com/search?q=EC%26M+RPBG&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Otherwise, this is a great unit. Probably the best on the market.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 12:10am
I have just installed a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C electrical management system, hardwired into the shore power lead-in. Do you see any potential electrical faults that would get past this device? It is advertised to protect against:
  • Over/under voltage (>132, <104)
  • Open ground, open neutral, reverse polarity
  • Accidental 240 volt connection
  • Surges
  • Frequency out of range (51-69 hz)
It is supposed to prevent connection to the power source if any of these faults are present. With lifetime warranty and field repair capability, it seemed like a good investment. Does anyone have experience with this product?
Russ
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2016 at 2:31pm
Thanks.
Walt & Lynne
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jmsokol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2016 at 2:20pm
Yes, we often use extension wires to extend meter leads.

While a NCVT will alarm reliably down to 40 volts or so AC, the Gold Standard test is to actually meter between the chassis and a known-good service panel connection. That usually entails a run of 100 feet or more. As you can see, that's only done in extreme circumstances, so the NCVT check is a great Triage method for finding bigger electrical grounding problems.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2016 at 1:06pm
Wow, everything I wanted to know about grounding!Smile Not good though in aviation!!
Thanks for the tutorial.
Okay, so is there any problem using say a 20 foot negative lead from tester back to the pedestal with alligator clips on each end. Most of the time you are not going to be close enough to the post to use the short leads on the tester?

That hand held tester still has a threshold before it alarms. Is anything before the alarm okay?
Walt & Lynne
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jimqbaum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2016 at 11:24am
Thank you JMSOKOL for the clearest concise explanation yet of the grounding issue.
Impedance is the key to understanding this!
ThanksLOL
 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2016 at 10:02am
Wow, everything I wanted to know about grounding!Smile Not good though in aviation!!
Thanks for the tutorial.
Okay, so is there any problem using say a 20 foot negative lead from tester back to the pedestal with alligator clips on each end. Most of the time you are not going to be close enough to the post to use the short leads on the tester?

That hand held tester still has a threshold before it alarms. Is anything before the alarm okay?

Walt & Lynne
2015 r-pod 177
08 F150 or 2014 Explorer
Pinckney,Mi
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jmsokol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2016 at 9:44am
Here's the deal with "ground rods". They don't actually "ground" your RV the same way that the "ground wire" does. Why the confusion? Well, the "ground wire" is actually a bond to the neutral conductor in the main service panel, in addition to an "earth ground" connection via the ground rod. The "ground wire" is more properly called the EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor) and will have an impedance of under 1 ohm. This allows it to trip a circuit breaker quickly in the event of a line-to-chassis short. On the other hand, a ground rod by itself can have up to 100 ohms impedance to earth and still be code compliant. So a chassis connection to a ground rod by itself won't draw enough current from the circuit breaker to trip it in the event of a hard short to chassis.

Hot-skin conditions come in at least three flavors. Low-Current, Mid-Current, and High-Current. While a ground rod by itself might be able to shunt the Low-Current variety of a few mA (milli-amps) to earth. It won't be able to reduce the voltage of a mid or high current fault. And any Low-Current fault can easily escalate itself to a very dangerous Mid-Current (10 mA to 1,000 mA) or High-Current (1 to 20 amperes) fault at any time. So while a ground rod by itself can drain away what would normally be non-dangerous tingles, it can't do anything to clear dangerous shocks.

Plus the NEC doesn't allow for a remote ground rod that's not bonded (attached) to the primary service panel's ground-neutral connection. The reason for that is all the points I made above. 
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