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Topic ClosedOne hot brake?

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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: One hot brake?
    Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 8:47am
Best thing you can do is to scrape off a little of the insulation on each wire, close to the brake mechanism, and do a voltmeter reading while someone is stepping on the brake.  I wouldn't just pull the emergency brake pin since that will supply the full voltage and amperage from the battery - which may hide a connection problem that would be evident at a lower voltage.  It would also hide any problem at the Bargman connection.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 1:12pm
Originally posted by Tony9704

Thanks HPodders!  I looked over the wiring, and it passed the visual test.  Buuuuut, how reliable are those connectors that they use?  You'd think for how much these things cost they could solder/heat shrink the wiring connections.  These connectors look like the crappy plastic splice ones that come with car stereos. And they are used exclusively...  Starting to make me a bit nervous.  

I am not a fan of soldering wires on a vehicle. I used to do airplane wiring in the Air Force and solder was almost never used on wireing on airplanes because soldering a stranded wire makes it a solid wire and solid wires are more likely to fail under vibration because they are to brittle. A good quality crimp is better than a soldered connection in my opinion.  
Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 8:17pm
I soldered all the connections for the marker lights when I put on the new LED's, made sure they had plenty of heat-shrink to protect the connections. The crimp-on connectors have a greater chance of failing over the years due to corrosion. Goose
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 10:30pm
We only use butt connectors with heat shrink tubing on them. No corrosion issues & the heat shrink supports the wire to keep it from breaking.
Darryl, Julie & Lindsey
Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines
2014 RP178
2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2014 at 10:25pm
So I jacked up each side of the pod and spun the wheels while the wifey pressed the brakes on the TV.  The side which was getting really hot stopped instantly.  The side that was cool after driving didn't have any braking ability.  So, that answered the first question of whether there was a brake dragging or a brake not working.  So why was the cold side not responding? Upon closer inspection, I noticed one of the crummy crimp connections was slightly sticking out higher on one side.  I took a pair of channel locks and re-crimped the splicer.  Success.  Full braking on both sides.  I'll have to remember to reset the brake controller on my next drive as the braking will be excessive now that both sides are rockin'!  The first time I did a visual I was looking for something much more obvious (broken wire) oh well at least I know these connectors are as unreliable as I thought they would be... Thanks y'all for your help.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2014 at 12:21pm
Glad to hear you figured it out.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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