Voltmeter Install

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I would agree with most of what Techntrek said with the exception of the wire size. Connecting close to the battery is highly advisable, but anywhere in the converter panel is OK. An option is one of the unused 12V fuse positions. Comes with a built in fuse and indicatior. The voltmeter draws very little current to the wire drop is negligible so 18 GA wire is acceptible, but you should install a smaller fuse to protect the wire.  A 5A fuse should be fine.

The voltmeter would be my first addition ahead of the ammeter. With it you can get a good guess at the battery condition. It gives a lot better indication than the 4 bulb OEM status panel. Later, the ammeter can tell you how the battery is charging or discharging, but you will always need the voltmeter. 

Charlie

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CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Topic: Voltmeter Install Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 7:51pm
	I would agree with most of what Techntrek said with the exception of the wire size. Connecting close to the battery is highly advisable, but anywhere in the converter panel is OK. An option is one of the unused 12V fuse positions. Comes with a built in fuse and indicatior. The voltmeter draws very little current to the wire drop is negligible so 18 GA wire is acceptible, but you should install a smaller fuse to protect the wire. A 5A fuse should be fine. The voltmeter would be my first addition ahead of the ammeter. With it you can get a good guess at the battery condition. It gives a lot better indication than the 4 bulb OEM status panel. Later, the ammeter can tell you how the battery is charging or discharging, but you will always need the voltmeter. Charlie
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

fwunder Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: New Jersey Online Status: Offline Posts: 1676	Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 6:28pm
	Thanks techntrek. Yeah, the soft switch (not momentary) is what I think I'll use. And going right to the source does make perfect sense. Not sure I understand the need for 12 gauge wire to the gauge though. We're only talking a 17 ma draw @ 14+ volts. How much drop could there be? According to this that's like a 0.0013 volt drop over 6 feet with 18 gauge wire. Just learning here. fred
	2014 RPod 178 => MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 5:34pm
	I would replace the switch with a normally-open push button. It might not use that much but over time it is a lot. The example I always give is a standard 4 watt night light. In just a month it will use almost 3000 watts. In a year it will use 35,000 watts. Make the hookup directly to the source. Use 12 gauge wire, not 16, to prevent a voltage drop.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

fwunder Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: New Jersey Online Status: Offline Posts: 1676	Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 4:09pm
	This is a good bench project cuz it's looking pretty nasty outside! I'm going to install a 12v. voltmeter (and maybe amp-meter and 120v. meter). I have a couple of questions you electrical gurus might advise on. The meter(s) will mount in the 4-inch space to the left or right of the Jensen head unit. Rummaging around the basement I found a nice suitable piece of plastic from a storage box to make a mounting plate for the meter(s). I don't think she'll notice the hole I left. ;) I want to be able to remove the plate and meter(s) as a unit for adjustment and/or replacement. The voltmeter I bought (pictured below) has a potentiometer to fine tune voltage readout if needed. I haven't mounted the switch (shown) because I haven't decided to use it or just wire it full time. The meter uses a negligible amount of current. Would you switch it? Exploring a bit, I found I could run wire pretty easily behind the Jensen head unit down to the panel/converter. Would you run it down or would you simply tap a 12v. line on the Jensen? Intuition tells me it would be better to attach (fused) hot lead to battery side of WFCO panel. Just talking 12v. voltmeter right now, not amp meter (shunt) or 120v. If you RV'd with meters which did you find the most helpful? I'm thinking the 12v. meter. I carry a multimeter (not a Fluke!) if I want to check shore power and an amp meter would probably not be good for my obsessive compulsive behavior. Thanks for any feedback. I promise not to be shocked by any response! fred
	2014 RPod 178 => MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!