Friction sway control OR weight distribution

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Jim, I hope you will still have a WDH installed.  Once you use in on the highway you will never leave home again without it.  I agree with CharlieM except I think anyone towing a R-Pod (or any other TT) will see the benefits of a WDH once they use one.  The same is true of sway control. 

Bob

Originally posted by Tars Tarkas I'd like to try a WDH sometime to see if I notice a difference, but here's what I infer from the fact that I'm not seeing a problem without a WDH,the  pod weighs roughly 3500 pounds, and that at least the E2 WDH starts with a hitch rated for 6000 pounds and goes up from there: I don't need a WDH and it seems like the WDH manufacturers don't think they are necessary for lighter-weight trailers like the pod.  Why don't they make models for 4000 and 5000 pound trailers?  I would think a WDH might really make sense for a light trailer behind a TV rated to pull a 3500 pound trailer.  Maybe not so much for a pod behind a TV rated to pull 5000 pounds. I used to think trailer brakes were sort of a luxury for careless people.  Having used them with the pod I'm totally convinced they are almost an absolute necessity, aside from the fact that they are almost universally legally required.  I have an open mind about WDHs, but remain unconvinced, at least in my case with an FJ Cruiser rated to pull 5000 lbs and with WDH manufacturers implying rather clearly that they don't see a need, or at least they don't see a market, for WDHs for trailers under 6000 pounds. Convincing me to spend $400 just to check it out is so far a no-go. TT

I think a more accurate way to look at the E2 ratings is "up to." The 6000 pound unit is good up to 6000, the 10000 pound unit is OK up to 10000, etc. The promary factor in the FJ's 5000# rating is the 4.0L engine in place of the 3.5L. The bigger engine helps acceleration and in overcoming wind resistance on the highway. It doesn't help the ride or the steering properties. The main thing you would notice with the WDH is a reduction what some call porpoising. This is the bucking or bouncing caused by the trailer bouncing on the ball when going over dips and bumps on the road. If you're not bothered now and if the loading on the rear bumper does not mess up the front wheel steering you're good to go.

And I wholly agree on the brakes. Yes..Yes..Yes

I'd like to try a WDH sometime to see if I notice a difference, but here's what I infer from the fact that I'm not seeing a problem without a WDH,the  pod weighs roughly 3500 pounds, and that at least the E2 WDH starts with a hitch rated for 6000 pounds and goes up from there: I don't need a WDH and it seems like the WDH manufacturers don't think they are necessary for lighter-weight trailers like the pod.  Why don't they make models for 4000 and 5000 pound trailers?  I would think a WDH might really make sense for a light trailer behind a TV rated to pull a 3500 pound trailer.  Maybe not so much for a pod behind a TV rated to pull 5000 pounds.

I used to think trailer brakes were sort of a luxury for careless people.  Having used them with the pod I'm totally convinced they are almost an absolute necessity, aside from the fact that they are almost universally legally required.  I have an open mind about WDHs, but remain unconvinced, at least in my case with an FJ Cruiser rated to pull 5000 lbs and with WDH manufacturers implying rather clearly that they don't see a need, or at least they don't see a market, for WDHs for trailers under 6000 pounds.

Convincing me to spend $400 just to check it out is so far a no-go.

TT

Before I moved from the Midwest, I was pulling a 6800# trailer using a 10,000# capacity WDH.  I kept that hitch and now use it on my R-Pod, although it is larger than recommended.  Buy a 6000# capacity hitch instead.

Bob

+1 on the E2.  I've had mine about 3 years now and still use it with my newer TV even though it isn't necessary from a weight distribution standpoint.  It still makes the ride much more comfortable, acting as an additional spring between the TV and pod.