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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery dead:won't charge
    Posted: 26 Jun 2013 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by Anthony Valenzano

Okay - so I'm hogging this thread now - but once I get one something I can't stop :-)

I pulled out the manual for the power converter for my Pod and it's not what I would consider a battery charger, and certainly not a 3-stage charger.  Basically it's a power supply that can switch between two voltages, 14.4V and 13.8.  It's nice that it lowers to 13.8 to stop over-charging but it does not float the battery, although 13.8 should be fine to leave attached to the battery. 


Anthony, check your documentation. The converter in my 2013 RP-172 is a WFCO WF-8955PEC. It is a 3-stage charger with 14.4V Bulk Mode, 13.6V Absorption Mode, and 13.2V Float Mode. It is rated at 55 Amps, but probably only supplies that if the battery is really depleted.
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2013 at 9:34pm
Yup, they are 3-stage chargers.  I will have to disagree on the 100% DOD assertion.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2013 at 9:55pm
SmileWould you beleive that all the fuses were in the off position!  New problem The refrigerator failure light is flashing. It is in the electric mode.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2013 at 10:46pm
They say float mode but then they go on to say that it doesn't float. They even put quotes around it "Float mode". What it really does is drop to 13.2V, A float charger disconnects from the battery until it discharges some. Its sort of more like a trickle charger that can deliver loads of current.
But that's not the point that concerns me at all. A lead acid this size can not be charged with 35 or 55 amps and last. A three mode charger should charge with a fixed current, then a fixed max voltage, and then trickle or float. The fixed current should be appropriate for the battery attached. 2 to 4 amps for something this size. So my point is just that if the battery is really low, bring it up with a real charger that you can select the charge rate and it will last much longer. The deeper you happen to accidentally discharge the more important this is.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 12:10am
Originally posted by 21grandma

New problem The refrigerator failure light is flashing. It is in the electric mode.

Which electric mode? AC or DC?
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Seanl View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 6:50am
Originally posted by 21grandma

SmileWould you beleive that all the fuses were in the off position!  New problem The refrigerator failure light is flashing. It is in the electric mode.



Don't know if you have the same model fridge but if you push and hold the mode button until it shuts off then push mode button again to turn it on it should reset.
Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 8:06am
OuchPushed mode and will turn off. but when I push mode to turn it back on, it begins flashing. Where is AC indicator?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by 21grandma

OuchPushed mode and will turn off. but when I push mode to turn it back on, it begins flashing. Where is AC indicator?

The light that is lit  below is the AC indicator the one below it is battery and below that gas. 


Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 1:49pm
Sounds like you are getting 12 volts from the converter, which runs the fridge's brains, but still no AC.  One thing to check is the GFCI outlet inside, it may be the same circuit that runs the fridge and if the outlet has tripped you'll need to reset it.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2013 at 2:29pm
ShockedBothe buttons are pushed in on the GFCI outlet, and neither one will pop out.
21grandma
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