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Topic ClosedBearing grease blown out into brake assembly

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Goose View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Bearing grease blown out into brake assembly
    Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 4:47pm
Yikes, $7 a seal. I just bought seals to repack the bearings for $1.45 a seal from the local Dexter Axle dealer this morning.
I don't know how to do links but you can go to Croft Trailer Supply, search for GS84 Seals which is the number for the Dexter axle seals.
Now that I have said that after looking at shipping costs you are right back up to the $7 figure. Goose
   
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 4:23pm
As a final comment on my bearing lube, I had purchased FOUR seals from my local "trailer shop" - two for next time.  They charged me about $7 per seal. Last week I searched on eTrailer.com and found them LOTS cheaper and ordered them (2 fur special). I compared them yesterday and found them identical -double lip rubber seal- except the eTrailer rubber seals looked wider and better made. I'll be using them next time.

Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 11:02pm
A very small amount of grease will squeeze through the roller bearings; most of the grease will come over the top and under the bottom of the bearing. Make sure that your bearing packer is screwed down good and tight.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:46pm
Originally posted by Bill-GA

When I used the packer I was expecting the grease to ooze out from around the actual bearings but the grease typically came out the top or the bottom of the bearing. I saw this too on the video I watched. I guess this is normal?

I gave mine a spin and then a couple more pumps. Then slathered around the outside. The part it helps with is filling the voids inside.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:05pm
When I used the packer I was expecting the grease to ooze out from around the actual bearings but the grease typically came out the top or the bottom of the bearing. I saw this too on the video I watched. I guess this is normal?
Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 5:51pm
Originally posted by Bill-GA

Any suggestions for future correct use of packer?

like bhamster said, wide side down.


Originally posted by Bill-GA

I tightened adjusting star wheel until wheel held firmly, then backed off 6 clicks - saw that in an online video - sounded good?

That's a bit further than I tend to back them off.  But, you can always adjust them a click or two while the wheels are on the ground now that you know how its done.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:53am
Originally posted by Bill-GA

Any suggestions for future correct use of packer?

I bought the same one when I repacked mine. The bearing can probably go on either way, but I used it with the wide part at the bottom and it worked well. You'll still end up with a glob in the middle which I just picked up with my (gloved) finger and packed into the races.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 8:51pm
I did the brakes this AM. I had to disassemble the brake with the grease blowout - grease all over the place. It took 2 cans of brake cleaner in total - great stuff. I used a large plastic bin underneath to catch droppings. I also used a purchased seal remover ... really good idea as bearing hub was lower than wheel hub and would not accommodate large screw driver.

I also bought a grease packer 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDYY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I'm not sure I used it correctly - which side of bearing goes down? ... Hand packed it anyway. Any suggestions for future correct use of packer?

I saw that I have manually adjusted brakes ... So I adjusted them while wheel was raised. I tightened adjusting star wheel until wheel held firmly, then backed off 6 clicks - saw that in an online video - sounded good?  I tested them by spinning wheel and then applying brakes via manual brake controller lever.

These brakes should work way better than they were.

I will road test tomorrow.
Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2013 at 9:27pm
Thanks guys for you comments ... I'll be doing the brakes and repacking bearings with new seals in a week or so. Bill
Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
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2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2013 at 10:21pm
The brakes are pretty simple and parts are cheap.  Just use some aerosol brake cleaner and wipe down with paper towels; it'll clean up fairly easily.  Personally, I'd go with new shoes (although there should be nothing wrong with just cleaning up the old ones) - and I'd probably do both sides.

I never did like that zerk fitting, where the grease comes out under the inner bearing or the fact that the process pressurizes a void with grease, and I've never been sure where grease pushed though the inner bearing is supposed to go... but I know that others swear by regularly squeezing grease into the zerk fitting.  A yearly inspection is recommended by Forest River and the axle manufacturers.  Personally, I repack the bearings and replace the seals annually, but that may be overkill.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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