Bearing grease blown out into brake assembly
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Topic: Bearing grease blown out into brake assembly
Posted By: Bill-GA
Subject: Bearing grease blown out into brake assembly
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 8:54pm
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I got my passenger side jacked up and when I took off the wheel it was LOADED with bearing grease ... on the parts, inner hub, brake pads! Rear seal was full of grease on outter side. I cleaned the elec pad and post before taking pix. I know I need new seals, but the bearing looks good as far as I can tell (not burnt).... Heres what I need help with ... PLEASE offer suggestions... 1. I think I'll have to disassemble brake parts to clean - I've done this MANY years ago. ... WHAT DO I USE TO CLEAN them? 2. The brake pads are soaked in grease too ... CAN THEY BE CLEANED? or should I replace? 3. Should I go to a pro? This could be pricy$$$$ I pumped the zerk fittings with grease early last summer ... one side took a while (it was probably me that pumped grease into brake  . Amazingly I went to Maine (1300 miles) and back ... no problems noticed???? I've manually applied brakes with controller to make sure they work MANY times. Hmmmmm, I thought grease binds the wheel when brake is applied? I'll have to check them out when repaired. ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Replies:
Posted By: Anthony Valenzano
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 8:59pm
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Go buy Super Clean at an auto parts store. Spray on let soak for 10 minutes hose off - it will rip thru that grease. May have to do it twice. I don't think you'll even need to take it apart. Foaming engine degreaser might work really well too. Have you been pumping grease into the zerk fitting? -- Sorry just read the last line - yeah those Zerk fittings are best ignored. |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 9:28pm
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I just replaced my bearings and seals,and I asked the mech at the rv repair about using the grease zerk and he recommend the I not use it. Result would be what you have. Repack once a year with new seal. Just a thought Moe ------------- Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150 
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 10:21pm
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The brakes are pretty simple and parts are cheap. Just use some aerosol brake cleaner and wipe down with paper towels; it'll clean up fairly easily. Personally, I'd go with new shoes (although there should be nothing wrong with just cleaning up the old ones) - and I'd probably do both sides. I never did like that zerk fitting, where the grease comes out under the inner bearing or the fact that the process pressurizes a void with grease, and I've never been sure where grease pushed though the inner bearing is supposed to go... but I know that others swear by regularly squeezing grease into the zerk fitting. A yearly inspection is recommended by Forest River and the axle manufacturers. Personally, I repack the bearings and replace the seals annually, but that may be overkill. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 27 May 2013 at 9:27pm
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Thanks guys for you comments ... I'll be doing the brakes and repacking bearings with new seals in a week or so. Bill ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 8:51pm
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I did the brakes this AM. I had to disassemble the brake with the grease blowout - grease all over the place. It took 2 cans of brake cleaner in total - great stuff. I used a large plastic bin underneath to catch droppings. I also used a purchased seal remover ... really good idea as bearing hub was lower than wheel hub and would not accommodate large screw driver. I also bought a grease packer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDYY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDYY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I'm not sure I used it correctly - which side of bearing goes down? ... Hand packed it anyway. Any suggestions for future correct use of packer? I saw that I have manually adjusted brakes ... So I adjusted them while wheel was raised. I tightened adjusting star wheel until wheel held firmly, then backed off 6 clicks - saw that in an online video - sounded good? I tested them by spinning wheel and then applying brakes via manual brake controller lever. These brakes should work way better than they were. I will road test tomorrow. ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:53am
I bought the same one when I repacked mine. The bearing can probably go on either way, but I used it with the wide part at the bottom and it worked well. You'll still end up with a glob in the middle which I just picked up with my (gloved) finger and packed into the races.
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 5:51pm
like bhamster said, wide side down.
That's a bit further than I tend to back them off. But, you can always adjust them a click or two while the wheels are on the ground now that you know how its done. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:05pm
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When I used the packer I was expecting the grease to ooze out from around the actual bearings but the grease typically came out the top or the bottom of the bearing. I saw this too on the video I watched. I guess this is normal? ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 9:46pm
I gave mine a spin and then a couple more pumps. Then slathered around the outside. The part it helps with is filling the voids inside.
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2013 at 11:02pm
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A very small amount of grease will squeeze through the roller bearings; most of the grease will come over the top and under the bottom of the bearing. Make sure that your bearing packer is screwed down good and tight. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 4:23pm
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As a final comment on my bearing lube, I had purchased FOUR seals from my local "trailer shop" - two for next time. They charged me about $7 per seal. Last week I searched on eTrailer.com and found them LOTS cheaper and ordered them (2 fur special). I compared them yesterday and found them identical -double lip rubber seal- except the eTrailer rubber seals looked wider and better made. I'll be using them next time. http://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-050.html - http://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-050.html ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 4:47pm
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Yikes, $7 a seal. I just bought seals to repack the bearings for $1.45 a seal from the local Dexter Axle dealer this morning.
I don't know how to do links but you can go to Croft Trailer Supply, search for GS84 Seals which is the number for the Dexter axle seals. Now that I have said that after looking at shipping costs you are right back up to the $7 figure. Goose ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee 
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