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Topic ClosedSelf-Adjusting Brakes?

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Footslogger03 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Self-Adjusting Brakes?
    Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 8:45pm
I was quoted $168 at the dealer where I bought my 177 last October. Appointment is next week. I'll post a note after my experience. This is the FIRST time our Pod has been back to the dealer.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2013 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by bhamster

Originally posted by kymooses

I had noticed them braking better on the way home from our last trip

This seems promising, but how do you actually know that they're self-adjusting? Is it written somewhere? Have you taken it apart and seen something different inside? If so, can you share this with us so we can determine if our's are also self-adjusting?

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I finally answered my own question and thought I would post the answer for others. I now know that the brakes on my Lippert axle are self-adjusting after repacking the bearings. When the hub is off you can clearly see a cable that connects between the two pads, through a pulley and then down to an indexer on the star nut. Basically if there's too much give between the two pads it will automatically tighten them up. I would imagine that if you removed the plug on the back and looked inside with a flashlight you would also be able to see the metal tab that increments it.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2013 at 7:37pm
Thanks for sharing.
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Thinker View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Camper Bob



Surprise! Surprise!  I normally do not shop at Camping World as there prices are out of my world.  However, in checking on a price to repack the wheel bearings, they quoted $139.99 which includes adjusting the brakes.  The two local dealers I checked with both wanted between $225-$250.  Well shut my mouth, guess I will have to shop at Camping World also.  Safe Travels.


Unless you are full timing, should be many years before you need to repack wheel bearings. Normal interval for a car or truck with rear wheel drive to repack front is 25K miles. In addition, my 171 has the zerk fittings on the hubs that should extend the interval even longer, possibly "forever" in my usage level. Adjusting brakes are different for electric vs hydraulic.

Hydraulic brakes (in the old days) needed adjusting to reduce the pedal travel due to limited stroke on the master cylinder. Electric brake solanoids do not have this "low pedal" issue. If your brakes are working and your wheels are turning, I would humbly suggest they be left alone.
Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:13am
Originally posted by Thinker

If your brakes are working and your wheels are turning, I would humbly suggest they be left alone.

I would humbly suggest you check out my other post where my bearings had rust and pitting after just 2 years and 5k miles:


Pumping grease into a zerk fitting doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the bearings or seals. Think of it like adding oil to your engine... you still need to change your oil regularly.

Electric brakes absolutely have a limited stroke. And there are no solanoids used... just an electromagnet that drags on the inside of the drum. Once that magnet reaches the end of it's arc, that's it. If they're not self-adjusting they should be adjusted every few thousand miles.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:25am
bhamster, sorry you had that problem with your bearings, I would suspect they were not properly packed to begin with. How are trailer spindle bearings any different from front wheel spindle bearings on a car or truck that has rear wheel drive? How did my repack interval work so well for so many years on so many vehicles?

Understand the magnetic action on the brake drums, but that falls under the broad category of electromagnetic solenoid rather than hydraulic. I know the most common solenoids are linear solenoids, but there are other types also.

My caveat was "if your brakes are working". Should the magnet reach end of arc, they would no longer need working and thus according to my line of thinking need attention. At any time a hub is pulled bearings should be repacked and inspected.

Many people who have boat trailers experience a much shorter repack interval recommendation. This is due to wet launching of boats that immerse warm hubs into cold water causing a rapid cooling and contraction of contents which can draw water into the hubs -- not good.

Unless you drag your pod through high water (not impossible with current weather patterns), pod hubs don't need the same repack interval as boat trailer hubs.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:43am
Originally posted by Thinker

bhamster, sorry you had that problem with your bearings, I would suspect they were not properly packed to begin with.

That might be true, but it wasn't the packing that was the problem, it was water contamination. If you have a failed cap or seal (I had one of each) you need to repack. The only way to find out is to take everything apart every once in a while.

Originally posted by Thinker

How are trailer spindle bearings any different from front wheel spindle bearings on a car or truck that has rear wheel drive? How did my repack interval work so well for so many years on so many vehicles?

Trailer bearings sit for potentially months at a time. This gives the grease a chance to settle and potentially expose them to corrosive elements.

Originally posted by Thinker

Understand the magnetic action on the brake drums, but that falls under the broad category of electromagnetic solenoid rather than hydraulic.

Maybe... but your suggestion that they don't need to be adjusted because of this is incorrect and dangerous.

Originally posted by Thinker

My caveat was "if your brakes are working". Should the magnet reach end of arc, they would no longer need working and thus according to my line of thinking need attention. At any time a hub is pulled bearings should be repacked and inspected. 

Are you actually suggesting that you shouldn't adjust your brakes until they stop working? What if they stop working while I'm going down a 7% grade... ??? You should absolutely adjust your brakes BEFORE they stop working.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 3:38pm
Every time the subject of bearings and brakes comes up, advice and opinion is rampant across these boards.  Some people insist that bearings must be repacked annually.  Others claim that every other year is sufficient.  Others say that using the zerk fitting to inject grease into the hub will address any lubrication issues.

Forest River, in the owner's manual that is provided with the trailer, advises that bearings and brakes should be inspected annually.  Lippert, manufacturer of the axel, advises that bearings should be inspected annually.  Inspected, in these instances, means physically look at the brakes and bearings.

Of course, individuals will set and follow their own maintenance schedules, and that's fine.  But, c'mon folks: in addition to our own opinions on the matter, we've got to be responsible in these threads and clearly state the manufacturer's recommendations.




Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:35pm
Originally posted by Outbound

in addition to our own opinions on the matter, we've got to be responsible in these threads and clearly state the manufacturer's recommendations.

Great point... though the manuals that came with mine were pretty generic. My Lippert manual states that the brakes need to be manually adjusted, but I found out just this week that it has the automatic variety. They should still be inspected regardless of whether they are manual or automatic.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:42pm
Our 177 is a 2011 that we bought at the end of 2010 season. Last year was it's first full season on the road and we clocked quite a few miles and never had a problem.

I called our dealer in Colorado and asked what they recommended for service and at what intervals. Withouth hesitation the first thing mentioned was an axle/wheel bearing inspection.

We thought it over and for $168 it seemed worth the peace of mind. I went ahead and bought a second set of seals and hubs, just in case I would break down on the road. Getting help with an axle is one thing but finding a dealer on the road who has your exact bearings/hubs is another question.

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