Self-Adjusting Brakes?
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2927
Printed Date: 02 May 2024 at 3:07am
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Topic: Self-Adjusting Brakes?
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Subject: Self-Adjusting Brakes?
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2012 at 6:48pm
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The subject came up on a different thread...but no answer. Does the R-Pod have self adjusting brakes? One owner opened a hub port and could not find any adjusting 'star'-wheel. Thus he assumed that the brakes were self-adjusting. Was he correct? ------------- TIDALWAVE |
Replies:
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2012 at 7:35pm
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Tidalwave they are self adjusting, what was seen was the self adjusting lever that turns the star wheel to adjust the brakes as needed. The adjusting wheel is behind the lever out of sight until you raise the lever up. ahopes that this helps you. Goose ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee 
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Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 12:14am
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HI Goose, Does the self adjuster work the way a cars does when the brake a applied in reverse? ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
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Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 11:13am
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Seanl, I am not a professional mechanic but in cleaning the brake parts and looking at how it works it appears that every time the brakes are applied in any direction of travel they have the ability to adjust if needed. This is the best that I can remember from last year. Goose ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 1:35pm
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I had scheduled a 1 year PM at the dealership a while back and pretty much all I am going to have them concentrate on is the axle/bearings. But I think that while I'm at it I'll ask the tech about the brakes.
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 6:54pm
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It appears that Lippert axle-brakes are self-adjusting, while Dexter axle-brakes are not. Most of them have a manufacture label somewhere on the axle.
------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 6:56pm
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Pretty sure have a Lippert.Guess all I have to do is back up and tap the brakes every now and then ...
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 7:14pm
'Slogger, you just need to stop using the pull-throughs when you camp.  ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2012 at 10:31pm
How did you come to this conclusion? ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2012 at 10:28am
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I tried to contact Lippert, which is the axle I have. They require the axle number as well as my VIN #, date of manufacture, etc. I don't have my axle number, but again after reviewing the instructions that came with our trailer, the axle we have has only manual brake adjustment. That's not to say that either other years or other manufacturers may have self-adjusting brakes. Sometimes it's best to get the info directly from the "horses mouth." Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2012 at 10:02am
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It appears that Lippert and Dexter brakes may or may not be self-adjusting. It may depend on the year and model of the brakes. I have gotten comments about both.
------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2012 at 4:22pm
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It would be hard to believe that FR would accept the potential liability by putting non-self adjusting brakes on their units then not having lots of notice about having to have them adjusted for safety in their literature. The only thing in my literature says my axle is a Lippert, but it is in the general booklet that also specs other things as being made by different folks that my pod has. Who knows? ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2012 at 9:30pm
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I have the Dexter axle and my brakes are in fact self adjusting. As others have said maybe it's just on some of the newer models of Pods and they cover both lippert and dexter in some cases. And as mentioned backing up while applying the brakes does put tension on the spring and re-adjusts them quite nicely. I had noticed them braking better on the way home from our last trip but didn't pay it much attention as I still planned to self adjust them as discussed in the other post. Today after having backed the Pod into the driveway from our last trip, I noticed they were as they were before I did the wheel bearings maintenance. While taking the Pod in today to have the fender lights added the Pod was shuddering and bouncing a bit as I applied my TV brakes. It then occured to me that I had done enough backing around the campground and at home in the driveway to give my brakes the distance they needed to re-adjust on their own. I pulled over and reset my brake controller on a side road back down to the initial level it was on and the brakes were smooth and comfortable again. So a lot learned from a simple question about two holes in the brake drum! ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 1:05am
This seems promising, but how do you actually know that they're self-adjusting? Is it written somewhere? Have you taken it apart and seen something different inside? If so, can you share this with us so we can determine if our's are also self-adjusting?
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Posted By: podsuperior
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 10:08am
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Last weekend I noticed my trailer pulling to one side while braking. I emailed back and forth with Dexter, based on my SN# they told me I have the self adjusting brakes. The rep there told me they only adjust while braking moving forward. He told me there is no adjustment I can make and I should take the trailer to a brake shop if I continue to have the problem. I have been driving lots of dirt roads, he mentioned that my brakes may have gotten gunked up, I blew them out with a compressor - we will see if that does anything - hard to tell until I am on the highway. ------------- 2011 RPOD 177 - 2017 Tacoma |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 11:58am
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Interesting, I thought all drum brakes adjusted while braking in reverse. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 12:02pm
========================== That's always been my understanding too. Then again ...it's been a very long time since I've worked on/with drum brakes. 'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 12:04pm
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Just spoke to 2 local dealers and I am assuming that the Lippert axle on my Rpod does not have self-adjusting brakes per the instructions that came with my trailer. That said, I am approaching 6,000 miles on the trailer and that is the recommended mileage to repack the wheel bearings. Both dealers are quoting between $225-$250 to repack the bearings and adjust the brakes. Althought some of yous guys can do this yourself, I am not inclined to. Is that in the ballpark? Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 1:09pm
I looked on my axle saw the Dexter part number and then looked online for the brake drums that are the same as the ones I have. I watched a, great as always, etrailer video of that Dexter brake drum part number and the guy explains that they are self adjusting, that this cable thats shown in the video re-adjusts the brakes shoes as you are moving backward and braking. Again, mine are smooth and braking normally again. Next time that I repack the wheel bearings I'll know to back the pod down the driveway once or twice to get the shoes aligned again properly. ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 2:05pm
Can you post the link to this video so we can see what the cable looks like? Thanks
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Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 2:30pm
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Ya'll got me really curious so I spread a ground cloth and crawled under the Pod a little earlier. I have a Lippert #LC135-SBSA. Looked on-line but can't find a specific reference to that axle being one that has self-adjusting brakes. That being said ...the "SA" in the suffix "SBSA" might mean "Self Adjusting" ?
This is one of the questions on my list for the week after next when I haul the Pod down to the dealer for routine axle maintenance. 'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 2:33pm
This is the one for the 12 x 2 Dexter Nev-r adjust. http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Dexter-Trailer-Brakes-23-465.aspx - http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Dexter-Trailer-Brakes-23-465.aspx
This is the one for the non adjusting Dexter http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-106-09.html - http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-106-09.html
------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 2:51pm
| Thanks, that video was very useful. I think my trailer has a Lippert axle, but I'm sure they use a similar (if not identical) design for the brakes. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 9:05pm
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Sorry, Camper Bob, not sure what the going rate is for repacking and brake adjustment.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2012 at 10:29pm
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Mine was $105 last fall. Plus $60 for winterizing, and $250 for the deductable to fix the damage from backing into the tree first time out. It will be less this fall. Fewer miles, I am winterizing, and I did a better job backing. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 8:51am
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Not backing into trees definitely reduces the repair bills! ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:03am
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I have to admit that years ago, when I sold RV's I was backing a 30' diesel pusher into a parking space after demo-ing it to a potential buyer. Although it had a backup camera, I was unused to the very wide panoramic view of the camera on the screen. Soo, I kept backing up thinking that I had lots of room between the tree and the back of the RV. Not so! Backed into the tree and cracked the back fiberglass cover on the rear of the RV. Ouch!! My contribution to the repair was $2,500. Gotta sell lots of trailers to cover that boo boo. Much more careful now and with the Rpod it is easier to back up. Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:30am
And it is a lot more fun! ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:31am
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The video posted above is the one I had bookmarked also! ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 7:16pm
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Surprise! Surprise! I normally do not shop at Camping World as there prices are out of my world. However, in checking on a price to repack the wheel bearings, they quoted $139.99 which includes adjusting the brakes. The two local dealers I checked with both wanted between $225-$250. Well shut my mouth, guess I will have to shop at Camping World also. Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 8:45pm
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I was quoted $168 at the dealer where I bought my 177 last October. Appointment is next week. I'll post a note after my experience. This is the FIRST time our Pod has been back to the dealer.
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 3:09pm
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I finally answered my own question and thought I would post the answer for others. I now know that the brakes on my Lippert axle are self-adjusting after repacking the bearings. When the hub is off you can clearly see a cable that connects between the two pads, through a pulley and then down to an indexer on the star nut. Basically if there's too much give between the two pads it will automatically tighten them up. I would imagine that if you removed the plug on the back and looked inside with a flashlight you would also be able to see the metal tab that increments it.  |
Posted By: Racer|X|
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 7:37pm
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Thanks for sharing. ------------- |
Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 9:59am
Unless you are full timing, should be many years before you need to repack wheel bearings. Normal interval for a car or truck with rear wheel drive to repack front is 25K miles. In addition, my 171 has the zerk fittings on the hubs that should extend the interval even longer, possibly "forever" in my usage level. Adjusting brakes are different for electric vs hydraulic. Hydraulic brakes (in the old days) needed adjusting to reduce the pedal travel due to limited stroke on the master cylinder. Electric brake solanoids do not have this "low pedal" issue. If your brakes are working and your wheels are turning, I would humbly suggest they be left alone. ------------- Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171 
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Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:13am
I would humbly suggest you check out my other post where my bearings had rust and pitting after just 2 years and 5k miles: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3440&title=dont-ignore-your-bearings - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3440&title=dont-ignore-your-bearings Pumping grease into a zerk fitting doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the bearings or seals. Think of it like adding oil to your engine... you still need to change your oil regularly. Electric brakes absolutely have a limited stroke. And there are no solanoids used... just an electromagnet that drags on the inside of the drum. Once that magnet reaches the end of it's arc, that's it. If they're not self-adjusting they should be adjusted every few thousand miles.
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Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:25am
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bhamster, sorry you had that problem with your bearings, I would suspect they were not properly packed to begin with. How are trailer spindle bearings any different from front wheel spindle bearings on a car or truck that has rear wheel drive? How did my repack interval work so well for so many years on so many vehicles?
Understand the magnetic action on the brake drums, but that falls under the broad category of electromagnetic solenoid rather than hydraulic. I know the most common solenoids are linear solenoids, but there are other types also. My caveat was "if your brakes are working". Should the magnet reach end of arc, they would no longer need working and thus according to my line of thinking need attention. At any time a hub is pulled bearings should be repacked and inspected. Many people who have boat trailers experience a much shorter repack interval recommendation. This is due to wet launching of boats that immerse warm hubs into cold water causing a rapid cooling and contraction of contents which can draw water into the hubs -- not good. Unless you drag your pod through high water (not impossible with current weather patterns), pod hubs don't need the same repack interval as boat trailer hubs. ------------- Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 10:43am
That might be true, but it wasn't the packing that was the problem, it was water contamination. If you have a failed cap or seal (I had one of each) you need to repack. The only way to find out is to take everything apart every once in a while.
Trailer bearings sit for potentially months at a time. This gives the grease a chance to settle and potentially expose them to corrosive elements.
Maybe... but your suggestion that they don't need to be adjusted because of this is incorrect and dangerous.
Are you actually suggesting that you shouldn't adjust your brakes until they stop working? What if they stop working while I'm going down a 7% grade... ??? You should absolutely adjust your brakes BEFORE they stop working.
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 3:38pm
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Every time the subject of bearings and brakes comes up, advice and opinion is rampant across these boards. Some people insist that bearings must be repacked annually. Others claim that every other year is sufficient. Others say that using the zerk fitting to inject grease into the hub will address any lubrication issues. Forest River, in the owner's manual that is provided with the trailer, advises that bearings and brakes should be inspected annually. Lippert, manufacturer of the axel, advises that bearings should be inspected annually. Inspected, in these instances, means physically look at the brakes and bearings. Of course, individuals will set and follow their own maintenance schedules, and that's fine. But, c'mon folks: in addition to our own opinions on the matter, we've got to be responsible in these threads and clearly state the manufacturer's recommendations. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:35pm
Great point... though the manuals that came with mine were pretty generic. My Lippert manual states that the brakes need to be manually adjusted, but I found out just this week that it has the automatic variety. They should still be inspected regardless of whether they are manual or automatic.
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Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:42pm
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Our 177 is a 2011 that we bought at the end of 2010 season. Last year was it's first full season on the road and we clocked quite a few miles and never had a problem.
I called our dealer in Colorado and asked what they recommended for service and at what intervals. Withouth hesitation the first thing mentioned was an axle/wheel bearing inspection. We thought it over and for $168 it seemed worth the peace of mind. I went ahead and bought a second set of seals and hubs, just in case I would break down on the road. Getting help with an axle is one thing but finding a dealer on the road who has your exact bearings/hubs is another question. 'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:45pm
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Outbound, I agree. Nothing should be neglected. Remember manufacturers write half of what they do by the legal department. Bhamster gave his example, then admitted that the wheels had been flooded.
Of course PM should be done after extenuating circumstances. But I see people here with a 2013 171 out looking for someone to repack their wheel bearings and comparing prices, so money is an object. I was just trying to interject some common sense and not cause people who have no mechanical experience to become paranoid that after 5000 miles their wheels are about to fall off. This is simply not true, unless there is extenuating circumstances. The manufacturer also provides hubs with zerk fittings. Are these to be ignored? Perhaps not. This is my first year with the pod, but not my first rodeo with towing. If pod owners have a spare $150, then get a REPUTABLE mechanic pull your hubs and inspect and repack them. If you get a jack leg who does not do it right (and yes there are lots of ways to do damage), then on a new trailer it is better left alone under normal conditions. Ways to cause damage are improperly washing and hand packing the bearing set before reassembly, damaging and not replacing seals, getting grease on the brake drums or shoes (this can cause the wheel to seize and lock up) as well as not properly torqueing the castle nut or forgetting the cotter/retainer pin. All these things are far worse than leaving it alone for a while (not forever). ------------- Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:55pm
A spare set of seals and bearings is a great idea. I am going to do this too. I think Slogger means bearings and not an entire hub. Peace of mind is good. |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 4:56pm
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Bearings and the hub "cap", which gets destroyed during the removal process for inspection (or bearing replacement)
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 5:01pm
Yep, like that too.. I am going to do it. With that and a can of grease I can repack my own if I lose a bearing. |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 5:03pm
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Yeah ...after I found out what axle type I had I talked to a few mechanics in town and they said that the axles are generally not hard to source, even on the road - - but those bearings and hub caps can be a tad scarce. For the cost of parts it was worth having that back-up set in my tool box :-)
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 5:20pm
"Flooded" is a bit exaggerated... but enough rain water got in there to rust the bearings. The whole point of my post is that this happens (probably more often than you think) and the only way to find out is by doing a full inspection. Using the Zerk fitting will not catch failed caps or seals, nor will it tell you the condition of the bearings or brakes.
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Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 6:20pm
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Our pod goes to the dealer tomorrow for having the risers installed. While there I am having them pack bearings and check brakes (and tires). I hate sitting on the side of the road with troubles.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: dsmiths
Date Posted: 03 May 2013 at 8:54pm
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I am guessing we have maybe 1000 miles on our pod since new. I pulled the rubber plugs and inspected the outer wheel bearing area, nothing but grease. I think it is wise to check but to repack wheel bearings every year is maybe unnecessary. Now if you are going across country and back, yes. Automobiles that have front wheel bearings that can be repacked such as a 1995 or so chevy pickup up truck the manufacture recommends every 30,000. miles. the wheel bearing loading on the pod is probably higher than passenger cars and needs to be checked periodically, if it makes you feel better to pack every year, it does no harm. ------------- Dane and Donna Smith 2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
Posted By: Rey
Date Posted: 24 May 2013 at 8:54am
| I have Lippert self adjusting brakes. I am replacing them with Dexter 10x2 manual adjusted brakes for the following reasons. They are impossible to get balanced braking, they do not share the braking equally. The brakes alternated from one side to the other with 2/3 one side and 1/3 on the other. There is possible drag on the side that got self adjusted last. They cause sway due to uneven braking. Check your wheels for the amount of brake and magnet residue on them after each trip, you may find one side has more than the other. That was my first indication that the brakes were not sharing equally. Take a temperature reading and compare the results. When they are adjusted manually, you are confident that there is no drag, and get better gas mileage. |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 24 May 2013 at 9:05am
Sorry to hear that. Why not just disable the self adjusting feature instead of replacing the whole thing? |
Posted By: Rey
Date Posted: 27 May 2013 at 8:12am
| I did not want them altered, the dealer replaced the self adjusting brakes with new back plate, shoes and magnets, no charge. I also replaced the knobby tires with smooth tread ones for better gas mileage. |
Posted By: ChuckB
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 5:08pm
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I was worried because my 2nd-hand 2014 RP-178 wouldn't lock up (skid) the trailer brakes at 20 MPH whenever I would try to adjust my integral GMC Sierra brake controller like the GMC book advised. I think that a lot of the aftermarket controllers advise the same (skidding) procedure for adjusting the controller. I suspected that the reason the RPOD wouldn't skid was perhaps that the RPOD brakes were not self-adjusting and needed adjustment (which brought me to this forum). I didn't inherit any literature from Forest River about the brakes, so I got the Dexter Axle serial number from the sticker on the axle and called Dexter's service contact number. They told me that my axle has Forward-Self-Adjusting brakes which automatically adjust for brake lining wear (without braking in reverse). (Coincidentally, the initials "FSA" were also typed on the axle sticker) Furthermore, they said that the brakes are designed not to skid and that Dexter wishes that the brake controller manufacturers would stop advising the 20 MPH skid procedure for brake controller adjustment. It sounds like you are left to your own devices find a comfortable brake controller setting with these kind of brakes. I have been setting my GMC controler at 6.0 (out of 10) and it seems to brake the trailer OK. But to be honest, I can't sense much difference when I vary the setting. I have made a habit of comparing (by feel) the temperature of my trailer brakes to my tow vehicle brakes. If the trailer brakes are hotter than the truck's, then I start backing-off the controller setting number until they both warm-up to about the same temperature. This is the best subjective measure that I've come up with to adjust my brake controller. I'm thinking of buying a temperature sensing gun to keep my hands clean and be a little more methodical/scientific.
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Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 5:55pm
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I'm not a believer in the lock up method. I find a parking lot and out TV in drive, then adjust controller to where the truck in idle does not pull the TT forward, the TT brake stops it when controller brake is applied. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 6:03pm
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+1 with Mike. ------------- Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |
Posted By: Subzilla
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 8:37am
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Chuck, I wondered the same thing...couldn't get the Pod brakes to lock up so were the brakes properly adjusted? So I started doing what Mike suggested and it seems all is well. On a separate issue I noticed, sometimes at a stop, the brakes feel like they stick when I begin to move forward again. Wonder if that has to do with the FSA. ------------- Mark Concord, NC 2017 RP 179 "Podzilla" 2011 Silverado 1500 4X4 |
Posted By: HARLEYULTRA
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 3:27pm
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Charlie
The Lippert brakes are self adjusting when you stop going forward. A car is adjusted when you go back and apply the brakes. This is per Lippert |
Posted By: Pod People
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 11:37pm
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We use a temperature sensing gun for wheel bearings and brakes and tires. I look for differences between each side within the category( right vs left). I think our tv brakes are usually a little warmer because they are discs instead of shoes. The pod tires are usually warmer because they are smaller diameter, thus more rpms. Bearings differences between the tv and trailer are also different- usually the pod is slightly hotter. Also the sunny side of bearings and tires will be warmer . The temp gun really allows specific comparisons and you learn the normal trends afterwe wrote them down during a trip. We checked them every time we stopped. The gun came from Harbor Freight and was reasonably priced Vann ------------- Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179 https://postimg.cc/0zwKrfB9"> 
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