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McLagman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery charging problem
    Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 11:48pm
If anyone has any insight on battery charging, please help!

I picked up my new R-Pod the other day, left the fridge on battery overnight, then the next day it was dead as a doornail. 

-- I left it hooked up to shore power overnight. When I checked it this morning, the batteries were still dead as a doornail (no charge at all).

-- While hooked up to shore power AND with the dead batteries, the lights and furnace would not work. However, the television, air conditionaer, microwave and fridge would work fine.

-- I hooked up the tow vehicle, cranked it, and with it hooked up, the lights, furnace and pump worked fine.

-- I let the tow vehicle run for about an hour and it charged the batteries up to where the indicator said 2/3 full.

-- I disconnected the tow vehicle but left the shore power connected (with the 2/3 battery charge). Everything seemed to be working fine, but after an hour or so of using the bathroom fan and a couple of lights and television, the indicator said it was down to 1/3 battery left. Is that normal?

So I think the tow vehicle will charge the battery, the AC appliances will work on shore power, but the inverter or shore power is not charging the battery or putting out DC (for the lights, furnace, etc.).

Does anyone know what might cause this or how to fix it? I checked the fuse box and it didn't appear that any fuses were blown. 

This is a brand new R-pod... I found this on my shakedown.

Also, the dealer where I bought the R-Pod is in another state. My local deal sells Forest Rivers, but not the R-pod line. Will the local dealer make warranty repairs or do I have to re-tow it back where I got it?

(I'm going to post this in the repairs thread too.)

Thanks for any help!

- Davis
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elko.mike View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 12:40am
Originally posted by McLagman

If anyone has any insight on battery charging, please help!

I picked up my new R-Pod the other day, left the fridge on battery overnight, then the next day it was dead as a doornail. 

-- I left it hooked up to shore power overnight. When I checked it this morning, the batteries were still dead as a doornail (no charge at all).

-- While hooked up to shore power AND with the dead batteries, the lights and furnace would not work. However, the television, air conditionaer, microwave and fridge would work fine.

-- I hooked up the tow vehicle, cranked it, and with it hooked up, the lights, furnace and pump worked fine.

-- I let the tow vehicle run for about an hour and it charged the batteries up to where the indicator said 2/3 full.

-- I disconnected the tow vehicle but left the shore power connected (with the 2/3 battery charge). Everything seemed to be working fine, but after an hour or so of using the bathroom fan and a couple of lights and television, the indicator said it was down to 1/3 battery left. Is that normal?

So I think the tow vehicle will charge the battery, the AC appliances will work on shore power, but the inverter or shore power is not charging the battery or putting out DC (for the lights, furnace, etc.).

Does anyone know what might cause this or how to fix it? I checked the fuse box and it didn't appear that any fuses were blown. 

This is a brand new R-pod... I found this on my shakedown.

Also, the dealer where I bought the R-Pod is in another state. My local deal sells Forest Rivers, but not the R-pod line. Will the local dealer make warranty repairs or do I have to re-tow it back where I got it?

(I'm going to post this in the repairs thread too.)

Thanks for any help!

- Davis

My pod is sitting in the driveway hooked up to the umbilical.  I unhooked the battery and checked the lights, which worked.  This is how I thought it should work.  When hooked to umbilical the 120v runs through an inverter, which provides 12v DC to run appliances and charge the battery.  This suggests that your pod may have a problem with the power conversion between 120 and 12 volts. 

Sounds like you've sorted out the distribution of 12v and 120v in the trailer.  So I've nothing to add there.

I too bought my pod in another state and have a local FR dealer who doesn't sell them.  I had a problem with the 120v when the pod was hooked to the umbilical.  The local FR dealer helped me on warranty.  I can't say for sure whether or not it is a policy, but I can say my local dealer did warranty work in a situation similar to yours.

Good luck sorting it out.
Mike, Linda & Doxies
2013 Hood River Edition r-pod 171
Tow Vehicles: 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 (Linda's) and a 2003 Dodge Dakota (Mike's fishing truck)
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this_is_nascar View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 7:59am
Sorry, I don't know the answer, but never run the frig on the battery.  That's the quickest way to drain the battery and destroy it if you continue to drain the battery below 50% or so.
"Ray & Connie"

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:01am
I answered some of your questions on the other thread you started on this.  I'll continue by saying that your local Forest River dealer can handle any warranty issues, especially for a generic part like the converter.  However, they are not obliged to help you.  Unlike car dealerships, camper dealerships aren't required to do work on campers they didn't sell.
 
To expand on what nascar said, you can use the fridge in 12 volt mode while you are going down the road - if and only if you have a properly sized +12 line run to the Bargman connector.  You can also use it when in camp if you have electric hookups but the AC mode will be more efficient since using it in DC mode puts the load on the converter.  However, if you are out of propane and the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) the DC mode will keep your food cold.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:23am
Originally posted by techntrek

... and the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) the DC mode will keep your food cold.


I'm at least one person with the AC mode problem.  A pin had burned on the female end of the umbilical cord.  I chased my electrical problem all day until I realized it was likely a problem with the cable.  I took the suspect cable to the local dealer, who hadn't sold me the trailer as I posted earlier.  They found (confirmed could be the right word) my cable problem and put a new end on it for me.

That's good to know about the warranty.  Hopefully I won't need it, but it is good to know.


Mike, Linda & Doxies
2013 Hood River Edition r-pod 171
Tow Vehicles: 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 (Linda's) and a 2003 Dodge Dakota (Mike's fishing truck)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:25am
Originally posted by techntrek

... the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) ... .

I had an AC problem recently, which turned out to be a burnt pin in the female end of the umbilical cord.  My local dealer (the trailer was purchased out of state as posted earlier) identified the burnt pin as the problem with the cable and fixed it for me.

It is good to know that they are under no obligations to perform warranty work.  Thanks for clarifying that.
Mike, Linda & Doxies
2013 Hood River Edition r-pod 171
Tow Vehicles: 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 (Linda's) and a 2003 Dodge Dakota (Mike's fishing truck)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 4:17pm
I see in this thread that the "converter" was called and "Inverter."  It is a technical point, but the converter in the r-pod is a DC power supplyand battery charger.  An Inverter is a device that takes DC power and turns it into an AC signal to run AC devices.  One can be put in an r-pod if running without AC power, but they consume far more current than they can supply.  There is no inverter supplied in a standard r-pod. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 4:35pm
One more follow-up. I have two batteries. They are wired as so: the cable coming from the R-Pod to the batteries has the white cable to the negative post and red cable to positive on battery 1, then a black cable from from positive on battery 2 to positive on battery 1, then a white cable from negative on battery 2 to negative on battery 1. Does that sound right?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 6:02pm
If I understqnd your post correctly you have two batteries with positive on battery one connected to positive on battery two, negative on battery one connected to negative on battery two.  The red to the positive terminals and the white to the negative termanals.  That is a parallel connection and will be right.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 9:08pm

I'm not following your description.  Parallel is correct, as Keith-N-Dar said.  The positives should be connected (+ to +) and negatives (- to -).  When black and white are used together black is positive and white is negative, this is due to color coding used by the NEC for AC wiring.

Then the positive (red) going to the pod should be connected to the positive terminal on one battery - and this is important for battery longevity - the negative (black) should be connected to the OTHER battery's negative terminal.  I won't go into details why, just trust me.  When black and red are used together black is negative and red is positive.  This is a carryover from automotive wiring.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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