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Topic ClosedBattery charging problem
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery charging problem
    Posted: 12 Jun 2012 at 5:39pm

Lots of real-world experience says otherwise.  That slight difference in resistance translates into a large difference under load and when charging, over time.  The battery closest to the load and charger - which would be the one the pod is directly connected to - will supply the most amps and then accept the most amps.

There is no measurable difference in resistance between 10 gauge wire and 14 gauge lamp cord (unless you use expensive equipment), but its there and is pronounced under load.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2012 at 3:57pm
While I would hook up two batteries in parallel and connect to the trailer just like this (less confusing to others and even to me), in the case of two batteries both connections could be connected to one battery.  Resistance in the lead (unless it is quite long) would not be measurable and with only two batteries no internal resistance comes into play.   
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2012 at 7:12am

This is how I connect 2 batteries.  Keep in mind Tech's comments on colors.   Here's an old post with some reference:
 
 
 
 
 
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 9:08pm

I'm not following your description.  Parallel is correct, as Keith-N-Dar said.  The positives should be connected (+ to +) and negatives (- to -).  When black and white are used together black is positive and white is negative, this is due to color coding used by the NEC for AC wiring.

Then the positive (red) going to the pod should be connected to the positive terminal on one battery - and this is important for battery longevity - the negative (black) should be connected to the OTHER battery's negative terminal.  I won't go into details why, just trust me.  When black and red are used together black is negative and red is positive.  This is a carryover from automotive wiring.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 6:02pm
If I understqnd your post correctly you have two batteries with positive on battery one connected to positive on battery two, negative on battery one connected to negative on battery two.  The red to the positive terminals and the white to the negative termanals.  That is a parallel connection and will be right.  
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Posts: 8 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 4:35pm
One more follow-up. I have two batteries. They are wired as so: the cable coming from the R-Pod to the batteries has the white cable to the negative post and red cable to positive on battery 1, then a black cable from from positive on battery 2 to positive on battery 1, then a white cable from negative on battery 2 to negative on battery 1. Does that sound right?
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 4:17pm
I see in this thread that the "converter" was called and "Inverter."  It is a technical point, but the converter in the r-pod is a DC power supplyand battery charger.  An Inverter is a device that takes DC power and turns it into an AC signal to run AC devices.  One can be put in an r-pod if running without AC power, but they consume far more current than they can supply.  There is no inverter supplied in a standard r-pod. 
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:25am
Originally posted by techntrek

... the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) ... .

I had an AC problem recently, which turned out to be a burnt pin in the female end of the umbilical cord.  My local dealer (the trailer was purchased out of state as posted earlier) identified the burnt pin as the problem with the cable and fixed it for me.

It is good to know that they are under no obligations to perform warranty work.  Thanks for clarifying that.
Mike, Linda & Doxies
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:23am
Originally posted by techntrek

... and the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) the DC mode will keep your food cold.


I'm at least one person with the AC mode problem.  A pin had burned on the female end of the umbilical cord.  I chased my electrical problem all day until I realized it was likely a problem with the cable.  I took the suspect cable to the local dealer, who hadn't sold me the trailer as I posted earlier.  They found (confirmed could be the right word) my cable problem and put a new end on it for me.

That's good to know about the warranty.  Hopefully I won't need it, but it is good to know.
Mike, Linda & Doxies
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:01am
I answered some of your questions on the other thread you started on this.  I'll continue by saying that your local Forest River dealer can handle any warranty issues, especially for a generic part like the converter.  However, they are not obliged to help you.  Unlike car dealerships, camper dealerships aren't required to do work on campers they didn't sell.
 
To expand on what nascar said, you can use the fridge in 12 volt mode while you are going down the road - if and only if you have a properly sized +12 line run to the Bargman connector.  You can also use it when in camp if you have electric hookups but the AC mode will be more efficient since using it in DC mode puts the load on the converter.  However, if you are out of propane and the AC mode isn't working for some reason (someone here recently had that problem) the DC mode will keep your food cold.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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