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Hodge-PODge View Drop Down
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Posts: 539 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Attention New, Current, & Prospective R-Pod Owners
    Posted: 26 Oct 2011 at 7:27pm
Dont' forget to check out the Walk-through videos for the R-Pod 177 that were previously posted by our very own forum member, PawPod.  He took video of his dealer Walkthrough so he would remember everything they told him, and he shared all that with us.  Click on the links below:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Diane
 
 
2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
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"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it."
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Posts: 1950 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2011 at 7:43pm
Cool!Star

Terry
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Posts: 35 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 4:10pm
Thanks for the RPOD new purchase initial run through videos by the dealer, Village RV, they were helpful. I am, however,  puzzled by the dealer's statement on video #2 that the AC will only run on 220V.  I thought the 13,500 BTU Dometic ran off 110V? If it requires 220, how would anyone ever run the AC off a portable generator? I ran our 2011 171 Air Conditioner off both house 110 and a Yamaha  2400is portable generator this summer with no problems. Am I missing something here (electricity has never been my strong point) or is this possibly a "Canada" thing?
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Posts: 866 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 5:07pm
That was worth seeing, I had a good walkthrough, but you forget things.  I like the part about taking out the batteries of the smoke/lp/co detectors. that is one great thing about this site, Podders helping each other and coming up with neat tips.
Dane and Donna Smith
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Posts: 134 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 7:46pm
Thanks for sharing that. Great to have for a refresher.
sjf
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 9:03pm
duck42 - yes, everything in the pod either operates from 120 volts AC or 12 volts DC.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 539 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by duck42

I am, however,  puzzled by the dealer's statement on video #2 that the AC will only run on 220V.  I thought the 13,500 BTU Dometic ran off 110V?
 
Hmmm - I never caught that.  The dealer was mistaken on that.  You were right.
2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
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Posts: 137 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2011 at 9:37am
Never caught that eather. Think maybe he was thinking wats to start it?
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Posts: 539 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2011 at 11:04pm
Hi Pawpod!  Hope you didn't mind me recycling your videos!  They sure have come in handy. 
For anyone else on the forum -- a couple of quick questions about winterization:
1)  In video 6 - under the sink near the floor behind the wooden panel - were those hoses for pumping antifreeze through the lines?  I'm confused - I've never tried to do that before and don't quite understand how that is done.
2)  And this question may seem ignorant but I'm going to ask it anyway.  Once the water heater is drained, the anode rod taped with teflon tape and replace, and the valves to the hot water tank turned opposite to normal operation, how come rv antifreeze cannot be poured into the potable water tank and pumped through all the water lines by turning on the water pump and opening all the faucets?  The potable water tank is going to be drained and sanitized in the spring.  Just wondering - it seems like much less trouble to me.  But since no one has recommended that, is it not safe, or is it not efficient, or is it not possible to do it that way?
 
Diane
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2011 at 7:46am
Originally posted by Hodge-PODge

Hi Pawpod!  Hope you didn't mind me recycling your videos!  They sure have come in handy. 
For anyone else on the forum -- a couple of quick questions about winterization:
1)  In video 6 - under the sink near the floor behind the wooden panel - were those hoses for pumping antifreeze through the lines?  I'm confused - I've never tried to do that before and don't quite understand how that is done. 
Without looking at the videos again,  yes, that is what this arrragement is for.  There should be a valve(s) to turn which would turn "off" the supply from the water tank and turn "on" a hose (not connected to anything) which one places in a jug or bucket of the pink antifreeze.
2)  And this question may seem ignorant but I'm going to ask it anyway.  Once the water heater is drained, the anode rod taped with teflon tape and replace, and the valves to the hot water tank turned opposite to normal operation, how come rv antifreeze cannot be poured into the potable water tank and pumped through all the water lines by turning on the water pump and opening all the faucets?  The potable water tank is going to be drained and sanitized in the spring.  Just wondering - it seems like much less trouble to me.  But since no one has recommended that, is it not safe, or is it not efficient, or is it not possible to do it that way? This could be done but, you would likely use a lot of antifreeze and need to flush your fresh water tank really well when de-winterizing.  Some can do the job on one gallon of antifreeze.  I splurge and use two.  I first blow out the lines with compressed air and then pump the pink stuff through everything; sink, shower, toilet, outside spray hose, etc.  Pumping the pink stuff directly from the jug insures that it remains undiluted by water and keeps consumption to the minimum.
 
Diane
 
I hope this helps.
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