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Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Evansville IN
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Attention New, Current, & Prospective R-Pod Owners
    Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 2:40pm
Thank you for reposting the videos. Rural King has a sale on RV Anti-Freeze this week $2.88/gal
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 6:46am
If you have not already done so, I have found it at AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts and Lowes.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2011 at 10:43pm
Originally posted by techntrek

David is correct, you'll use far less antifreeze using the special hose inside than dumping it into the fresh water tank. Just be sure to drain the fresh water tank and then turn on the water pump to get the remaining water out of the line between the tank and pump. Look for the Winterization thread for full instructions...
 
Wouldn't you know it -- our local WalMart does not have ONE single jug of RV antifreeze left! Ouch
2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
2011 Mercedes ML350
"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it."

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2011 at 9:47pm
I posted the video's for myself and for other podder, future and present. Nice to see them being viewed!
Ready to pod around!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2011 at 8:53am
David is correct, you'll use far less antifreeze using the special hose inside than dumping it into the fresh water tank. Just be sure to drain the fresh water tank and then turn on the water pump to get the remaining water out of the line between the tank and pump. Look for the Winterization thread for full instructions...
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2011 at 7:46am
Originally posted by Hodge-PODge

Hi Pawpod!  Hope you didn't mind me recycling your videos!  They sure have come in handy. 
For anyone else on the forum -- a couple of quick questions about winterization:
1)  In video 6 - under the sink near the floor behind the wooden panel - were those hoses for pumping antifreeze through the lines?  I'm confused - I've never tried to do that before and don't quite understand how that is done. 
Without looking at the videos again,  yes, that is what this arrragement is for.  There should be a valve(s) to turn which would turn "off" the supply from the water tank and turn "on" a hose (not connected to anything) which one places in a jug or bucket of the pink antifreeze.
2)  And this question may seem ignorant but I'm going to ask it anyway.  Once the water heater is drained, the anode rod taped with teflon tape and replace, and the valves to the hot water tank turned opposite to normal operation, how come rv antifreeze cannot be poured into the potable water tank and pumped through all the water lines by turning on the water pump and opening all the faucets?  The potable water tank is going to be drained and sanitized in the spring.  Just wondering - it seems like much less trouble to me.  But since no one has recommended that, is it not safe, or is it not efficient, or is it not possible to do it that way? This could be done but, you would likely use a lot of antifreeze and need to flush your fresh water tank really well when de-winterizing.  Some can do the job on one gallon of antifreeze.  I splurge and use two.  I first blow out the lines with compressed air and then pump the pink stuff through everything; sink, shower, toilet, outside spray hose, etc.  Pumping the pink stuff directly from the jug insures that it remains undiluted by water and keeps consumption to the minimum.
 
Diane
 
I hope this helps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2011 at 11:04pm
Hi Pawpod!  Hope you didn't mind me recycling your videos!  They sure have come in handy. 
For anyone else on the forum -- a couple of quick questions about winterization:
1)  In video 6 - under the sink near the floor behind the wooden panel - were those hoses for pumping antifreeze through the lines?  I'm confused - I've never tried to do that before and don't quite understand how that is done.
2)  And this question may seem ignorant but I'm going to ask it anyway.  Once the water heater is drained, the anode rod taped with teflon tape and replace, and the valves to the hot water tank turned opposite to normal operation, how come rv antifreeze cannot be poured into the potable water tank and pumped through all the water lines by turning on the water pump and opening all the faucets?  The potable water tank is going to be drained and sanitized in the spring.  Just wondering - it seems like much less trouble to me.  But since no one has recommended that, is it not safe, or is it not efficient, or is it not possible to do it that way?
 
Diane
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2011 Mercedes ML350
"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it."

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2011 at 9:37am
Never caught that eather. Think maybe he was thinking wats to start it?
Ready to pod around!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by duck42

I am, however,  puzzled by the dealer's statement on video #2 that the AC will only run on 220V.  I thought the 13,500 BTU Dometic ran off 110V?
 
Hmmm - I never caught that.  The dealer was mistaken on that.  You were right.
2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
2011 Mercedes ML350
"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it."

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2011 at 9:03pm
duck42 - yes, everything in the pod either operates from 120 volts AC or 12 volts DC.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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