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Topic ClosedHeater power

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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Heater power
    Posted: 07 Aug 2011 at 6:24pm
Question...

Does anyone know if the power wires to the heater motor have 12v all the time? I am guessing so, but thought I would ask.. We are going to add a couple 12v receptacles, 1 I will add in the front street side dinette bench, right next to the 120v outlet, and put it on a stand alone circuit from the fuse box, 2 circuit positions are available. Rather than pulling a wire to the back of the trailer, I thought to tap into the power line for the heater fan.. if it's energized full time.

Just wondering if someone knows or has done such a thing.. We use the living daylights out of her iPhone and speakers for music.. and of course we want to be able to take advantage of that dual battery mod we did this week..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2011 at 7:17pm
The furnace does run on 12v.  Even if you don't have hookups.  So, yes there is 12v all the time.

Terry
RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4
Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565
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Chuck View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 8:08am
furpod (or anyone else that can comment), You mentioned the "dual battery mod" that you did. Did you include a switch between them? I have 2 batteries and it's a pain to disconnect and reconnect each time I want to switch. I sure would like to put in a switch but know nothing about what to use or the challenges of that kind of install.
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 9:25am
Nope, no switch. I do intend to add a disconnect switch  to turn them off completely. They are wired together.. as far as the system knows, it is just one large battery..

My theory on batteries says that I want them to charge and discharge together. My batteries are both from the same lot number, came off the same pallet at my dealers..

If you are going to put some kind of switch between them, like a dual propane set up has, then you would have to keep them isolated, and switch back and forth for charging also.. some thing I see no need for. I know back in the day, isolating the coach battery from the house battery was a big deal the manufacturers hadn't thought of.. other than that, I can't really see what the benefit of "selectability" is in a TT..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 9:53am
How do you wire them together? Is there any trick/risk to doing it?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 10:53am
I'll throw in my $.02
 
 
Here is my disconnect switch
 
 
There are several suppliers of switches.  You only need one.  In addition, you'll need 2 short battery cables, which can be purchased at Walmart, AutoZone, etc.
 
If you would like a picture of my dual set up - I'll take one for you.
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Chuck View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2011 at 2:06pm
Originally posted by David

I'll throw in my $.02
[
If you would like a picture of my dual set up - I'll take one for you.


I'd love a pic if it's not too much trouble. Thanks
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2011 at 5:05pm
Originally posted by Chuck


I'd love a pic if it's not too much trouble. Thanks


Hopefully, someone will show you the right way.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2011 at 4:48pm
furpod, take a look at David's first link, above.  They way you have yours wired, over time you will stress the battery that is directly attached to the 'pod's battery terminals.  Its an easy solution, just move the positive battery cable from the battery on the right (in your middle picture) to the battery on the left.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2011 at 3:43pm
In what way do you believe it to be stressed?


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