Running Fridge on Battery in Transit |
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g4royce
Senior Member Joined: 20 Nov 2010 Location: PortStLucie FL Online Status: Offline Posts: 335 |
Topic: Running Fridge on Battery in Transit Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 1:47pm |
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When we first got our trailer the dealer told me that the most efficient way to run the fridge while in transit was propane. We've had problems with the fridge in propane mode and have been using it in battery mode in transit instead lately. My tow vehicle is not very powerful and towing in the heat of summer is straining my engine. What I'd like to know is does anyone know if running the fridge on battery increases the strain on my engine significantly? Thanks.
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ChaiPod
2009 RP152 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 1:57pm | ||
Doubtful.. I have not yet checked to see what the drain/load would be, but the charging system usually doesn't draw a lot of engine power anyways...
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TerryM
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 16 Nov 2009 Location: Saint Augustine Online Status: Offline Posts: 1950 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 7:55pm | ||
There are people, including myself, that say you should never use LP while on the road. The reason is that in an accident you would have an open gas line. BOOM! It would be better to get the fridge cold before you leave and put it on 12v.
Terry |
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RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4
Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
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Hodge-PODge
Senior Member Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Location: Calhoun, GA Online Status: Offline Posts: 539 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 8:46pm | ||
Hey Terry, that's not what Tech said a couple of weeks ago. Here is his post and a link to it. I respect BOTH your opinions. Any chance of mutual consensus on this topic? Or will you just agree to disagree? I value what you both say.
Diane
Link to Post:
Tech's comments to me:
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2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
2011 Mercedes ML350 "A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it." |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 9:59pm | ||
Even on other big camping forums this is one of those subjects where nobody can agree. The heating element in 12 volt mode is usually around 120-150 watts. One horsepower is 745 watts, so it isn't much of a load on the engine. What you do need to worry about is if the wiring coming from the battery to the Bargeman connector is big enough. The +12 line and the negative line need to be at least 10 gauge wire, even 8 would be better. That ensures there isn't much of a voltage drop when you have the fridge in 12 volt mode and the battery is charging (and the lights are on, etc). |
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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secretbard
Senior Member Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Location: Budd Lake, NJ Online Status: Offline Posts: 195 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 3:52am | ||
I might get yelled at for this, but I suggest only short trips for the 12v battery powered refrigerator mode. The reason being that I have personally had my battery quickly drain while boondocking for 2 nights with the refrigerator in battery power mode. Now this might be solved with a heavier gage wire as was previously suggested, I don't know. I personally prefer the propane power mode for the refrigerator as the propane usage seems minimal and it gets the job done. I know others will disagree with the use of propane, but I really do prefer it.
I prefer propane if not plugged in that is...
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2010 Rpod 172 :)
2004 Chevy Trailblazer |
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TerryM
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 16 Nov 2009 Location: Saint Augustine Online Status: Offline Posts: 1950 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 7:50am | ||
Hodge-PODge: I will stick with my statement. Lets say you had an accident. Under normal conditions there would not be a fire in the camper. If your gas line was turned on and broken there would be free flowing LP gas in the camper. It could accumulate in the camper. One spark is all that is needed. I have seen pictures of campers that caught fire. They go up pretty fast. No matter how safe the tank is on LP, the weak link is the gas line. A line putting out gas.
In the not too distant past all the fridges were LP/110v/12v. A lot of people had problems with the wind blowing out the burner when driving. The 12v setting of course didn't have that problem. The manufactures fixed the blow out problem. So because there isn't that problem any longer they are making 110v/LP ones. Than is fine and good I guess. Except for one thing...a broken gas line. My point is this: IF you have the option of keeping your fridge cool in a safer manor, why not do it? Terry |
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RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4
Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
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Iteach5th
Senior Member Joined: 25 Nov 2010 Location: Floral Park, NY Online Status: Offline Posts: 109 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 7:58am | ||
I just traveled 6500 miles over 25 days. I always traveled in battery mode. When I would be parked for a while, sightseeing, I would switch over to propane mode. Hooked up at campgrounds it would be plugged in. Only problem I had is when it reached 98 degrees outside and I put stuff in after stopping at a store, frost built up on the interior coils,( slats) once I scraped the frost away it worked like a charm.
Travel on battery mode, much safer, I agree.
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"Whether you think you can or think you can't, either way you are right"- Henry Ford
2011 RP-177 2009 Jeep Cherokee 1982 Coleman Redwood pup |
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Hodge-PODge
Senior Member Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Location: Calhoun, GA Online Status: Offline Posts: 539 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 10:22am | ||
Terry, I guess it would be better to be safe than sorry. I appreciate your explanation of why, too. Thanks!
Diane
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2011 RP 177, the Hodge-PODge
2011 Mercedes ML350 "A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it." |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 9:09pm | ||
One of the safety features the new tanks have is a high-flow cutoff. If you get into an accident and a line is cut, the flow will be cut off at the tank. You can test this by turning off the tank and then lighting the stove until it goes out (to empty the lines). Then turn the tank back on quickly and you won't be able to light the stove. This is why you must open the tank valve slowly, older tanks could be opened quickly w/o a problem.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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