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creating an instruction & maintenance manual

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techntrek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: creating an instruction & maintenance manual
    Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:57am
Appliance energy useage 
 
 
These numbers can be useful when you are plugged into a 20 amp outlet, or even a 30 amp outlet.  Wattage equals volts times amps, so you need to keep your total useage below 2400 watts on a 20 amp outlet and 3600 watts on a 30 amp outlet.  So for instance if you are on a 20 amp outlet you would be pushing it to have your water heater electric element on along with the A/C, plus a few lights, and the baseline amount that the converter uses at all times.
 
First number is Wh, the second is VA.
 
- Converter only, battery fully charged: no measurement (so something less than 100 watts)
- A/C, fan and compressor running: 1000/1100
- Water heater, electric element: 1300/1300
- Fridge, in AC mode: 200/200
- Microwave: 1700/1800
- Every light on: 200/400
- Exhaust fan, low: no measurement
- Exhaust fan, medium: 100/100
- Exhaust fan, high: 100/100
- Water pump: 100/200
 
I forgot to measure the microwave's convection mode, and while I measured the A/C with the fan only I forgot to write it down.  I didn't try to measure the television since it is probably less than 30 watts.  Obviously the lack of accuracy prevented good numbers on the exhaust fan - someone found the factory-claimed amps for the 3 settings a while ago.  Some things are running through the converter (lights, fan, pump) so there are conversion losses as part of the numbers.

Edited 9/5/12 to add this link, with much more accurate amp readings @ 12 volts.  http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2898&title=electrical-current-draw

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 11:20am
Winterization 

 


Updated 10/19/2015 at the suggestion of Q7-retired, a few steps have been reversed 

1) Open both low-point drains underneath the camper. These usually hang down along the left edge under the floor. You will need two crescent wrenches, or equivalent - one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lower nut.

2) Open the hot and cold valves on the kitchen sink, then remove the anode rod plug on the hot water heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure. Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years). The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it with antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the water heater tank. If you don't need to inspect your anode rod you can pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater to speed up the draining process (some people do not recommend doing this due to a fear of damaging it, but others do it all the time w/o a problem). Insert the anode rod, using a layer of teflon tape on the threads.

3) Turn all 3 bypass valves on the hot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back of the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where the water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lines will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open).

4) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection. This has an air inlet on one end like the Schrader valves on your tires, and threads to attach to the water connection. Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs. Apply LOW pressure air (less than 20 psi) until the low-point drains stop sputtering. Close the low-point drains finger-tight.

5) Open each valve inside the camper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it. Don't forget the toilet and shower. Remove the blow-out plug. If your camper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to this connection for several seconds using the blow-out plug.

6) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the water pump (on the 171 its the same location as the water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. A few model years did not include this at all, later models don't have the valve and you must remove the intake hose to attach the antifreeze pick-up hose. If you don't have one you can buy the pick-up hose from any dealer. Flip the valve and put the loose end into your jug of PINK RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE ORANGE OR GREEN AUTO ANTIFREEZE). The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreeze instead of your fresh water tank.

7) Turn on the switch for the water pump.

8) Turn on the taps at the sink and in the shower, one at a time. Let each run until the water is the color of your antifreeze (pink), then close it.

9) Run the toilet until the water is pink. Flush what comes out at first, but leave some of the pure antifreeze in the bowl for the winter.

10) Open the low-point drains again, let them run until you see pink. Close them tightly.

11) Pull the hose out of the antifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any more antifreeze. Turn on the sink again for a second or two until the antifreeze is out of the intake line. This keeps the sticky antifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intake completely out of the bottle.

12) Close the valve near the water pump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off the power for the water pump.

13) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it to empty.

14) Pour some RV antifreeze into the shower and sink drains to fill the water traps.

15) Make sure the black and gray waste water tanks are empty. The last dump of the season fill both tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once.

16) Set the fridge's door latch so it stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, you can slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays open enough to prevent mold from growing. Or just hang a hand towl over the door so it won't close.

17) Open the lower fridge vent and look for the white drip cup. It can be removed by pulling it towards you. Empty and replace. (thanks to Marwayne for that tip)

18) Remove the 9 volt batteries from the smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery is disconnected. (thanks to dsmiths for that tip)
 

Edit:  adding a link here to a video kymooses created on this process:  http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4136
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 3:14pm

Water heater 

This is just a stub.  Info needs to be gathered from the link above, plus we should talk about making sure its filled at the start of every trip, how to use the electric element, how to use the propane burner, using both together, info on the anode rod, etc.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 3:18pm

Battery maintenance 

This is just a stub.  Info needs to be gathered from the links above, plus we should talk about charging before each trip, charging after each trip, charging once a month, charging over the winter, staying above 30% SOC, charging modes, water level, etc.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote marshwatcher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2011 at 10:14am
How about a departure and arrival POD CHECK LIST? I have pirated one from a couple of sources in the forum and added specifics to suit what we have on our POD to create one for us. I find it really helpful as a newbie. I don't remember who provided the basis for the list but THANKS!

RPOD CHECK LIST

     ARRIVAL
find a good spot, line up door and power source
complete 1st side to side level check
raise trailer/hitch w/ tongue jack & lower hitch
release coupler and then lock with coupler lock
raise trailer/place lynx pad and lower—complete 2nd side to side level check
disconnect chains & electric
level trailer w/ tongue jack (front to rear level)
set trailer stabilizers installing lynx pads; Re-check level
open propane line
test shore power with volt meter
install surge protector and lock
connect shore power to trailer
disinfect water supply with bleach solution, install pressure regulator and connect
slide steps out and door handrail
slide slide out--out
turn TV booster on
check all faucets by turning on/clearing lines of air
be sure hot water tank is filled & then turn on hot water heater (remove screens)
set refrigerator to correct power source
open bathroom vent

       DEPARTURE
empty fresh water tank if needed
check that black & grey water caps are closed & secured
disconnect shore power & remove SURGE PROTECTOR; stow away
turn off hot water heater/replace screens
disconnect and stow water hoses, connectors, PRESSURE REGULATOR
turn off propane tank (put refrigerator on battery if desired)
close bathroom door & fan vent
turn TV booster off
shades down and locked
loose items stowed (black table especially)
place tongue weight on tongue jack
connect chains & electric (walk around lights check)
raise stabilizer jacks, stow lynx pads
un-chock wheels
check doors and locks
slide in steps & close door handle
CHECK CAMPSITE FOR ANY LEFT BEHIND ITEMS
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 2:57pm
Thanks, I'll add a link to your post in the list in post #1.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote sanjerga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2011 at 11:56am

I don't recall getting an instruction manual for my Sunbeam Convection Microwave.  Going camping for a week at Myrtle Beach SC and thought it would be nice to be able to operate the oven part instead of boiling water!

Happy Trails!
Jerry & Sandy and an 8 lb Maltese dog
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rpodcamper.com Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2011 at 4:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote beargoodtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2011 at 1:34pm
Dont forget about the "T" models. I have just purchased a new one that was a 2010 model. The dealer showed me how to deploy the tent area but when I got it home I noticed the tent was ripped a little on the lower left hand side. The velcro was not holding as well. I think you are suppose to loosen it from the velcro before folding it up to prevent undo strain on the fabric of the tent, but I cannot find anything that make that statement true. Maybe someone that has a "T" model can help on this. I am planing to call Forest River Monday and the dealer to see what they say....
Bear
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bill-GA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 10:19pm

This is a Great guide for a newbie like me.  I just purchased a 2010 176T from a private party and these lists are wonderful to follow.  But I have a some additional questions:

1. I've read where some folks like to sanitize or clean their fresh water system with baking soda by adding a gallon of 'mix' into the clean water system.  How would I do this on the RPOD?
 
2. I've noticed a musty oder Dead and I believe it's coming from the AC unit.   I've used a special 'musty AC' spray on my older cars and I'm thinking I can to the same by taking off the AC cover on top (3 screws?).  Are there any do's / don't about the AC I should know?
 
Many thanks for any advise Smile
 
Bill
 
'10 Forest River R-pod 176T  
'11 Toyota Tundra w/TOW & HAUL switch (tows great) 
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