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siscol View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: hot water heater
    Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 8:33pm
I'm a newbie! Just purchased a  2011-177. Have really learned alot thru the forum. So thank you all. The manual given to me is rather lacking in specifics to rpods.  I located the hot water heater under the bed. The pod was winterized by the dealer. There is no open ended  hose that I can find that would be the antifreeze line. When time to winterize do I disconnect somewhere to run the antifreeze thru? Also, the valves seem to be left opposite of what I've read. The hot and cold water lines have the valves horizontal or running the same way as the line. The other valve, located at a junction of a hot and cold line is perpendicular to that line. As is, when I flush the lines do I leave them as is until antifreeze cleared?
One other question( at the moment): From the outside, is the anode located behind that hexagonal head? Do I have to remove this everytime I want to drain the heater? or is there another way?
Appreciate all info I can get!
Leslyn
2011 rpod 177, 2010 toyota 4 runner
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:09pm

Welcome!  Yes, unfortunately the manual is basically useless.  The best thing you can do is camp in Camp Driveway one night and start making a list of all questions and things that you discover you need.  The antifreeze intake line will be near the water pump, so one way to find it is to put some water in the fresh water tank (look for the big white cap about waist-height on the outside, your hose will just lay inside the opening), turn on the water pump (red switch inside), and open a faucet to start the pump.

To flush the lines of antifreeze you want to keep the water heater out of the circuit, so the valves should be opposite of what you describe.  The ones on the hot/cold lines should be perpendicular (closed) to the lines, and the one on the line between them should be parallel (open).  Hook your hose up to the city water connection (your hose will thread into this connection), and open every faucet including the toilet flush mechanism until it runs clear.  Once you are done, switch every valve behind the water heater to allow water into the water heater.  Then open the hot water faucet on the sink until it stops spitting air, which lets you know the water heater is full.  Do NOT start the water heater until you do that or you will damage the water heater.

You can leave the water heater filled over the summer.  If you feel you must drain it you can just open the low-point drain valves (located underneath the 'pod) and then open the pressure relief valve on the water heater (near the top, pull the short handle) to break the vacuum.  It will take a while to fully drain.  You can remove the hex head to drain it, but if you do put it back in to prevent rust on the threads - don't leave it out over the winter.  The anode is located behind that as you asked.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by siscol

There is no open ended  hose that I can find that would be the antifreeze line.

You'll find the antifreeze feed line on the intake side of your water pump.


Also, the valves seem to be left opposite of what I've read. The hot and cold water lines have the valves horizontal or running the same way as the line. The other valve, located at a junction of a hot and cold line is perpendicular to that line.

You're right - the valves are set backwards for winterization.  There's nothing wrong with that, it just means that your water heater was filled with antifreeze too.  Leave the valves as is and flush out the lines (and your water heater).  Next fall, make sure to switch the valves over before dewinterizing and emptying the water heater.

I was told by a service advisor to avoid manually using the pressure relief valve as, after several uses, it may not seat correctly when you close it again and it may leak.


Do I have to remove this everytime I want to drain the heater? or is there another way?

Removing the anode is the best way to empty the water heater.  But frankly, its easiest to leave your plumbing pressurized all year as opposed to draining every time you leave the campground; its about 7 gallons of water in total.  You may want to install a valve on your fresh water tank tho, to make draining much easier.


The manual given to me is rather lacking in specifics to rpods

The manual can be quite useful, even if it doesn't describe specific steps for your trailer.  Keep it and then give it another read come fall.
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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:33pm
Thanks for this information. I have spent time in Camp Driveway and that has helped alot. Made sure all electric and gas appliances work. We will be making our maiden voyage over Easter weekend. Unfortunately will not be dewinterizing before that as Colorado still has freezing temps. So will not be able to use water or toiletCry. Then will be out of country for a few weeks. When we get back will be sure to make another trip out very soon and will let uou know how all went.  By the way, how cold is really too cold to dewinterize? Anything under freezing? Thanks again!
Leslyn
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:43pm
Thanks for your info. I will flush it out when freezing temps have stopped out here.
I read somewhere that is was good to empty the hot water heater after every trip but by the sounds of things it is not necessary and will do so only when winterizing.
I did get alot of useful info from the manual but was hoping it was more specific to the pod.( Being totally new with rv'ing.) Had to really talk my husband into this as he is still perfectly fine sleeping on the ground.
Great info. Thanks again!
Leslyn
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:18am
I've heard some people give warnings against using the pressure relief valve to help empty the hot water tank, but I've also heard of others that have actually used it on a regular basis without a problem, myself included.  While I've only used it at the end of each season on the 'pod, on our popup I used it after each trip (the camper was heavier so I felt better removing the extra ~50 pounds, plus it had drain valves on the low point drains so it was easier to do).  So I guess do it at your own discretion.
 
You don't want to de-winterize until the weather forcast for your area regularly stays above freezing.  An occasional night back down below freezing for a few hours is fine, don't worry about that.  In the fall you want to be sure to winterize before you are regularly below freezing, but again a few hours here and there is fine.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 2:33pm
Good to know. I dont want any problems with freezing lines so will definitely wait.
Leslyn
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