2016 R-179 Slide Totally Dead |
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Blue Highways
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 20 Sep 2016 Location: NC mountains Online Status: Offline Posts: 84 |
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Topic: 2016 R-179 Slide Totally Dead Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 9:23am |
First, thanks Stephen H. for your great visuals of the controller box & always trusty tech help. We had our slider go out 18 months ago, and I’ll tell you our experience: first thing I did is use my smartphone to video the specific error blink-pattern that the controller flashed upon the failure of our slider to push out. I also set the phone on slo-mo to record the pattern that way since the error blink pattern flashes such a quick pattern. That info went to our trusted RV repair shop. The result was that one of the little upper (horizontally-mounted) slider motors had corroded with moisture over time - it was basically barely turning the gear in the L worm track. The other side motor was just about worn out and weak but not corroded. The dealer ordered them in and did the somewhat labor-intensive job of replacing both of the quite-buried drive motors. Unfortunately it was close to $1k for the whole operation but comforting we can go on a long trek with virtually new slider drive motors. Since we live in Western NC mountains there are heavy rain downpour days during a storage summer, and we think eventually moisture intrusion and rust got in behind the rubber gasket and deteriorated the cylindrical slider drive motors. To protect our investment we upgraded our off-season Rpod storage to a slot with an aluminum roofed shelter. We can now skip “stressing out” for a long time about any slider functional issues on a long camping excursion. And, should we ever decide to sell & upgrade, (no current plans) the documentation of new slider drive motors would be a big plus in selling the unit. (‘17 Hood River 179). Hope this helps & sorry about facing this “possibly” 1k maintenance repair. Hope your actual repair is far less!
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Colt
Senior Member Joined: 16 Nov 2019 Online Status: Offline Posts: 383 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jul 2022 at 9:57pm |
My slide would not go out after arriving at my destination. The problem was a wire had bounced off in transit. I photo'ed it with my phone and after staring at the pic, finally realized the red wire was off. It's always the red wire! Never cut the green wire!
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John
'16 R-Pod 180 |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 12:57am |
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Don Habibi
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 12:58am |
Sorry it posted before I could type in. So assuming your controller was accessible since with the 179 the controller is in the ottoman and not accessible when the slide is in.
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Don Habibi
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JR
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2018 Location: Manistee, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 344 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 8:00am |
I have a 2019 179 and the slide controller is mounted under the fridge behind a wooden sight screen held in place by 3 screws. Meaning that the controller is accessible whether the slide is extended or retracted. Hope this helps
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Jay
179/2019 |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 10:56am |
My controller is mounted in the ottoman and it is even facing the floor of the unit so I can not see the codes being flashed no access to the manual button either. Bought two harnesses going to try to power the motors directly and put the slide out so I can open the ottoman and I will then try to remount the controller assuming wires can be manipulated, if not will create a hatch into the ottoman. Very stupid issue to be having, I put a scope into the ottoman and can see the controller upside down, hate to have to tear into the ottoman, we will see how it goes, may be later today, have couple of things to do today but harnesses just arrived. Motors accessible but screw which holds them in place are covered by the slide on the outside so I can not even take the motors out to push the slide out manually. Saga continues. Dealing with the slide floor sag too, fabric of the ottoman already damaged from some rub. Removed the plastic lip on the side so that it will not tear the fabric any more. Ordered the supports waiting on them. Have not been able to get a hold of parts for a week now, need slider for the screen door, 10' tall only which is not standard at all, somebody lost it trying to replace. If you have any ideas on it let me know, trying to cut a 12' one down to size but don't know if there is enough material yet.
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Don Habibi
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 12:53pm |
Update: I finished making harnesses going to the two motors and put the slide out and got to the storage in the ottoman. The power wire going to the controller had broken off and I have a feeling it might have zapped the controller by touching the negative. I moved the controller to the wall under the refrigerator and connected everything and slide only tries to move in one direction and code is motor 1 (one blink) and Power drop out (2 blinks). I believe my motors are good since they are working when I go to them directly, reversed the motor 1 and 2 wires to the controller and the controller keeps saying motor one power drop out, if there was wiring problem I would have expected the problem to move to motor 2 but the code does not change. Right now suspecting the controller which I know do not go bad that often but again if connector which broke and was hot touched the ground on the controller then I can see a zapping issue. Will do some more testing. Tempted to tap into the original motor wires and connect some wires to them so I can manually put the slide in and out bypassing the system but using original wires. It is easily doable. Putting the controller in manual mode does not let me move the slide.
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Don Habibi
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 2:22pm |
Thanks for the update. Good luck on getting it fixed.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2022 at 1:01pm |
Just another quick update, again with my external wire harness which I made I was able to put the slide out; with slide out and ottoman hatch accessible I tapped into the coaches wires going to the motors and attached a set of wires so I can go to a battery source (with original harness wire ends disconnected from the controller, don't want to put power into the controller from that end) and put the slide in and out manually using the R-Pods original wires which are on the motors. People were asking for emergency way of dealing with Lippert system, just wanted to share this since this is the only way to have an emergency way to put the slide in and out assuming the motors are working and at least the black and red wire of the harnesses are OK. This way I don't have to disconnect those wires from the motors and reconnect my other patch cord, so I did this for emergency if the controller goes bad again and need to put the slide in or out. Will put this wiring hardness under the refrigerator so it can be accessed. Other thing which I have notice; when the positive power wire to the controller broke off it must have touched the negative terminal below it and the wire end is a bit melted. Since no fuses were blown then obviously this line is not fused; so I am putting a 15 amp in line fuse on this line since my controller is fried due to the short. People were talking about fuse in the fuse panel but that fuse only takes care of the switch power not the heavy duty supply power which goes to the side of the controller, this line is not fused as far as I can tell since it is still powered even after shorting out. Still waiting on a new controller so things can go back to normal. My original controller is definitely bad. Bought a used controller if it works great otherwise will order a $350 new one, they are available just very pricey. If anybody has questions about the wiring I can help, just note that the wires going to the motors need to be reversed for one of them, one motor needs to turn one way and the other the other way in order for slide to go in and out. Assuming this makes sense. You need to power both motors at the same time so slide again works, by reversing the connection to the battery you can put the slide in and out so red and black don't mean positive and negative in this case. Don |
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Don Habibi
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2022 at 4:09pm |
I'm glad you got it figured out but sorry your controller got fried. Hopefully, you can get it positioned so that there is no stress on the wire that could cause that to happen again.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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