2016 R-179 Slide Totally Dead |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
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Topic: 2016 R-179 Slide Totally Dead Posted: 04 Aug 2022 at 2:36pm |
A very thick wire goes from the left side of the fuse panel to one end of this fuse and the wire that goes under the floor to the other side is going from the other side of the fuse to the controller. Silver fuse with 2 terminals screwed to the floor. I have replace with a 30 amp ATC fuse in the number 8 spot for now.
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Don Habibi
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 04 Aug 2022 at 2:24pm |
Hmmmm. I don't recall seeing such a fuse behind the power panel in our 2016 RP179. I'll have to look again the next time I have the power panel out.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 04 Aug 2022 at 11:26am |
OK my last update on this since I finally figure it all out and got everything working. So there is a large fuse, I am assuming 30-40 amps bolted to the floor of the RV behind the fuse panel by the door. So when the positive line on my controller broke off and shorted to the ground it damaged this fuse but did not burn it. I bought a controller (used) and it turned out to have problems (my luck, returned), my own controller turned out not to be burned, the code 2 it was giving me was not making sense since it was not moving from motor to motor when I was switching connectors. Any way I put my controller in the system and powered it with an independent battery locally and everything worked. The large wire from this fuse the controller is very thick (6 gauge or so) and obviously was not damaged so this fuse is not totally burned but is not allowing enough power to go to the controller. I disconnected wire from this fuse and used a 30 amp fuse on an empty spot on the regular fuse panel and wired everything and it works great. 25A blows when the slide gets to the end or all the way in since the motors are pulling more than 25 amp when limited, 30 amp fuse is working fine. At some point I might grab another large fuse and wire things the way they were but for now using regular fuse spot in number 8 which was empty is working fine. The board should be able to handle the 27 amps or so which is getting pulled by the motors when limited. I also made a relay system using two relays which would allow me to do without the controller all together for but now things are back to normal, I am keeping the relay system and the wire system which I made for going straight to the motors for emergency use. All done, hope all of this helps. To get to the fuse for the slide you have take out the whole fuse box assembly. |
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Don Habibi
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2022 at 4:09pm |
I'm glad you got it figured out but sorry your controller got fried. Hopefully, you can get it positioned so that there is no stress on the wire that could cause that to happen again.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 31 Jul 2022 at 1:01pm |
Just another quick update, again with my external wire harness which I made I was able to put the slide out; with slide out and ottoman hatch accessible I tapped into the coaches wires going to the motors and attached a set of wires so I can go to a battery source (with original harness wire ends disconnected from the controller, don't want to put power into the controller from that end) and put the slide in and out manually using the R-Pods original wires which are on the motors. People were asking for emergency way of dealing with Lippert system, just wanted to share this since this is the only way to have an emergency way to put the slide in and out assuming the motors are working and at least the black and red wire of the harnesses are OK. This way I don't have to disconnect those wires from the motors and reconnect my other patch cord, so I did this for emergency if the controller goes bad again and need to put the slide in or out. Will put this wiring hardness under the refrigerator so it can be accessed. Other thing which I have notice; when the positive power wire to the controller broke off it must have touched the negative terminal below it and the wire end is a bit melted. Since no fuses were blown then obviously this line is not fused; so I am putting a 15 amp in line fuse on this line since my controller is fried due to the short. People were talking about fuse in the fuse panel but that fuse only takes care of the switch power not the heavy duty supply power which goes to the side of the controller, this line is not fused as far as I can tell since it is still powered even after shorting out. Still waiting on a new controller so things can go back to normal. My original controller is definitely bad. Bought a used controller if it works great otherwise will order a $350 new one, they are available just very pricey. If anybody has questions about the wiring I can help, just note that the wires going to the motors need to be reversed for one of them, one motor needs to turn one way and the other the other way in order for slide to go in and out. Assuming this makes sense. You need to power both motors at the same time so slide again works, by reversing the connection to the battery you can put the slide in and out so red and black don't mean positive and negative in this case. Don |
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Don Habibi
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 2:22pm |
Thanks for the update. Good luck on getting it fixed.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 12:53pm |
Update: I finished making harnesses going to the two motors and put the slide out and got to the storage in the ottoman. The power wire going to the controller had broken off and I have a feeling it might have zapped the controller by touching the negative. I moved the controller to the wall under the refrigerator and connected everything and slide only tries to move in one direction and code is motor 1 (one blink) and Power drop out (2 blinks). I believe my motors are good since they are working when I go to them directly, reversed the motor 1 and 2 wires to the controller and the controller keeps saying motor one power drop out, if there was wiring problem I would have expected the problem to move to motor 2 but the code does not change. Right now suspecting the controller which I know do not go bad that often but again if connector which broke and was hot touched the ground on the controller then I can see a zapping issue. Will do some more testing. Tempted to tap into the original motor wires and connect some wires to them so I can manually put the slide in and out bypassing the system but using original wires. It is easily doable. Putting the controller in manual mode does not let me move the slide.
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Don Habibi
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 10:56am |
My controller is mounted in the ottoman and it is even facing the floor of the unit so I can not see the codes being flashed no access to the manual button either. Bought two harnesses going to try to power the motors directly and put the slide out so I can open the ottoman and I will then try to remount the controller assuming wires can be manipulated, if not will create a hatch into the ottoman. Very stupid issue to be having, I put a scope into the ottoman and can see the controller upside down, hate to have to tear into the ottoman, we will see how it goes, may be later today, have couple of things to do today but harnesses just arrived. Motors accessible but screw which holds them in place are covered by the slide on the outside so I can not even take the motors out to push the slide out manually. Saga continues. Dealing with the slide floor sag too, fabric of the ottoman already damaged from some rub. Removed the plastic lip on the side so that it will not tear the fabric any more. Ordered the supports waiting on them. Have not been able to get a hold of parts for a week now, need slider for the screen door, 10' tall only which is not standard at all, somebody lost it trying to replace. If you have any ideas on it let me know, trying to cut a 12' one down to size but don't know if there is enough material yet.
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Don Habibi
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JR
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2018 Location: Manistee, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 344 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 8:00am |
I have a 2019 179 and the slide controller is mounted under the fridge behind a wooden sight screen held in place by 3 screws. Meaning that the controller is accessible whether the slide is extended or retracted. Hope this helps
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Jay
179/2019 |
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DHabibi
Newbie Joined: 17 Jul 2022 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 12:58am |
Sorry it posted before I could type in. So assuming your controller was accessible since with the 179 the controller is in the ottoman and not accessible when the slide is in.
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Don Habibi
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