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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery charger - equalization
    Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:29pm
I recently purchased a set of Trojan T105s but dont have a charger for them yet.  Im trying to find a charger which will accommodate equalization mode.  I am having a hard time finding best approach to make sure they are charged and when needed i am able to perform EQ.  There is seemingly fine print on a lot of chargers out there on what they do.  What is suggested option?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:00pm
You do have a charger. It is in the converter and is programmed to properly charge flooded lead-acid batteries. The only time you would need a separate charger is if you remove the batteries during the winter. If you can leave them in and the RPod connected to shore power, the converter will maintain the batteries just fine. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:15pm
Unit is in unaccessible storage and batteries are stored in basement for winters.  That said, I will need to maintain the batteries each winter, so would like to get something which will last and treat the new batteries well - being able to charge and EQ.  I plan to plug to house line during season via dogbone or solar suitcase in the driveway.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:59pm
+1 to StephenH

What I have done here in northern Michigan is to use a simple 2 amp trickle charger.  Each battery is charged for 24-36 hours in early November and then sit in 'hibernation mode' (unhooked from charger) on a concrete floor in a unheated garage.  Just checked them a week ago and the voltmeter shows 12.82 and 12.65 volts.  I will give them another 2 amp trickle charge in early May before getting re-installed in the 177.  These batteries are 12v Interstate group size 24 deep cycles that will be 10 years old next month.  Pretty reliable.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 7:19am
CTU, I didn't find a requirement for equalization of my dual 6v's. Charging in series mode, like they are in the camper, does it fine. Of course this is when they are bought together, one old and one new will only produce according to th weaker of the two.

I am a proponent for the batteries to stay in use and go through C/D cycles. I use a 2a trickle charger and an array of LED lighting that's +/_ 1a to draw the battery a bit. I'd go about a week on the draw, charge back up (slowly), let it rest a week and start the process again.

My last set went me 18yrs. Watch your water levels, do mild draws not >50% (I typically draw only to 65-70%) and they will last.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 7:54am
The deep cycle Trojans use a slightly different chemistry than the automotive type batteries do so I agree they will benefit from occasional more aggressive charging than a simple trickle charger can provide.

What I’d suggest is to get an adjustable bench power supply and set the charge levels you want manually. That way you can follow Trojan’s recommendations. It’s also future proof because you can readjust for or any other manufacturer’s specs or battery types you might get later. Also cheaper than a charger that can do what you want. Most of the time you’ll be leaving it in float mode so it’s not like you’ll be fooling with the power supply settings all the time. Here’s an example (not recommending for or against this particular one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JC6XMZ2/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=L8zIOHEhbqCbVUVgPMt2rA&hsa_cr_id=3716483130001&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_scm_asin_1_title&pd_rd_w=OQh7K&pf_rd_p=75532ed1-af3f-4574-ad4f-acd8e0e7d89a&pd_rd_wg=C4B0u&pf_rd_r=XZVGMT5YDPK2NGS86DZ4&pd_rd_r=ca9747c2-a033-4be4-bb4b-f6003cecbe6e
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 9:10pm
I think equalization is less needed in batteries that move. The physical movement will help agitate the electrolyte. It is only when they sit for months at an end that it would become an issue. For example, a battery bank in a fixed solar installation. There is no physical agitation there (unless there is an earthquake).
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 12:14am
You shouldn't need to equalize the cells often, maybe annually. A simple, brutish charger can do it manually. My old 10A Schumacher will do it whether you want to or not.   
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 6:06am
Here is Trojan’s battery maintenance procedure for their flooded deep cycle batteries.

https://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/

They recommend equalization based on cell to cell specific gravity differences, which will typically be required somewhere between once a month and once a year. Equalization is performed at 2.7 volts per cell at 25C (temp compensated at -5mv per per cell per degree C) until cell sg’s stop rising.

How much of this procedure you do is up to you. But a hydrometer and bench power supply are inexpensive and can be used for other things. I wouldn’t use a crappy unregulated charger for anything, I’ve seen multiple sets of cooked batteries among my solar customers over the years. Not worth it.

I don’t buy the moving batteries don’t need equalization idea because that won’t do anything to change cell to cell sg’s. Automotive batteries don’t need as much aggressive charging as deep cycle batteries do because they use a different chemistry. That is the trade off, adding antimony to the plates in deep cycle batteries improves their tolerance to harsh cycling at the expense of more water consumption and more frequent equalization requirements.

Read this:


https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lead_based_batteries


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 1:22pm
After reading, contemplating...I think i would be in best shape to get a 'trickle charger' (NOCO Genius 10).  I would not leave in permanently to at least have some control over the battery.  This unit seems to charge 6V and 12V but does not EQ. To EQ, i would get a DC Power Supply unit for the few times a year i need to overcharge.  I dont have familiarity with these though so I am now wondering what is best option; Switch or linear, 30V10A, etc...
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