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Battery charger - equalization

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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14410
Printed Date: 30 May 2025 at 1:59am
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Topic: Battery charger - equalization
Posted By: Camp town usa
Subject: Battery charger - equalization
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:29pm
I recently purchased a set of Trojan T105s but dont have a charger for them yet.  Im trying to find a charger which will accommodate equalization mode.  I am having a hard time finding best approach to make sure they are charged and when needed i am able to perform EQ.  There is seemingly fine print on a lot of chargers out there on what they do.  What is suggested option?



Replies:
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:00pm
You do have a charger. It is in the converter and is programmed to properly charge flooded lead-acid batteries. The only time you would need a separate charger is if you remove the batteries during the winter. If you can leave them in and the RPod connected to shore power, the converter will maintain the batteries just fine. 

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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Camp town usa
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:15pm
Unit is in unaccessible storage and batteries are stored in basement for winters.  That said, I will need to maintain the batteries each winter, so would like to get something which will last and treat the new batteries well - being able to charge and EQ.  I plan to plug to house line during season via dogbone or solar suitcase in the driveway.


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:59pm
+1 to StephenH

What I have done here in northern Michigan is to use a simple 2 amp trickle charger.  Each battery is charged for 24-36 hours in early November and then sit in 'hibernation mode' (unhooked from charger) on a concrete floor in a unheated garage.  Just checked them a week ago and the voltmeter shows 12.82 and 12.65 volts.  I will give them another 2 amp trickle charge in early May before getting re-installed in the 177.  These batteries are 12v Interstate group size 24 deep cycles that will be 10 years old next month.  Pretty reliable.


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God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 7:19am
CTU, I didn't find a requirement for equalization of my dual 6v's. Charging in series mode, like they are in the camper, does it fine. Of course this is when they are bought together, one old and one new will only produce according to th weaker of the two.

I am a proponent for the batteries to stay in use and go through C/D cycles. I use a 2a trickle charger and an array of LED lighting that's +/_ 1a to draw the battery a bit. I'd go about a week on the draw, charge back up (slowly), let it rest a week and start the process again.

My last set went me 18yrs. Watch your water levels, do mild draws not >50% (I typically draw only to 65-70%) and they will last.

Safe Travels!


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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 7:54am
The deep cycle Trojans use a slightly different chemistry than the automotive type batteries do so I agree they will benefit from occasional more aggressive charging than a simple trickle charger can provide.

What I’d suggest is to get an adjustable bench power supply and set the charge levels you want manually. That way you can follow Trojan’s recommendations. It’s also future proof because you can readjust for or any other manufacturer’s specs or battery types you might get later. Also cheaper than a charger that can do what you want. Most of the time you’ll be leaving it in float mode so it’s not like you’ll be fooling with the power supply settings all the time. Here’s an example (not recommending for or against this particular one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JC6XMZ2/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=L8zIOHEhbqCbVUVgPMt2rA&hsa_cr_id=3716483130001&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_scm_asin_1_title&pd_rd_w=OQh7K&pf_rd_p=75532ed1-af3f-4574-ad4f-acd8e0e7d89a&pd_rd_wg=C4B0u&pf_rd_r=XZVGMT5YDPK2NGS86DZ4&pd_rd_r=ca9747c2-a033-4be4-bb4b-f6003cecbe6e

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 9:10pm
I think equalization is less needed in batteries that move. The physical movement will help agitate the electrolyte. It is only when they sit for months at an end that it would become an issue. For example, a battery bank in a fixed solar installation. There is no physical agitation there (unless there is an earthquake).

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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Colt
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 12:14am
You shouldn't need to equalize the cells often, maybe annually. A simple, brutish charger can do it manually. My old 10A Schumacher will do it whether you want to or not.   

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John
'16 R-Pod 180


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 6:06am
Here is Trojan’s battery maintenance procedure for their flooded deep cycle batteries.

https://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/

They recommend equalization based on cell to cell specific gravity differences, which will typically be required somewhere between once a month and once a year. Equalization is performed at 2.7 volts per cell at 25C (temp compensated at -5mv per per cell per degree C) until cell sg’s stop rising.

How much of this procedure you do is up to you. But a hydrometer and bench power supply are inexpensive and can be used for other things. I wouldn’t use a crappy unregulated charger for anything, I’ve seen multiple sets of cooked batteries among my solar customers over the years. Not worth it.

I don’t buy the moving batteries don’t need equalization idea because that won’t do anything to change cell to cell sg’s. Automotive batteries don’t need as much aggressive charging as deep cycle batteries do because they use a different chemistry. That is the trade off, adding antimony to the plates in deep cycle batteries improves their tolerance to harsh cycling at the expense of more water consumption and more frequent equalization requirements.

Read this:


https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lead_based_batteries




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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Camp town usa
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 1:22pm
After reading, contemplating...I think i would be in best shape to get a 'trickle charger' (NOCO Genius 10).  I would not leave in permanently to at least have some control over the battery.  This unit seems to charge 6V and 12V but does not EQ. To EQ, i would get a DC Power Supply unit for the few times a year i need to overcharge.  I dont have familiarity with these though so I am now wondering what is best option; Switch or linear, 30V10A, etc...


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 2:34pm
Up to you but you really don’t need both, the power supply can trickle charge just fine, just set it’s voltage at Trojan’s float voltage spec, 2.25 V/cell I think. Set the current limit on the power supply at 2A, voila, you have a regulated trickle charger that will maintain 13.5V and not exceed 2A. You are right that you don’t need to leave it on all the time but it won’t hurt anything if you did. Just keep an eye on the water level.

I think probably most anything reasonably priced you get these days will be switch mode, transistors being cheap and iron and copper being expensive and heavy.. Unless you have sensitive electronic gear next to the PS in your basement that should work fine for you.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 3:37pm
Or unless you are a ham operator. Some of those switching power supplies can be quite noisy in the RF spectrum.



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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 4:16pm
Exactly. Sensitive electronics. Of course, there is a switching PS in pretty much every piece of electronics in your house anyway, including all the compact battery chargers. Check the EMI specs on the PS if you’re concerned about it.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Camp town usa
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 9:05am
I will use PS to maintain batteries individually. Are those little alligator clip wires appropriate for T105s? Confused

I found another discussion worth introducing regarding EQ in another platform, but same topic and background info otherwise. 

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/6vdc-trojan-t105-225ah-equalization-201841.html


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 10:15am
As long as they clip on the battery posts they will be fine. If not you can just make something up you like better. Charging them separately or together in series is fine, either way, just not in parallel as you can’t guarantee the same charging current to both when they’re in parallel. Each battery has 3 series cells so set your voltages accordingly. Cruiser forum is a good site, unlike rver’s, cruising sailors have to keep their systems operating all the time, its not like they can run down to the Wally World and get a new battery if they have a problem. Have fun.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold



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