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SkeeterPod11 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ball Mount Question
    Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 10:04am
Ive been looking into the e2 weight distribution hitch with built in sway control. I can find any dealers in NJ so its looking like I would have to purchase and install myself. Do you guys use the hitch tightner on a weight distribution hitch or on a standard ball mount hitch?
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 10:37am
Originally posted by SkeeterPod11

Ive been looking into the e2 weight distribution hitch with built in sway control. I can find any dealers in NJ so its looking like I would have to purchase and install myself. Do you guys use the hitch tightner on a weight distribution hitch or on a standard ball mount hitch?

That's debatable. Any WDH will "preload" the receiver. Once I've loaded the round bars, everything is pretty darn tight down there. We don't hear any clunks or thunks when the WDH is engaged, so my inclination is that it's somewhat redundant. OTOH, it would be kind of like belt plus suspenders, and the tightener is pretty inexpensive.
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SkeeterPod11 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 11:02am
I see. Thats kind of what I figured. Due to the tension I imagine there is little room for movement. Did you install your WDH yourself or have it done for you..? From what I understand there are multiple tools including torque wrenches required and Im trying to gauge additional cost and difficulty level. The fact no drilling is required with the e2 thats a plus. & Obviously skill level and familiarity with towing/towing equipment comes into play and mine is somewhat minimal but just wondering..
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mjlrpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 12:08pm
Not true in my case. On my WDH (Fastway E2) the ball mount and spring bars connection points are all in one unit. The whole unit goes into the receiver, so the hitch tightener is very much helpful tightening things up. I don't think I've ever seen a Wdh set up different than that. Where the spring bars connect directly to the vehicle?? I must me missing something.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by mjlrpod

Not true in my case. On my WDH (Fastway E2) the ball mount and spring bars connection points are all in one unit. The whole unit goes into the receiver, so the hitch tightener is very much helpful tightening things up. I don't think I've ever seen a Wdh set up different than that. Where the spring bars connect directly to the vehicle?? I must me missing something.

I don't think you're missing anything, the spring bars do attach to the ball mount assembly of the wdh. It's just that once tightened the stinger is trying to rotate the tow vehicle down in the front by applying torque to the receiver so there is less likelihood of getting that clunking noise. Less but not zero. My wdh will still clunk in the receiver occasionally, just much less frequently than when the bars aren't tightened. Personally the clunking noise doesn't bother me, it just tells me the trailer is still attached back there. Big smile
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by SkeeterPod11

I see. Thats kind of what I figured. Due to the tension I imagine there is little room for movement. Did you install your WDH yourself or have it done for you..? From what I understand there are multiple tools including torque wrenches required and Im trying to gauge additional cost and difficulty level. The fact no drilling is required with the e2 thats a plus. & Obviously skill level and familiarity with towing/towing equipment comes into play and mine is somewhat minimal but just wondering..

You can do it! 

If you're talking about the high torque settings for attaching the ball you don't need to buy a huge torque wrench. It's not rocket science.  Turn the hitch 90 degrees in the receiver. Put your socket and breaker bar on the ball nut and step on the breaker bar, being careful not to fall. If for example the torque setting is 250 ft-lbs (3000 in-lbs) and you weigh 250 lbs  step 12 inches from the center of the nut. If you weigh 125 lbs, step 24 inches out, if you weigh 175 lbs step 17 inches out. IOW, take the ft-lb torque setting, multiply by 12, then divide by your weight and step out that number of inches. Put all your weight on the breaker bar and bounce up and down a little bit just to be sure, it won't hurt anything. 
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geewizard View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 8:02pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2020 at 8:05pm
I  used to hear clunking quite regularly, even when the hitch is properly tensioned. I started using a tightener with the Equal-i-zer hitch. I now use a hitch tightener with my current Hensley Cub hitch because I get clunking from the stinger being just that little bit loose in the receiver. The tightener eliminates that.
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podwerkz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2020 at 12:32pm
It would not be difficult for Curt or any of the receiver shank manufacturers to integrate some kind of dampening bushing....a simple twist of a bolt could expand a rubber bushing in the shank, pushing thru a couple of openings and reduce the clunking to a minimum....hmmm...but I guess I need to patent the idea first!

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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2020 at 12:48pm
Originally posted by SkeeterPod11

Did you install your WDH yourself or have it done for you..? From what I understand there are multiple tools including torque wrenches required and I'm trying to gauge additional cost and difficulty level. The fact no drilling is required with the e2 that's a plus. & Obviously skill level and familiarity with towing/towing equipment comes into play and mine is somewhat minimal but just wondering..
It's not terribly difficult to install, and there are easy workarounds for he high torque requirements (see above). We bought the E2 and the RP179 together as a  "package", and the dealer set it all up.
bp
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