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Outriggers Forest River parts

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Outriggers Forest River parts
    Posted: 17 Sep 2021 at 2:14pm
The down side of using the screws or nuts and bolts for that matter is the placement of the tanks. They are too close to the rails to allow one to get in there to use bolts and if one uses screws and goes through both walls, one runs the risk of puncturing one of the tanks in the process. Since the black water tank is the one in question, that would be an ugly scene. I used shorter screws on the ones that would be at the tank location and went through one wall of the frame only. I figured the major stress would be vertical. Besides, I had already installed two homemade outriggers and bolted them. i installed two of the FR outriggers. I still have two that I need to get installed on the door side.
StephenH
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 1:05am
Actually the stress on the screws attaching the outriggers to the frame are axial not vertical. As the floor sags it pushes downward on the outer ends of the outriggers trying to rotate them. So the upper screws go into tension while the bottom ones are pretty much just along for the ride.

That being said TEKS screws should work fine. Assuming they are 1/4-20 and knowing that the frame tube thickness is 0.1 inch gives an allowable pullout load
of about 430 lbs.

If the outriggers are 10 inches long (how long are they actually?) and the attachment screws are placed 3 inches apart in the frame tube then each pair of screws should be good for about 3/10*430=130 lbs. There's really not that much load from the sagging wall due to rpod light construction so I'd guess an outrigger every couple feet would be fine.

Of course, if you have room to through bolt and use a large flat wwasher on the inside (don't overtighten and compress the frame tube!) then that would be much stronger and you could use fewer outriggers in those areas.
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pedwards2932 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote pedwards2932 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 2:15pm
I finally recieved my outriggers.....no screws and they weren't painted.  I intend to use TEKS screws.  I am going to space them evenly front to back 4 on each side.  Everyone has been saying put them under the rollers for the slide out?  My slide out is on tracks that are midway up on side of slide out.  Where are the rollers?
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JA-Pod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JA-Pod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 3:32pm
When the slide out is extended all the way,  look under it and you will see 4 rollers about 4 inches long,  this is what i have on my 179.  I figured this is where the most of the weight is located.  

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 5:22pm
I installed my outriggers spaced equally under the width of the slideout .  I put one at each end of the slideout and the other 2 equidistant from each other.I assumed that would support the weight evenly across the width of the wall cutout.
It certainly worked, but may not have been the best spacing.
Travel safe
Vann

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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 7:27am
It's not critical in this application but in general if you place evenly spaced supports under a beam with ones at each end the those will only have half the load of the inner ones. That's why you often see cantilevered beams with the outer supports inboard a bit.
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pedwards2932 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote pedwards2932 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 8:04am
The forward corner is where I was having the issue on both sides.  The fiberglass pulled out of the aluminum molding.  I feel like this was because it was bouncing on rough roads.  My repairs to the fiberglass laminate seems to have fixed it as nothing broke free on our last trip.  I got the outriggers to support my repairs so hopefully it won't happen again.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 1:44pm
Yes, just put them where you have sagging; there's not really that much weight on them, the problem is the floor is just too flimsy.
1994 Chinook Concourse
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Post Options Post Options   Quote pedwards2932 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 2:57pm
Well I got 5 of the brackets installed.  On the door side it worked out to installing 2 at either end which left about 15' between them then 5 feet between each of the 2 others.  One ended up just about at hinge point of the door.  I installed the rear one on the slide out side.  I then found I was a member of the sagging trailer squad.  I am going to have to jack up the outer edge where the rear roller for the slide out is.  Looks like it needs to go up about 3/4".  I am completely disappointed with the build quality on my rPod......I shouldn't have to be doing this on a 2018 model.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 4:29pm
Yikes, 3/4 inch is a lot. Check to be sure there isnt any water damage in the floor in that area if you haven't already. If not, then jack her up and add outrigger brackets as needed. Get more if you need to, can't hurt. Then, reaseal both the top and bottom edges. Since the walls are resting on the sagging floor the walls must have dropped down too which would compromise the seals.
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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