Outriggers Forest River parts

Actually the stress on the screws attaching the outriggers to the frame are axial not vertical. As the floor sags it pushes downward on the outer ends of the outriggers trying to rotate them. So the upper screws go into tension while the bottom ones are pretty much just along for the ride.

That being said TEKS screws should work fine. Assuming they are 1/4-20 and knowing that the frame tube thickness is 0.1 inch gives an allowable pullout load
of about 430 lbs.

If the outriggers are 10 inches long (how long are they actually?) and the attachment screws are placed 3 inches apart in the frame tube then each pair of screws should be good for about 3/10*430=130 lbs. There's really not that much load from the sagging wall due to rpod light construction so I'd guess an outrigger every couple feet would be fine.

Of course, if you have room to through bolt and use a large flat wwasher on the inside (don't overtighten and compress the frame tube!) then that would be much stronger and you could use fewer outriggers in those areas.

Yeah, my cargo bay water leak was very disappointing. Strange, but none of my appliances have even acted up on my 179 in 5 full seasons, but the structure, especially the floors, are just not supported well nor are they made of the best materials. My Keystone Bullet 243BHS RV that I use for longer trips, has the new Hyperdeck composite flooring and its structure is rock solid vs the Pod. However, I have had issues with almost everything with a Dometic label on it, including getting the A/C replaced within 18 months! It would be nice if someone could get a composite floor, Azdel walls and better appliances in one RV! ~PP

I don't have the R-Pod with me currently, but the pics I took do show three supports (outriggers) welded, one near the front and two near the axle. 

Originally posted by offgrid You don't have to weld them. FR suggests using TEK self drilling screws and shooting them through both walls of the frame rails. Or you can through books them but if you use a flat washer and don't compress the frame tube by overtightening. It's walls are only 0.1 inch thick.

good question on the optimal place to install them,  I went with all 4 under the slide as directly under the rollers as i could get,  logic to me seem this is where the most pressure would be on the side of the trailer.  Not an engineer here though,   on this forum there are others well versed in the engineering world