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Topic ClosedSetting up solar

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trajoi View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Setting up solar
    Posted: 23 Aug 2020 at 8:44pm
I want to do solar by myself... and I know that I can! HAHA! 
If I buy the Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter 20A Rover MPPT Charge Controller/Mounting Z Brackets/Tray Cable/Adaptor Kit, 200W Panel kit from Amazon - how easy is it to set up, using the rooftop solar ready input, and the place inside, where the monitor would go? 
Has anyone done this before?

I have a 2021 196

Thank you!
Tracey

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john in idaho View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 9:26am
If you mount it on the roof, won't you always have to park in the sun?  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 10:13am
Yes, you can do it.

The most challenging part is going to be getting those zbrakets attached and sealed to the rpod roof. Download the manual and read that section carefully before you buy. There are parts you will need that are not included in the kit.

In fact, read the whole manual carefully and then look over your pod and take some physical and electrical measurements so you know where you will be putting everything and how it will be connected. Also, order a digital multimeter and learn how to use that, you will want it for the installation and other things on your RV going forward. 

You will also probably want dual batteries if you don't have them already to have enough capacity available to accept the charge from 200 watts of solar and for boondocking over a few cloudy days.

And yes of course you will need to park where the roof mount solar is getting at least a few hours of sun daily. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 3:23pm
I opted for the portable route myself.  Renogy 200 watt suitcase, HQST 100 watt panel and two Renogy New Edition Voyager 20Amp PWM Waterproof Solar Charge Controllers. The Renogy 200 watt suitcase is well built does come with a really nice case, but is expensive. I would probably make my own from HQST panels if I were to do it again. I have it configured so I can carry/park one 100 watt HQST panel on my TV.

Use the search function or ask away. Lot's of pretty fart smellers smart fellers around this place!






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Colt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2020 at 8:44pm
You can Dooo EEEtt!!!  It will be fun. If you're a geek. 

I decided to do the same thing at home.  I had a work bench with no work light, no plug within 12 feet and an old motorcycle battery.  Easy, eh?  Well, that corner of the garage doesn't get much sun.  Gotta put the panels on the roof in back.  Ouch  Ran wires through attic, .............  It worked, great.  Wasn't big enough, kept finding more stuff to power, added panel, swapped in bigger panels, more batteries, ........... 

But it's been a fun project and might lead me to go off-grid with a future cabin.  I would do this again, no question. 

I had a good coach.  Look at the panel specs closely.  They have a peak voltage that occurs at first light on a COOOLD morning.  Your charge controller must be rated higher than that.  All the panels must match voltage, if parallel and current if in series.  Best to buy a whole set that are all identical.  Go big.  You will always find more to plug in and you'll save money by buying the right stuff first/once (unless you really are wanting a learning experience).  Size your batteries for 3 days without sun.  You'll have more without useful generation, but not often.  Size your batteries for 2X your max 10 hour power draw and add a large factor of safety for the uncertainty in the loads and battery ageing.  Size you panels to return at least 125% of the power you withdraw in 5 hours (you can't depend on more than 5 hours of full power in a day, average).  Round up to the next largest rating (if you calculate 100 watts, buy 125); the controller will protect the battery. 

i recommend an MPPT controller and running the panels at a higher voltage than the batteries.  That will give you a few more minutes of useful generation at the beginning and end of the day.  It will reduce the size of the conductors you need, too.  MPPTs are more efficient, get the most power from the panels to the batteries.

This site will help with angles.
http://solarpaneltilt.com/

John
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2020 at 9:32am
While I agree with most of the above, there are a couple of things that are not correct.

First, you will not get 5 sun hours on the plane of your solar array in winter, it will be more like 3 in most of north america.  So if you want to size a system that will work year round then don't use 5 sun hours. This calculator will tell you the expected average daily solar radiation by month for the location, tilt, and azimuth you input. Just use the solar radiation column, not the monthly kilowatt hour column which is intended for grid connected solar power systems. 


Also, battery sizing at 3 sunless days is fine for most non-critical applications but I don't understand how that relates to sizing batteries for 2x the 10 hour power draw. You should use 3x the total daily  use, and multiply that by 1.25 (or divide by 0.8) so you don't go below 80% depth of discharge. 

To do the above detailed sizing process you will need to start by knowing all your loads and how long each will run on a daily basis. That is beyond what most folks will know to to start out with which is why just getting a 100 (or 200) watt portable kit makes then most sense to begin with and works well for most people. 

If you do want to take the detailed approach then get a clamp on dc current meter, clip it on one of the main battery conductors and (with the trailer disconnected from ac power) turn on one load at a time and measure the current. Then make a spreadsheet (or do it manually if you like the mental exercise) and multiply each load by the hours per day you think it will run. 

If you plan to camp in the fall months then it would be wise to assume the furnace is running part of the time, if only in the summer then the roof fan will probably be running). Add all those up to get the total daily amp hours load. Your battery amp hour rating should be 3/.8=3.75 times that number. You might find that that is more than will fit on the rPod battery rack. 

For the solar array, ignore the name plate power rating and  find the max power current (Imp) rating of the solar module you want to buy in the spec sheet. Divide the daily amp hour requirement by the daily sunhours from the PVWatts website for the lowest sun month you want to be able to camp and then divide that by the solar module Imp. Round up that number to find the number of modules you will need. 









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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2020 at 2:14pm
Batteries are rated at 20 hours, C20.  I like to use C10 because it is more demanding and is the available rating closer to actual night time use (4 - 5 hours at night, 2-ish hours in the morning).  I am willing to draw deep-discharge batteries down to 50% and will accept the life reduction in trade for less battery cost and in an RV, weight, thus, 2x+ typical demand. 


John
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2020 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by Colt

Batteries are rated at 20 hours, C20.  I like to use C10 because it is more demanding and is the available rating closer to actual night time use (4 - 5 hours at night, 2-ish hours in the morning).  I am willing to draw deep-discharge batteries down to 50% and will accept the life reduction in trade for less battery cost and in an RV, weight, thus, 2x+ typical demand.  



Still confused. I do agree with the objective of sizing the battery for 3 days autonomy (days without sun). And I think the capacity at the C10 rate is fine to use for rpod loads. The C10 rate is the current the battery can produce over a 10 hour discharge period. As most of us are going to have peak currents around 20A (heater fan, water pump, TV, and maybe a couple of lights on at once) and will wind up with around 200 AH battery capacity (because that's what will fit). 200 ah/20a = 10 hours. 

What I'm not following is how you get to 3 days autonomy by multiplying by 2? You should multiply your total daily load in ah by 3 and then divide by 0.8 to remain above 80% depth of discharge or divide by 0.5 if you want to stay above 50%. So, if you have a typical boon docking daily load of say 40AH, you should have a battery capacity of 40*3/.8=150AH or 40*3/.5=240AH. Hence the simplification of just getting 2 GC2 6V batteries which are going to be in the range of 200-230AH. That is a good match for around 150-200 watts of solar for what I would call 2 1/2 season camping in most of the country, which is what most of us do, and allowing for a little shading. 

If your load exceeds 40-50AH per day or you get more than 3 sunless days or you're camped under the tree canopy then you will need an alternate charging source, either a generator or the TV alternator will do. 

1994 Chinook Concourse
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