If I buy the  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VYJ8JXH/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A05654602L3XUQ70M87BV&psc=1 -

The most challenging part is going to be getting those zbrakets attached and sealed to the rpod roof. Download the manual and read that section carefully before you buy. There are parts you will need that are not included in the kit.

You will also probably want dual batteries if you don't have them already to have enough capacity available to accept the charge from 200 watts of solar and for boondocking over a few cloudy days.

And yes of course you will need to park where the roof mount solar is getting at least a few hours of sun daily. 

I opted for the portable route myself.  Renogy 200 watt suitcase, HQST 100 watt panel and two Renogy New Edition Voyager 20Amp PWM Waterproof Solar Charge Controllers. The Renogy 200 watt suitcase is well built does come with a really nice case, but is expensive. I would probably make my own from HQST panels if I were to do it again. I have it configured so I can carry/park one 100 watt HQST panel on my TV.

Use the search function or ask away. Lot's of pretty fart smellers smart fellers around this place!

You can Dooo EEEtt!!!  It will be fun. If you're a geek. 

I decided to do the same thing at home.  I had a work bench with no work light, no plug within 12 feet and an old motorcycle battery.  Easy, eh?  Well, that corner of the garage doesn't get much sun.  Gotta put the panels on the roof in back.    Ran wires through attic, .............  It worked, great.  Wasn't big enough, kept finding more stuff to power, added panel, swapped in bigger panels, more batteries, ........... 

But it's been a fun project and might lead me to go off-grid with a future cabin.  I would do this again, no question. 

I had a good coach.  Look at the panel specs closely.  They have a peak voltage that occurs at first light on a COOOLD morning.  Your charge controller must be rated higher than that.  All the panels must match voltage, if parallel and current if in series.  Best to buy a whole set that are all identical.  Go big.  You will always find more to plug in and you'll save money by buying the right stuff first/once (unless you really are wanting a learning experience).  Size your batteries for 3 days without sun.  You'll have more without useful generation, but not often.  Size your batteries for 2X your max 10 hour power draw and add a large factor of safety for the uncertainty in the loads and battery ageing.  Size you panels to return at least 125% of the power you withdraw in 5 hours (you can't depend on more than 5 hours of full power in a day, average).  Round up to the next largest rating (if you calculate 100 watts, buy 125); the controller will protect the battery. 

i recommend an MPPT controller and running the panels at a higher voltage than the batteries.  That will give you a few more minutes of useful generation at the beginning and end of the day.  It will reduce the size of the conductors you need, too.  MPPTs are more efficient, get the most power from the panels to the batteries.

This site will help with angles.

http://solarpaneltilt.com/

Batteries are rated at 20 hours, C20.  I like to use C10 because it is more demanding and is the available rating closer to actual night time use (4 - 5 hours at night, 2-ish hours in the morning).  I am willing to draw deep-discharge batteries down to 50% and will accept the life reduction in trade for less battery cost and in an RV, weight, thus, 2x+ typical demand. 

Still confused. I do agree with the objective of sizing the battery for 3 days autonomy (days without sun). And I think the capacity at the C10 rate is fine to use for rpod loads. The C10 rate is the current the battery can produce over a 10 hour discharge period. As most of us are going to have peak currents around 20A (heater fan, water pump, TV, and maybe a couple of lights on at once) and will wind up with around 200 AH battery capacity (because that's what will fit). 200 ah/20a = 10 hours. 

What I'm not following is how you get to 3 days autonomy by multiplying by 2? You should multiply your total daily load in ah by 3 and then divide by 0.8 to remain above 80% depth of discharge or divide by 0.5 if you want to stay above 50%. So, if you have a typical boon docking daily load of say 40AH, you should have a battery capacity of 40*3/.8=150AH or 40*3/.5=240AH. Hence the simplification of just getting 2 GC2 6V batteries which are going to be in the range of 200-230AH. That is a good match for around 150-200 watts of solar for what I would call 2 1/2 season camping in most of the country, which is what most of us do, and allowing for a little shading. 

If your load exceeds 40-50AH per day or you get more than 3 sunless days or you're camped under the tree canopy then you will need an alternate charging source, either a generator or the TV alternator will do.