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Chananain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Extreme Water Damage
    Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 4:44am
And really, it's a pity that you didn't notice it. It would be possible to eliminate the cause in advance. I don't even know which is worse when it happens accidentally due to breakdowns.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 8:43am
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 7:54am
The video I was mentioning was the one you talked about here:

"This is how FR has repaired soft floors under warranty. Pilotpodder has a nice video of what they did in his case.  The original floor got its rigidity from being a laminated "sandwich".  That is no longer possible in your case so you will likely need more supports than you think under your new floor to compensate for that."


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 6:41am
If by caulking you mean sealing the bottom of the trailer others might have more experience than I do. 

I tend to lean toward procedures and products used for marine applications since I used to have a wood/epoxy composite sailboat. For that, I used mostly 3M 4200 and 5200 polyurethane adhesive/sealants. 4200 if you want to be able to ever take things apart later, 5200 if you never do. That stuff is so strong you can hang a lead keel on with it. 

Not sure what you mean by video link?  I put a link to West Systems' instructions page in my last post, there are both some videos and text documents in there worth looking at. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 7:43pm
Thanks offgrid.  It's definitely been an adventure.  I ended up tearing up most of the bottom plywood bc it was so loose.  This morning, when I opened it up, it was the first time the smell wasn't overwhelming, so that's a good sign!  

Do you have any experience caulking rpods?  The seams are so slight, putting the caulk bead on there will be a delicate job.

Do you have a link the to the video you mentioned?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 7:54am
Sounds like good albeit messy progress. Layering the foam is fine to get to the thickness you want.  You can use some spray adhesive to bond the layers, just be sure that the materials are compatible. For sure use a closed cell foam.

You might want to use an epoxy mix to fill the wood rather than off the shelf wood filler. That would bond better and resist future moisture and rot. West Systems has some good tutorials you can download.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 7:14am
Well, stage one complete.  I really didn't want to remove all the styrofoam, but after seeing how wet it was underneath in one section, I went ahead.  It was actually easy for most of it.  The lower plywood I left in place, except where it was coming up easilly.

What I found with mine, is that there are basically 6 sections if you look from underneath.  3 of those sections are not able to be seen from below bc of the clean, grey, and black tanks.  Then there are open  sections at the rear, in the middle,and in the front.  I'll be  putting some sort of support in those areas like you mentioned.  Not sure exactly what yet, but it makes sense what you're saying and how it's needed.  I found the foam at Lowes, and it's really inexpensive, but thickness isn't exactly the same.  The foam I took up measured  at 1 3/4", and Lowes only has 1/2, 3/4, and 2....so I'll have to go with the 2 or use several layers together to get it the same size.  Unhappy

The front and rear were the most damaged by water--from the floor and one corner/side  ended up being pretty wet. I exposed the wall on those areas, and actually took off the back molding in the rear corner to let it dry further.

We're having a glorious week here in SC.  Cool temps, low humidity, and sunshine! I'll have to do some wood filler repair on the  exposed walls, as well put in new plywood on the inner back panel, and some sort of wall paper. That will be the easy part! 
The inside is now down to only a bit of framing around the hot water  tank and heater, and of course the fridge and bathroom areas.  Everything else is down to the waterproofing wrap!

I decided I need to recaulk those areas, and might as well do the whole thing it's really not that much more.

So next steps is scraping and resealing while the inside dries.  I'm definitely happy to be done with  the tear down, that part was not fun and felt like I just kept finding more and more wet areas.  Time to put it back together, and I'm actually excited now about the possibility of what the inside can look like now and being able to sleep in it again!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2020 at 11:10am
That other forum member hasn't been active for a couple of years so probably you won't hear from him. 

If it was me I wouldn't try to remove the lower plywood, just remove the foam and the weatherproofing and let it dry. I would assume that could take several months. As the weather cools the humidity will drop and you can add some heat, that will speed things up. If you take the time to let it dry thoroughly you won't need to worry about the inaccessible areas wicking water back into your repaired areas. 

When everything is dry I would add the outriggers and an additional plywood layer under the lower one, wrapped in new weatherproofing, caulked, and supported from underneath by outriggers and support rails extending between the frame rails. 

This is how FR has repaired soft floors under warranty. Pilotpodder has a nice video of what they did in his case.  The original floor got its rigidity from being a laminated "sandwich".  That is no longer possible in your case so you will likely need more supports than you think under your new floor to compensate for that.

Then new foam from above and a new top ply layer. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2020 at 8:56am
So, rpod  floor update!

After a week or more of drying, I ended up taking out most of the wood from the inside.  It turns out not only did I have a leak at the rear window, but also some of the openings (the outlet by right wheel well, the shore power outlet).  

So, I have scraped up the top layer of all the plywood.  Pulled off part of the wall to expose the wet areas and start drying it out.  The humidity tester tool was crucial here, as it showed me where things were still damp where I couldn't see, thank you again Dennis! 

The worse area was in the rear storage, under the seat  where the table is in the 172.  I took up the sub floor, down to the styrofoam, and part of lower plywood next to the water proofing.  I see there are 2 places where I will need to get someone to weld in a few riggers.  The back area, and the very front. 

My concern now, is waiting for it to finish drying (slow but surely, I'm using a few small DC fans, and charging the battery as needed), and what to do about the lower plywood (next to the water proofing).  It seems like the entire lower plywood is WET!

I saw another post of a guy who works on boats who took all his floor out.  I've DM'd him, but he hasn't gotten back to me.  I want to know if he took out his fridge, etc...I can see how I could take out all the styrofoam and wood except for below the appliances.  Replacing the lower wood, and cleaning or replacing the styrofoam would not be that hard, but if I don't expose the wood by the water proofing below the fridge and under the bathroom, I'm worried that little bit of moisture left there will end up making this all happen again. 

Thoughts? Anything encouragement or guidance is appreciated! 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 8:29am
No experience with them. Maybe someone else does. Lots of this stuff was developed for wooden or composite wood/fiberglaa boat building and repair. 

I'd guess that their epoxies are probably similar to the West Systems ones. I would check that whatever you use retains flexibility and is proven to adhere to damp wood. Don't know how polyurethanes would work in your application.  Let us know what you wind up using and how it works for you. 
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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