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geewizard View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Roof Top AC for sale
    Posted: 02 Apr 2020 at 8:27am
I removed the rooftop AC from our 2017 177 and replaced it with a fan.

Anyone interested in buying it (and the thermostat)?  Make me an offer.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2020 at 8:46am
I’m planning on doing the same thing. How did you wire the fan? Maybe do a post on the mod?
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geewizard View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 12:25pm
Removal was pretty straightforward.  This pertains strictly to my Rpod 2017 177 HRE AC removal.

-set AC breaker to off and AC unplugged from the Rpod
-removed inside AC cover (4 screws) and gently pry off from aluminum bracket.
-disconnected AC wiring, thermostat control wiring, and 12v wiring.
-there was a metal outlet box screwed into the plywood which contained the AC wiring.  I removed the box.

-I took my Rpod to a local dealer and had them remove the 180lb AC unit off the roof (($50)
-just prior to the local dealer picking up the AC unit off the roof, I went inside and undid 4 or 5 hex bolts holding the rooftop unit to the aluminum bracket on the inside (to which the internal cover attached).
-at this point, I had an open hole in the roof and I could see where the AC, 12v, and thermostat wiring went into horizontal holes drilled in the roof plywood on the bathroom side.
-I cut off the AC wires so no bare copper was showing and then put heat shrink tubing on each wire.
-I bent the AC wire 180 degrees and pushed it back into the hole so it would be accessible in the future.
-once the fan was centered in the roof hole, I marked each screw hole in the flange with a fine tip marker.
-I then removed the fan from the hole and drilled pilot holes into the roof with a drill bit marked with tape for the correct length of the screws.
-I cleaned the roof with alcohol and then applied a bead of Dicor self-leveling caulk right on top of the drilled holes all the way around the opening.
-I placed the fan into the hole and then "found" the drilled holes with each screw and tightened them down by hand.
-I covered each screw with more Dicor and evened up the Dicor that squished out from the fan flange with a wet finger.
-I had two 12v cables coming out of the hole and testing showed which one was live.  The other one went to several lights.  I used wire nuts to connect both of these existing 12v cables to the fan 12v wires.  I pushed the excess 12v wires back into their hole in the plywood once the fan was installed.
-I had two thermostat wires coming out of their hole in the plywood.  One thermostat cable went to the wall thermostat and the other went to the furnace.
-I soldered the red to red and white to white and covered both connections with heat shrink tubing.
-I pushed the excess thermostat wires back into their hole such that they could be retrieved later.
-I tucked the 12v wiring up alongside the fan housing and the plywood.
-I removed the AC thermostat from the wall and installed a new thermostat.
Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Pro-Digital 2-Wire Heat Only (Amazon)


-I tested the fan, thermostat, and heater operation.
-I held the inside fan cover up on the fan to gauge how much I'd need to cut off and then added 1/4" to that measurement so I'd have a snug fit.
-I had some of the adhesive decorative paper on the roof luan board misplaced by the inside AC aluminum clamp moving around somehow.  I used a hair dryer to gently heat it up and stretch it back into place.  Most of these were covered by the fan cover but I wanted them smooth and flat too.
-I marked, drilled pilot holes for, and screwed the inside fan cover into the ceiling.  The screws went into the aluminum frame so drilling pilot holes was a must.

-I have placed a label over the AC thermostat breaker that says DISCONNECTED.

That's it.  Not too big of a chore at all.

Any questions, fire away.  Sorry, no pics.



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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 1:10pm
I have a 13500 btu sitting around at home I'll give it away for free.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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geewizard View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by marwayne

I have a 13500 btu sitting around at home I'll give it away for free.


Now how in the heck am I going to get any money for my 13.5k btu AC if you do this???  LOL
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 4:45pm
Say, we were ahead in that we special ordered our 177 back in January 2011 with NO A/C.  Love the extra light that comes in.  In that hole the factory just put in a unit similar to the FF in the bathroom sans the fan so we can open it up whenever we want extra ventilation, works great!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 6:09am
Originally posted by geewizard


-at this point, I had an open hole in the roof and I could see where the AC, 12v, and thermostat wiring went into horizontal holes drilled in the roof plywood on the bathroom side.

-I had two 12v cables coming out of the hole and testing showed which one was live.  The other one went to several lights.  I used wire nuts to connect both of these existing 12v cables to the fan 12v wires.  I pushed the excess 12v wires back into their hole in the plywood once the fan was installed.


That's it.  Not too big of a chore at all.

Any questions, fire away.  Sorry, no pics.



Thanks for the thorough description.

What I'm understanding is that there were two +12V wires visible within the roof cavity after you removed the a/c unit? One of those was unswitched and the other was powered from the 7 pin connector and went to the trailer lights?  Were you able to determine where the power for the unswitched line came from? Was there a -12V line there as well? 

If you connected the +12V line feeding the lights to the unswitched +12V line at the fan then your trailer lights ought to be on all the time so I might not be understanding this correctly. 

Re your roof a/c, in normal times I'd suggest putting it on Craigslist in the RV section, you probably need to try to sell it locally as it would  probably cost more than its worth to ship it somewhere. 
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geewizard View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 8:20am
offgrid,

There were two 12vdc wires (2 conductors each) visible in the roof cavity after I removed the AC.  They were connected together (two +12 conductors connected together and two -12v conductors connected together) and also went to the AC.  One wire was the +/- 12v feed from, I assume, the converter and the other one went to the ceiling lights and maybe the radio, I'm not entirely sure.  Definitely NOT the tail lights.

Yes, it was a +12 and a =12 conductor in the wire.  Standard 12v power situation.
I connected them back together and also included the 12v wires to the fan.  So, I had three +12v conductors connected with a wire nut and three -12v conductors connected with a wire nut.

I hope that's clearer.
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2017 R-Pod 177 (Blue) HRE SOLD
2004 Outfitter Apex 8 camper
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 8:46am
Got it now thanks geewizard. So you now have the new fan on the same circuit as your ceiling lights. That should work fine for me as well.

I might try parking under a tree limb, lifting my a/c up on a couple of blocks, tieing it off, pulling the blocks, and then driving out from under it.
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Colt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2020 at 1:29am
Where do you live that you can sleep w/o A/C?

It's a noisy S.O.B., but I gotta have it. Is there a quieter unit that fits?
John
'16 R-Pod 180
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