Space heater trips inverter breaker (R-Pod 195)

I used my Kill A Watt while on shore power and the Television registered about 1 amp.  I'll have to try it on the inverter only and see what it draws at 12v.  [Edit...it would still be 120v.  Now I'm confusing myself]

Good news is that I tested the space heater that started all this trouble on 1/2 power on one of the interior outlets while plugged into my home electric and it draws about 6.5 amps (and didn't trip the inverter breaker, not that it should have).  Looks like I won't have to run an extension cord through the window lol.

I'm aware that the battery needs to be maintained above 50%.  I need to investigate whether the solar controller indicates (probably roughly) the remaining capacity.  It indicates current AH input to the battery, total AH input over that last X hours (or maybe during its "charging day"...will have to check on that), and battery voltage.  Manual says a fully charged battery should read > 13.6 volts.  When I retrieved the R-Pod from the dealer (and it saw the sun again) it went in to "Bulk charging" mode, with the light on the controller indicating that the battery was between 11.5 and 12.5 volts.  Not sure how that equates to remaining amp-hours.  Maybe someone can help on this.

The dual voltage TV I got on Amazon has worked fine for me so far. Pretty much all lcd tvs come from China and there really isn't a whole lot to distinguish them in my opinion.  I just buy the cheapest one in the size that I want and call it good. I use my phone with a hdmi adapter for streaming and run the sound through the bluetooth stereo in the trailer. Works fine, and a cell booster brings in sufficient data bandwidth most places I camp. Yep and you can stream music via the bt link too, from outside in the campsite as well as inside. 

I agree that reducing the shore power capacity by installing an undersized inverter/transfer switch seems like a poor design choice.

Besides the TV, what else do you want to be able to run from the inverter (without shore power)? I hate to say this, but if the answer is nothing else and you don't feel comfortable with rewiring some of your receptacles you might be better off to just bypass the inverter and its transfer switch entirely, which would be relatively easy from a wiring standpoint. You can then get a dual voltage TV inexpensively on Amazon or elsewhere which would also be more efficient when running on 12V.  

Excellent suggestion, but sounds like a task for a master RV electrician.  I'm a geologist.

When the outlets were nonfunctional we ran the space heater at 1/2 power (draw = 7 or so amps) off of an extension cord plugged in to a 20-amp circuit and run through the back-left window by the bed (opened it just enough and sealed off the rest of the opening from the outside). Kept the R-Pod nice and warm.

Maybe that will be our solution when on shore power...I would hate to trip that breaker again because it's a total pain to get to.  Alternatively, maybe a much smaller space heater would do the trick.  7-8 amps < 12 amps, but still...

When not on shore power the propane heater would be in play of course.  Also, the TV draws about 1 amp when 120v is available, so on battery it should draw 10 amps, correct (120v/12v = 10x the amp draw I believe)?  That means if the battery is rated at, say, 100 amp-hours then running the TV for two hours at night would draw the battery down about 20%.  That's in addition to any other 12v draws.

During the day the battery would be partially replenished by the solar.  Yesterday about 9 amp-hours were sent to the battery, and that's with our current very low sun angle, so there is hope...

Hope I've got this right...