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Topic Closed50 or 30 amp

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 50 or 30 amp
    Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 10:55am
StephenH, what you’re looking at wouldn’t actually be rated for a wet location. It might work for you in practice, you’d probably want to close it up and test it to see how watertight it was.

Lostagain, you’re doing fine. That box and breaker would not only work but it would be fully rated and code compliant I think, your only problem is going to be mounting. NEMA3R boxes have to be mounted vertically well above ground to stay dry. If you attached it to a piece of pipe or steel stake and drove that in the ground youd be fine but I’m not sure that would always be practical.

GlueGuy, I think the water resistant fuse and fuse holder I found was made by littelfuse. Made for fusing things like parking lot area lighting so you’d need to mechanically protect it in some kind of enclosure but probably a waterproof one is unnecessary. StephenH’s one might work fine for that.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 11:01am
I was looking at the LEB or LET series. Sorry for the non clickable link, I’m having trouble working that with my phone.

https://m.littelfuse.com/products/fuse-blocks-fuseholders-and-fuse-accessories/electrical-inline-panel-mount-fuse-holders.aspx
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 11:05am
Thanks. I'll look into it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 11:30am
Yeah, I was thinking it's kind of big and would have to be mounted to a stake or something.  I guess you could get some heavy double sided velcro and mount it to the pedestal. 

But how would you install the in line fuse?  In the dogbone adaptors all seem to be sealed?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 12:32pm
Inline, I would cut the outer layer of the cord in the center to find the positive conductor. I would strip enough to be able to cut the positive conductor and then cut it. Then strip the ends enough to attach to the terminals. That would then need to be wrapped and then sealed in the waterproof enclosure. The ends would need to be outside that enclosure, of course so that the 50A plug could be plugged into the outlet and the 30A socket would be available for the RPod's power cord.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 1:18pm
Something like this would work. It uses 10 AWG wire, so would be fine for 30 amps. 30 amp blade-style fuses that you use in your TV could be used as spares. The 12V rating should be a non-issue, as 30 amps is 30 amps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 2:11pm
No, 30A DC is not the same as 30A AC from what I was reading of the specs when I was looking at breakers.For example, the specs for the push button breaker I cited was:
Interrupt Capacity:3000A @ 120V AC , 5000A @ 32V DC
So a 12V 30A fuse would not support 120V 30A the way I read it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 2:39pm
StephenH is correct, a 12Vdc fuse isn’t designed to clear a fault in a 120vac circuit. It would most likely arc and the arc would not extinguish. Not good.

Since it’s an ac circuit the voltage alternates from polarity. So what you have is a hot line, a neutral and a ground. The neutral will be white. Typically the hot will be black. The ground will be bare copper. For a 120Vac circuit you’ll get 120V between black and neutral. For a 240Vac circuit you will see both red and black as well as white and ground. You’ll get 120Vac between black and neural and between red and neutral and 240Vac between red and black. The neutral and ground should stay connected at all times the circuit is live. Only the hot line(s) should get a circuit breaker or fuse.



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 3:35pm
One other thought. Get lostagain’s lowcost listed RV outlet and breaker box. Hardwire a 6awg 50A rated cord and 50A plug to it.

Permanently mount it on a convenient place onthe trailer tongue or bumper. If you want to use a 50A RV service plug the 50A cord to it then your existing 30A cord from the new box to the trailer connector. When not in use wrap up the 50A cord and clip it to the trailer. Dispense with the dogbone. Should be a pretty inexpensive solution and straightforward installation.

Just a thought.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 3:54pm
Here is what I was thinking:  

Cut off one of the hot spades and the corresponding other end on the pigtail.  Hard wire it into the box I previously mentioned with the link.  You basically have, if the Colombian altitude hasn't affected my brain too much, a hot, ground, and neutral that draws from a 50A breaker.  Since the cord is a 50A cord, you're not undersized.  [I'm assuming the plug configuration is compatible for the pedestal and the pigtail, but haven't confirmed it.}

On the back of the box with the 30A plug and breaker, fasten a length or a couple lengths of 2 sided velcro to wrap a couple times around the pedestal.  The pigtail would enter from below with an outdoor knockout connector.  After velcroing the box to the pedestal securely, plug in the pigtail to the 50A plug such that it drops down, creating a drip point, then back up to the 30A box.  

I think the whole thing would fit into the box my Double H boots came in and would be easy to store.

The advantage, you have no splices, no cut cable to waterproof, and the 2nd hot never makes it into the system because the spade doesn't go into the 220VAC plug.  Total cost about $60 tax, lic., dealer prep. and doc fees included.

Ok, offgrid, and GlueGuy, tear me a new one. ;--) and tell me I should stick with the legal biz.  
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