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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 12 May 2020 at 6:07am
Two questions:

If the water heater was drained for winterization by removing the anode rod (only way to be sure to get all the water out) then was it fully tightened back in the tank afterward or left loose? I would check that spot first as many folks leave the anode rod loose over the winter so any residual water can drain out. The anode rod is the thing that looks like a bolt head at the bottom center of the end of the tank you see when you open the outside cover. 

Second, have you confirmed that the water is actually coming from the water heater? There is of course plumbing in that area as well so you should hunt for the actual leak source before doing anything else.  You might have to pressurize the system and refill the tank again to find the leak. Once you do, drain everything again like you are winterizing so everything can dry out. 

If you've confirmed its the water heater, not the plumbing and not the anode rod hole but the tank itself, then you are unfortunately going to need a replacement tank. They cost around USD 300-400 but aren't  that difficult to replace. 

Good luck!
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Posts: 2629 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 7:52pm
Originally posted by alwayssmilingtoo

Once we brought our RPOD 180 home from winter storage, it was home 3 days and then water started coming out from underneath the water heater.  Does this mean that the water heater is puched? Can if burst by sitting there after 3 days, could it be something else?

Did you maybe forget to empty it for winter storage? If it had water in it during freezing weather, you may have a cracked/burst tank. Just guessing without more information.
bp
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Posts: 6 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2020 at 7:01pm
Once we brought our RPOD 180 home from winter storage, it was home 3 days and then water started coming out from underneath the water heater.  Does this mean that the water heater is puched? Can if burst by sitting there after 3 days, could it be something else?
Lina Scott
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Posts: 26 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2018 at 9:56pm
good deal.  thanks a lot
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2018 at 7:36am
"open" is "parallel".. The "owners manual" is a generic thing.
On some rigs, (no Pods that I know of) there is in fact, only one valve, a few pods have shown up with a 2 valve system, but by and large, Pods have a 3 valve system. Tech's notes are for that system.
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Posts: 6288 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 10:11pm
The way I have done it since purchasing our RP179 is to have the three valves set so that the top and bottom ones  (hot water and cold water valves) set to open (parallel to lines) and the bypass valve (in between the lines) closed. Either with the water pump or with a city water connection, the water heater tank will start to fill, but there will be air in the tank that will need to be vented. That can be done either by opening a hot water faucet or by opening the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank on the outside behind the cover. Don't turn on the water heater until it is full. This mainly applies to the electric water heater because the element can burn out in a matter of seconds if there is no water in there.
StephenH
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MikeP View Drop Down
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Posts: 26 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 9:42pm
Hey folks. This thread is awesome as is, and apologies for extending.  Getting ready to take my 179 on it's maiden voyage to Ribberfest this weekend.  Very pumped, even though we'll see rain all weekend.  I felt pretty good about what I need to do to get the hot water flowing....UNTIL I read the owners manua, loll.  Could someone please clarify one point for me? "Tech" mentioned the hot and cold water line valves should be set parallel (open) and the bypass valve should be "closed".  This makes sense to me, but the owners manual states "prior to first use, be sure the bypass valve, if installed, is set to "open" to allow water flow into the tank", which also sort of makes sense.  Now I'm confused. Any help appreciated!
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Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 11:48pm
mamcaloon,
Welcome! Glad to see you searched and found this post, it's a good one. Better than starting a new topic and starting it over, this original post is 7 years old and nailed it! I never would have seen it otherwise.
rgds John
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Posts: 3221 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 7:46pm
That is the beauty of this forum, podders assisting others.  Much to learn on this site, and a lot of experienced campers more than willing to share their expertise with those of us who are still on the learning curve.
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Posts: 9 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 3:30pm
Thank you so much for posting this information! We are on our "virgin camper" trip and our hot water never got hot, only lukewarm. I checked the valves and the hot and cold valves were correct but the connecting line valve was wrong. I turned it and we now have hot water!
M&M
2016 183G
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