Floor Repair

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   Sorry I posted this in another forum by mistake.  I have an 2010 R-Pod that has rot around the back and sides of the 
floor.  I would like to know if anybody has had any experience replacing
 and or repairing the floor. If there is anyone out there that has attempted this on their own I would like to get their input.  I would appreciate any and all advice 
short of burning the trailer.  Thanks in advance.

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Racerdad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2018 Location: ON Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote Racerdad Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Floor Repair Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 10:12am
	Sorry I posted this in another forum by mistake. I have an 2010 R-Pod that has rot around the back and sides of the floor. I would like to know if anybody has had any experience replacing and or repairing the floor. If there is anyone out there that has attempted this on their own I would like to get their input. I would appreciate any and all advice short of burning the trailer. Thanks in advance.

Woodmiester Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 03 Aug 2018 Location: Greenwood IN Online Status: Offline Posts: 142	Post Options Post Reply Quote Woodmiester Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 12:00pm
	Good Morning Racerdad, Well, I have repaired floors in travel trailers in the past, however, never on an R-POD. It is relatively simple. Your walls sit on the floor itself, so when you remove the damaged floor, you will have a void beneath your sill plate and the frame of the camper that you will need to slide the new floor into. This is not hard, but will take patience and some pretty precise cutting of the new floor pieces. Always remove and replace flooring from support to support. That may mean you will cut out a little more of the flooring than you want, but the new flooring will need support on all edges. As you cut out and remove the old floor, insert a spacer the same thickness as your flooring between the side wall of the camper and the frame. (this will hold everything in place until you apply your new floor. (Make these spacers large enough that you can pull them out as your new floor goes in. Be careful putting your new flooring in. Don't beat the edges up too much with your hammer. A rubber mallet and a small piece of 2X4 works great. (I even cut a groove in the 2X4 the same width as the thickness of the new flooring) Before I purchased my RPOD, I looked at a few used ones and found quite a bit of rear floor rot on most of them..After a little research, I deduced that the water was coming in around the tail lights which had not been sealed properly on a regular basis. When I did this on my keystone, I replaced the flooring with marine grade plywood. Hope this helps. Not an insurmountable problem at all.
	Swampfox

Racerdad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2018 Location: ON Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote Racerdad Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 1:12pm
	Thanks and now I have to decide where and when I attempt this herculean feat of frustration. I still would like to see pics or videos of jobs. I have searched You-tube to no avail. I appreciate any and all suggestions. David

john in idaho Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 04 Nov 2014 Location: Eagle Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 611	Post Options Post Reply Quote john in idaho Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 4:43pm
	I punched a 1" hole in the floor of my 2015 179. I had slid the spare tire rack under the pod for more clearance in the winter and forgot it when I tried to jack up the tongue in the spring to hitch up. I did not go all the way thru. My floor seems to be a laminate of inner floor , foam and outer, or under -cover. I had the piece of door that I removed to put a window in the door so I used a piece of that foam and some gorilla glue, and left a piece of the outer door skin attached to the foam. I then covered it all with a 6" square of really sticky shingle under layer that I had left over from building something. Then with a hair dryer, heated it up like the sun would on a roof. That was two years ago and all is well today.

Racerdad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2018 Location: ON Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote Racerdad Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 5:02am
	Since the weather is getting cold I think I'll put off the repairs until spring. If by chance I can get the use of a garage then a winter project it shall be. Any and all suggestions are still welcomed. Dave

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 7:09am
	Sure, its ok to put off the floor repair till spring as long as the floor is dry now and you have found and repaired the source(s) of the leak(s). If its still wet and/or water is getting in you could have a much bigger problem down the road.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Racerdad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2018 Location: ON Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote Racerdad Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 7:56am
	I hear you, it's opened and drying out and I'm going to tarp the trailer today.

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 11:02am
	If its still wet you might be better off cutting out the wet areas now if you can, water has a nasty tendency to wick laterally in flooring. That way you would also be able to leave the remaining floor areas and bottoms of walls open to the air to dry completely over the winter.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Racerdad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2018 Location: ON Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote Racerdad Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 11:25am
	Great idea, thanks. I didn't think of that.

mcarter Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 07 Apr 2016 Location: Greenbrier, TN Online Status: Offline Posts: 3419	Post Options Post Reply Quote mcarter Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct 2018 at 3:51pm
	Racerdad, I think first thing to do is remove items on the wet area. I agree water wicks, which to me means cabinets and seating structures, wall areas. The floor can dry once you to where you have eyes on it and the wet areas. Hard to remove the wet floor with cabin structures in place.
	Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."