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offgrid
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Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Topic: Concept for cold weather use of rPod water systems Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 5:08pm |
Maybe that’s what You meant Texman but probably just a valve is all you need to regulate the flow back into the fresh tank. Press on sharkbite type fitting work just fine, they’re just spendy. Personally I don’t think the low point drain fitting are going to be be necessary as you will have a route to flow any antifreeze back through the whole system once you’ve made these mods, but adding interior valves for them won’t hurt anything if you can find a place for them.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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texman
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Joined: 24 Jul 2014
Location: TeXas
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Posts: 446
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Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 4:39pm |
i am planning to use the shark bite fittings since i dont have any pex tools. they should work well in the tight areas i think.
my 182g has two low drain points and the rear kitchen sink too. i plan to put valves and join the low point drains and move them inside the pod walls if possible. not sure that will work out if the low point drains will be inaccesible one moved inside the pod. need to do some investigating.
i am also thinking i will add a pressure regulator to limit the amount of water flowing back into the fresh water tank via the overflow line. hopefully that will limit the flow enough to allow the water to drain back into the tank instead of blow out the overflow.
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 4:29pm |
I use the crimp tool and ss crimps. Not having used the ring type I can’t compare either. I’ve rarely if ever had a problem getting into small spaces with the crimp tool though, it doesn’t go around the tube so you don’t need space behind or side to side of the tube but you do need some space in front to open up the crimp handles.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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Motor7
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Jan 2019
Location: E. TN
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Posts: 196
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Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 3:11pm |
Tex, there are two types of pex tools, the compression one that uses the bronze rings, and the crimp type that uses the SS rings. The pex ring compression tool is very handy so you might want to bite the bullet and have one around. However, be aware that in real small confined areas like a camper it can be impossible to use. I have not used the crimp style and have no idea if it is better in small places.
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2016 R-Pod 176T
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 11:43am |
TexMan, I can’t see any reason that this valve shouldn’t work, and as you say the energy efficiency is better. Great find!
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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texman
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Joined: 24 Jul 2014
Location: TeXas
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Posts: 446
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Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 11:33am |
i am thinking of getting this valve instead of the solenoid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WWPZWGZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A20QEF2LEKCK8G&psc=1 Reasons:
1. I am having trouble finding 1/4" npt to 1/2" pex, so 1/2" npt valve is easier to source parts to tap into my 1/2" pex. i was planning to use shark bit pex fittings since i dont have the clamp tool. 1/2 pex to 1/2" npt is readily available at lowes.
2. This is motorized ball valve instead of a solenoid with auto return to close when no power. So it should work with the thermostats that i have, i think. So it will still use some power while open (30ma) since it is auto return, but much less than a solenoid (1.25A if my math is correct in converting 15va at 12v.) and shouldn't have the heating problem that a solenoid can have.
please let me know if you think this will work.
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posted: 24 Jan 2019 at 11:48am |
Yep, half inch pex. Not sure why they used that hose instead of pex for the pump suction line, maybe they saved 2 cents. I think that solenoid was 1/4 inch npt, not sure. You’ll need fitting for that. Keep us posted!
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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texman
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Joined: 24 Jul 2014
Location: TeXas
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Posts: 446
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Posted: 24 Jan 2019 at 8:25am |
i ordered a solenoid and 2 thermostats. They should be here Friday. Looks like i will be working with 1/2" pex lines, and 1/2" ID vinyl tubing at the freshwater supply and pump connections. Is that the correct sizes of the lines for fittings and valves?
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 24 Jan 2019 at 5:54am |
I’m not familiar with the 176 plumbing routing. I’d guess either there is a single branch for hot and cold that loops around the floor of the trailer or there are 2 branches. You’d have to trace it out to be sure. If there are 2 branches you’ll probably see tees for them in the pump/water heater area.
If you have a single branch then one new valve connecting the ends of the hot and cold lines of that branch would be required. If 2 branches then you’d need 2 valves, one at the end of each branch. Either way the concept should work, its the same approach that is used for those instant hot water systems you can buy for your house.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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SkiPod
Newbie
Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Location: TX - Texas
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Posts: 10
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Posted: 23 Jan 2019 at 7:22pm |
I'm wondering if the circulation pump would work for the 176 model. The shower and toilet is on the opposite side of the trailer as the water pump and sink, so I'm not sure the water would circulate to that side which is where we're getting the freezing problem?
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