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Topic ClosedSealing/caulking awning and spoiler

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TylerK9 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
    Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 11:32am
Getting ready for our second season with our 2017 RP 180, and I am inspecting roof seams for the first time. Caulk around the sides looks good, and the lap sealant around the antenna, fan, etc. also seems to be in good shape. But the caulking around the awning and spoiler was a mess.

I have scraped and cleaned these areas, and I’m getting ready to re-apply sealant. Suggestions on whether I should use regular silicone caulk, or dicor lap sealant in these places? The spoiler may not be flat enough for dicor, especially where it curves along the back of the roof.But it looks like I could easily run lap sealant along the edge of the awning. Previously it was just silicone.

Also, none of the screwheads on the spoiler or awning connections were covered before. Should I caulk or seal all of those as well for greater waterproofing?

Thanks!
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 12:31pm
Try using Etearnabond roof sealant tape on your spoiler.  Consider sealing the top edge and side to allow for any condensation to weep out the bottom.  I did this and it has held nicely for 2 years.


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Fred & Maria Kearney
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Tibof View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 10:42pm
I would try non self leveling Dicor.  The spoiler is a major issue.  Silicone will pull away as the spoiler flexes.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 10:37pm
Currently, because of warpage in the spoiler seating edge (a common issue), I am considering giving up on mere caulking and starting over with a new spoiler.  The part is basically junk (it should have been rigid metal), and the location for it is not properly framed to permit it to be pulled down snug by screws into a bedding compound like butyl tape (as is done with windows).  The spoiler is flexible, cheap plastic and snugging down screws leaves rainbow sections upheaved along the edge between the screws.  In my case, one problem area has a good 3/8" or better gap.  Soooo, I am toying with the idea of using butyl auto windshield bedding caulk to bed the spoiler (after removing the old one and sealing all wiring holes beneath it).  Then, I will use a caulk of some kind to glaze the edge for insurance.  Perhaps non-self leveling Dicor.  BTW, Lostagain, were you using double sided Eternabond?
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:07am
Tibof, I have the same soft plastic, way too flexible, spoiler that they put on as part of a recall over clearance lighting.  When they installed it they put, likely, silicone caulk under it.  There were gaps along the upper edge where they would function like a scupper and capture the water; a guaranteed leak.  The sides and bottom had no gap issue.

First I tried to fill the gaps with 3M 5200 caulk, but too many of the gaps were too big.  So, I put 4" Eternabond tape along the side edges then across the top, overlaying the spoiler.  I got a very good seal with no gaps anywhere and have had no leaks.  I left the bottom untaped so as to provide an escape route for any water or condensation that could accumulate.  I was a little worried about wind driven rain being pushed uphill up under the lower edge, but that has not turned out to be a problem.

The bad thing about the tape is that it covers the screws that hold the spoiler on, so if I ever need to take it off, I have to deal with getting the tape off, but there are a number of solvents that will clean off the glue.  What I am not sure about is how the 3 LED lights in the spoiler are installed.  I don't know if they have to be changed from inside, or will pop out from the outside.  But, LED lights last, for my purposes, basically for ever so the probability of having to deal with spoiler removal is pretty low.

Hiere is a photo of the spoiler where you can see the installation.  What appear to be little white bumps are where the surface is raised a little because of the screws but they're well sealed.


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Fred & Maria Kearney
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:17am
How do you think that taking a narrow aluminum strip, drilling it and using it on top of the leading edge of the spoiler to hold the leading edge down and help keep it from warping would work? Longer screws might be needed.
This is what I am thinking:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-8-ft-x-3-4-in-Aluminum-Metal-Flat-Bar/3058159

The trailing edge I am not so concerned about as it would be draining any water that would happen to get underneath. On mine, the wires were well sealed going through the roof when I took the spoiler off mine. It was not so much that the edge had come up in my case, but that when I removed screws I noticed that while the edge had sealant, the screws were not sealed and showed evidence of rust which means they were allowing sufficient moisture in for them to rust. Since it went to the factory after our accident, it came back with the new style spoiler but I am seeing warping in it so I will likely re-do it.
StephenH
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:33am
StephenH, that's one of the advantages of the Eternabond tape method.  The screws are completely sealed.  Using metal strip as a compression bar might work, but it will depend on whether the screws go only into the skin or go into a structural member.  If, and it's more likely, they go only into the skin, there isn't enough withdrawal resistance and the screws will eventually work lose permitting moisture to enter.  For the metal compression strip to work, you really need to have the screws go into one of the 2x2 cross members so they can be adequately tightened to achieve the needed compression to have a good seal between the roof and the spoiler.  
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:40am
Thanks. I'll have to look for Eternabond tape in black since that is the color of the spoiler on our 179.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 12:23pm
I have discovered that after requesting photos of my problem, FR would do nothing, which they could have done right off and eliminated the photo taking time and hassle (since they have a canned response).  They simply noted that it is out of warranty and as a 2015 model year it may now be four years old!  I simply asked for a good will provision of a spoiler.  Nada.  The spoiler is a large design defect issue; do a Google search.  The new spoiler comes with a tape that you peal the face off, install, then caulk.  It costs well over over $100 with shipping.  Were anyone to inquire of my opinion, I would strongly recommend not to buy an R-Pod.  I know from experience that there are companies out there that build and value a good reputation.  FR is not one of them in my experience.
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Leo B View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 4:26pm
I get it you are not happy with Forest River, are you dealing with the Forest River factory of the dealership? We are on our second Rpod and have a warranty work done on both  through the years and have been treated really well.  
Leo & Melissa Bachand
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