Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11307
Printed Date: 22 Jun 2025 at 4:14pm
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Topic: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
Posted By: TylerK9
Subject: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 11:32am
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Getting ready for our second season with our 2017 RP 180, and I am inspecting roof seams for the first time. Caulk around the sides looks good, and the lap sealant around the antenna, fan, etc. also seems to be in good shape. But the caulking around the awning and spoiler was a mess.
I have scraped and cleaned these areas, and I’m getting ready to re-apply sealant. Suggestions on whether I should use regular silicone caulk, or dicor lap sealant in these places? The spoiler may not be flat enough for dicor, especially where it curves along the back of the roof.But it looks like I could easily run lap sealant along the edge of the awning. Previously it was just silicone. Also, none of the screwheads on the spoiler or awning connections were covered before. Should I caulk or seal all of those as well for greater waterproofing? Thanks! |
Replies:
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 12:31pm
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Try using Etearnabond roof sealant tape on your spoiler. Consider sealing the top edge and side to allow for any condensation to weep out the bottom. I did this and it has held nicely for 2 years. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 10:42pm
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I would try non self leveling Dicor. The spoiler is a major issue. Silicone will pull away as the spoiler flexes. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 10:37pm
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Currently, because of warpage in the spoiler seating edge (a common issue), I am considering giving up on mere caulking and starting over with a new spoiler. The part is basically junk (it should have been rigid metal), and the location for it is not properly framed to permit it to be pulled down snug by screws into a bedding compound like butyl tape (as is done with windows). The spoiler is flexible, cheap plastic and snugging down screws leaves rainbow sections upheaved along the edge between the screws. In my case, one problem area has a good 3/8" or better gap. Soooo, I am toying with the idea of using butyl auto windshield bedding caulk to bed the spoiler (after removing the old one and sealing all wiring holes beneath it). Then, I will use a caulk of some kind to glaze the edge for insurance. Perhaps non-self leveling Dicor. BTW, Lostagain, were you using double sided Eternabond? ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:07am
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Tibof, I have the same soft plastic, way too flexible, spoiler that they put on as part of a recall over clearance lighting. When they installed it they put, likely, silicone caulk under it. There were gaps along the upper edge where they would function like a scupper and capture the water; a guaranteed leak. The sides and bottom had no gap issue. First I tried to fill the gaps with 3M 5200 caulk, but too many of the gaps were too big. So, I put 4" Eternabond tape along the side edges then across the top, overlaying the spoiler. I got a very good seal with no gaps anywhere and have had no leaks. I left the bottom untaped so as to provide an escape route for any water or condensation that could accumulate. I was a little worried about wind driven rain being pushed uphill up under the lower edge, but that has not turned out to be a problem. The bad thing about the tape is that it covers the screws that hold the spoiler on, so if I ever need to take it off, I have to deal with getting the tape off, but there are a number of solvents that will clean off the glue. What I am not sure about is how the 3 LED lights in the spoiler are installed. I don't know if they have to be changed from inside, or will pop out from the outside. But, LED lights last, for my purposes, basically for ever so the probability of having to deal with spoiler removal is pretty low. Hiere is a photo of the spoiler where you can see the installation. What appear to be little white bumps are where the surface is raised a little because of the screws but they're well sealed. https://postimages.org/">  ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:17am
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How do you think that taking a narrow aluminum strip, drilling it and using it on top of the leading edge of the spoiler to hold the leading edge down and help keep it from warping would work? Longer screws might be needed. This is what I am thinking: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-8-ft-x-3-4-in-Aluminum-Metal-Flat-Bar/3058159 - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-8-ft-x-3-4-in-Aluminum-Metal-Flat-Bar/3058159 The trailing edge I am not so concerned about as it would be draining any water that would happen to get underneath. On mine, the wires were well sealed going through the roof when I took the spoiler off mine. It was not so much that the edge had come up in my case, but that when I removed screws I noticed that while the edge had sealant, the screws were not sealed and showed evidence of rust which means they were allowing sufficient moisture in for them to rust. Since it went to the factory after our accident, it came back with the new style spoiler but I am seeing warping in it so I will likely re-do it. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:33am
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StephenH, that's one of the advantages of the Eternabond tape method. The screws are completely sealed. Using metal strip as a compression bar might work, but it will depend on whether the screws go only into the skin or go into a structural member. If, and it's more likely, they go only into the skin, there isn't enough withdrawal resistance and the screws will eventually work lose permitting moisture to enter. For the metal compression strip to work, you really need to have the screws go into one of the 2x2 cross members so they can be adequately tightened to achieve the needed compression to have a good seal between the roof and the spoiler. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:40am
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Thanks. I'll have to look for Eternabond tape in black since that is the color of the spoiler on our 179.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 12:23pm
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I have discovered that after requesting photos of my problem, FR would do nothing, which they could have done right off and eliminated the photo taking time and hassle (since they have a canned response). They simply noted that it is out of warranty and as a 2015 model year it may now be four years old! I simply asked for a good will provision of a spoiler. Nada. The spoiler is a large design defect issue; do a Google search. The new spoiler comes with a tape that you peal the face off, install, then caulk. It costs well over over $100 with shipping. Were anyone to inquire of my opinion, I would strongly recommend not to buy an R-Pod. I know from experience that there are companies out there that build and value a good reputation. FR is not one of them in my experience. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 4:26pm
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I get it you are not happy with Forest River, are you dealing with the Forest River factory of the dealership? We are on our second Rpod and have a warranty work done on both through the years and have been treated really well. ------------- Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 6:22pm
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I have tried to work with the dealer and with FR. Nothing, despite the fact that the spoiler leak is a widespread problem. Do a little research and you will find that I am not the Lone Ranger in my dissatisfaction with FR. Actually, I have been RVing with different brands for over 30 years. And I know a problem product and company when I encounter them. For starters, check out the owners who ARE covered by warranty and can't get the work done! There are companies that are willing to be problem solvers and maintain a good reputation. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 8:14pm
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OTOH, I have had great support from both my dealer and from Forest River for our 2016 RP179. I had several warranty items repaired before the warranty expired. I re-sealed the spoiler myself because it was out of warranty. One can't expect the factory to do warranty work on a spoiler that is out of warranty, especially since it is not difficult to re-seal it yourself. Even the newer style spoiler has the same issue with not being stiff enough to pull down evenly. These are built to be light. If you want a tank, then be prepared to purchase a vehicle capable of hauling a tank. Otherwise, accept that to keep the weight down, lightweight components that may not be a stiff as one would desire must be used to achieve the target weight of under 3,000 lbs. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 12:20pm
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With all due respect, a properly sealed spoiler has absolutely nothing to do with weight. Nothing. And while it is fair to say that warranty terms are normally binding, in the case of a defect, it is certainly not unreasonable to expect the manufacturer to be somewhat accommodating in addressing it. The problem is that the spoiler can't be properly sealed because of the way it buckles between the screws. As you, yourself, note, "...but I am seeing warping in it so I will likely re-do it." FR has addressed the potential of shearing wheel studs — even beyond warranty. I wonder why. I certainly do not expect FR or any manufacturer, to treat a warranty as a perpetual maintenance responsibility; but I do expect manufacturing defects to be addressed by the manufacturer (in some manner) regardless of warranty. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 12:44pm
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Shearing of wheel studs is a safety issue in which the NHTSB would mandate a recall if FR did not fix it voluntarily. Spoiler edge warping isn't.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 2:14pm
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That is the reason I built my own spoiler, 3 holes for screws 1 hole for power all caulked. Bottom edges of the spoiler has a gasket, three weeping holes at the bottom and 2 small vents. I have no problems. https://postimg.org/image/z8u44bn4r/">  https://postimg.org/image/njq4gdyqz/">  ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 2:25pm
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Of course. Not only is it a safety issue but one that could result in a law suit. But it is a defect taken care of beyond warranty. Why not invoke the warranty provisions on the studs? It's obvious. In fact, the spoiler is there because of lighting requirements imposed by the NHTSB. FR sought to be exempt but was denied. That. too, was a safety issue. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 6:37pm
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Tibof, this seems to be a BIG DEAL for you, but not for most buyers of R-Pods. Just seal it yourself and go camping and enjoy your R-Pod or sell it and get something more to your liking. One time before, there was a person who had bought an R-Pod and then came here and complained, complained, complained about FR quality. He sold it and bought a much larger camping trailer. I for one was glad he got something he wanted and stopped complaining in the forum about little things he could have done something about himself. Perhaps it is time for you to consider doing likewise. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 6:57pm
There actually have been several. One who was bitterly disappointed in the refrigerator's size, one who hated the air conditioner's noise and one who hated nearly everything but had never had is pod out camping. There are lots of RVs out there. If the Pod doesn't float your boat that is fine. Life is far to short to have things that should be fun annoy you. Find the one you like and use the heck out of it! ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 7:00pm
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+1 to StephenH. 2 years ago a friend of ours purchased a 5th wheel 45' long, triple axle, 6 slides, and 19,500 lb dry weight. It was not a cheap rig. Has he had problems? Yes. Some were covered by warranty and some he had to take care of himself. ------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 7:14pm
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+ 2 Life is to short to short to not be enjoying what you are doing! ------------- Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 11:07pm
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"podders Helping podders" Thanks for your help Leo. And thanks for yours, too, Keith — though the issue I've raised does not seem to have much to do with the likes of refrigerator size or air conditioner noise. In fact, it's only about a defective spoiler, not the entire Pod failing to float my boat. I appreciate the advice that you give, also, Stephen; a sort of "R-Pod, love it or leave it " proposition. I genuinely hope that you get your spoiler sealed before interior damage occurs. As for Jato's advice, I am very familiar with that course of action and am especially good at it. But I consider myself duly chastised for imagining that FR should put some skin in the game. With respect to life being too short, I might qualify as being abundantly familiar with the truth of that proposition. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 8:54am
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It isn't a "love it or leave it" proposition. It is being realistic about expecting FR to fix something they don't view as broken under warranty, especially since the warranty is long expired. I could have submitted items for warranty work, but the distance I would have had to tow our RP179 to the dealer would have carried costs far above the cost of fixing it myself. Do I think the R-Pod is perfect? Far from it. It has its share of problems. However, I prefer not to dwell on the problems, but fix them if I can so I can get out there and enjoy it. The spoiler's front side warping is not what I consider a major issue. Some non-sag lap sealant or Eternabond tape would fix that quickly and easily so why continue to harp on that same string? Fix it and get out there and enjoy your R-Pod. The leakage issue some experienced with the spoiler had to do with the wires not being sealed where they go through the roof to the lights. When I took mine off, the wires were well sealed with black silicone RTV sealant so no water could penetrate there even though the edge of the spoiler had lifted. It is also a good idea to have an area on the back side unsealed to allow any water that does get under there to escape. The one issue I did have was not that the edge had lifted which was easily fixed with non-sag lap sealant, but that the screws weren't sealed and when I removed them, I noticed rust on the screws. That also was easily fixed by sealing them when I reinstalled the spoiler. If you are concerned with the possibility of it leaking, remove the spoiler, clean it and the roof and reinstall it with fresh sealant. Removing is not difficult. After scraping off as much as the old sealant as you can, mineral spirits will remove the remainder without damaging the gel-coat or the plastic spoiler. Check to see that the wires are adequately sealed, then just reinstall the spoiler with fresh sealant. It isn't difficult. It does not take a lot of time or effort. It beats getting angry with FR for not fixing something that they do not view as defective. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 10:37am
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Stephen, read carefully. Aside from this matter having nothing to do with weight, refrigerator size, or air conditioner noise, nowhere have I suggested that FR should fix "something they don't regard as broken,"or cover it under warranty. In all of your comments, you have virtually no idea what I have asked FR to do. Earlier in this thread I outlined my likely approach to a DIY repair, a portion of which seems to have found its way back to me in your recommendation. In fact, you seemed somewhat baffled as to how to effect a repair on your own spoiler. If the front side edge is not a major issue, then it would probably not need the aluminum reinforcement strip you were considering. My participation here has nothing to do with anger. Rather, it began in an honest attempt to determine the best way to repair what the dealer himself conveyed to FR as "the notorious spoiler leak problem," for even the dealer did not present to me a recommendation. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 12:33pm
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In the final analysis, the spoiler needs to not leak. AFAIK, the only opening(s) are the opening for the lights, and the screw holes. Otherwise, letting water/rain just run through should theoretically be OK. So rather than attempting to seal up the spoiler, it might just be simpler to fill the wiring hole with a good sealant, and perhaps put a dab of sealant on each screw hole, and maybe changing the screws to stainless. Then if your sense of airflow is offended, maybe put some of that tape across the leading edge. I'm not meaning this to offend anyone, but am I missing something here? ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:10pm
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Thanks Glue — that's reasonable. And after pulling the spoiler and cleaning everything up, that is about what I had intended to do. Definitely plan to use stainless screws and caulk wiring holes as well as screw hole points in the filon. As for the Eternabond tape (which I have successfully used in other applications), I currently have that on the leading edge and the sides, but in the cold it seems not to have held very well despite the surface having been cleaned with Xylene. But I will likely also caulk the leading edge and sides with either Dicor or Proflex. My problem is a badly warped spoiler, so I have a new one on order. They come with some sort of adhesive tape already on them. We'll see. I understand your point about no concern for water under the spoiler once the wiring holes and screw holes are caulked, but I don't share your confidence. I believe the spoiler moves and pulls on the screws, and FR says the entire thing should be caulked. Weep outlets on the back side, however, may make sense.
------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:48pm
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I'm far from baffled. Having the front end bowing up between screws is not a big deal for me. However, I also don't like gaps in the sealant on the leading edge so sealing it, whether by sealant, some sort of bar to spread the force of the screws to include between them, or by something like Eternabond tape is viable. On your new spoiler, you will find that the foam is going to force the spaces between the screws up and you will eventually end up with the same issue. The plastic of the spoiler is not stiff enough to prevent that, even on the new style spoiler that is straight and not curved at the top. Marwayne's solution is the only one that will give you one that won't eventually have the gaps between the screws.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:52pm
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Another thought I had was that you might be able to "fix" the spoiler? I don't know what the spoiler is made of; it looks like plastic, but I don't know what kind. I've worked with fiberglass and epoxy, and polyester resins. I think you might be able to reinforce/thicken the leading edge of the spoiler with an inch-wide strip of fiberglass. Maybe only one or two layers. This would make it much less likely to warp when screwed down. Maybe more work than it's worth, but I am sometimes known for my propensity for fix overkill. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:20pm
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The spoiler appears to be made of either ABS or polypropylene plastic. While it is rigid, it is not stiff enough to pull down evenly and over time as the foam wants to expand, it pushes the plastic up between screws where mechanical force is holding it down. That is what appears to be causing the issue. Edit: If the wires are adequately sealed and if there is a gap at the lower, back edge to let water out, then a gap at the leading edge is not a big deal. The water will simply run out through the back end. If, however, the wires were not adequately sealed and the back end is sealed tight but the front isn't, then it would cause problems as water accumulates underneath with no place to go but through the unsealed hole. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:42pm
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GlueGuy, the spoiler is made of soft flexible plastic, probably some kind of vinyl with a flex additive and it's isn't likely that fiberglass would stick well. Another option would be to use the old spoiler as the template for a mold and recast a new spoiler made of fiberglass, but that's a lot of work if you don't have a workshop set up for fiberglass. Tibof, I note that you used xylene as your cleaning agent. It may leave enough of a residue that it doesn't work well with the adhesive in the Eternabond tape glue. You may want to try cleaning the surface where the tape would be attached with denatured alcohol to get better adhesion. The Eternabond site [https://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/eb_hvac_tips_install.pdf] gives instructions on the installation. They claim that the product maintains flexibility between - 70º F and >200º F, so cold temperatures shouldn't cause it to crack and come lose. Take a look at their web site for more product information. They suggest several solvents, but xylene wasn't among them. In the end, FR should have designed a more rigid spoiler made of fiberglass with a base wide enough to accept caulk or some kind of sealing tape or attached to the roof with fiberglass to become an integral part of the roof. Or make one of metal like the really cool one marwayne made, but they didn't and we can either fix what they supplied as best we can or pay a fabricator to make one of fiberglass or metal if it can't be made in a home shop. But, given the trailer choices out there in the price range of the Pod, no one is really any better and they all have their design and construction defects that have to be fixed. For me, the Eternabond tape solution has been an inexpensive, effective, easy, and trouble free remedy for someone else's mistake. It's all part of the ongoing process of tweaking a low cost, practical, and basically well designed trailer to make it a little better and more reliable. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:23pm
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Here is my two cents worth. If podders with white spoilers have a problem just think about the podders that have a black spoiler, I bet you can fry an egg on the spoiler when the sun beats on it. With that being sad something has to give, it wouldn't surprise me that there is enough force from buckling that might even pull some of the screws out of the skin. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:50pm
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We have not experienced screws pulling out. However, when the sun beats down on the black plastic, it can soften. That exacerbates the buckling between the screws. It does not appear that there is enough force to loosen them. Expansion and contraction of a metal spoiler would also have issues though perhaps not the same as those of the plastic spoiler. As for cleaning with xylene, it is a rather aggressive solvent. It is not one I would use on my R-Pod. It is always best to see what the manufacturer of the product one wants to use recommends for surface preparation. Denatured alcohol is what Dicor recommends. If Eternabond also recommends it, then that is what I would use. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 10:36pm
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Xylene is indeed an aggressive solvent. I've used it on RV skins for years with no problem, as long as you don't let a dampened cloth sit on the surface. Alcohol is often good, but not especially effective on caulks like silicone. Naptha is also something that I use, for it is a common solvent for auto paint preparation. After using the Xylene for cleaning the surface, perhaps I should hav e finished up with alcohol. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 8:53am
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I have used Jasco Green Odorless Mineral Spirits to remove excess lap sealant followed by denatured alcohol to do the final surface preparation. That has worked well.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lgblau
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 11:39am
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Leo, You are definately in the minority. ------------- Leonard🌵 2017/179 2017 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2018 at 10:33pm
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New spoiler arrived today. Around the base at the edge is an applied spongy foam insulation type tape, about half an inch or so wide and 3/16 to 1/4 thick. It has obvious joints in it that are not mated so as to seal. The surface of the tape is just the foam, no adhesive. The foam tape seems to have no function with respect to sealing. It's just a cushion. FR seems to say (I am seeking clarification) just screw it down and caulk around it. IMHO, it would be better to remove the foam tape and bed the spoiler in windshield type butyl caulk. Then caulk around it. Unless I am really missing something, this is a real design flaw. I believe the spoiler can be sealed (if that is even necessary), but not with the foam tape in place. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 9:19am
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I agree. The foam tape is the problem. Without that, there would not be the pushing up between the screws.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lgblau
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 10:03am
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Hi.....Are you saying that thereis a foam strip under the black metal trim. I tried, using longer screws, to close the gap at the forward edge of my M179, but still could not close it completely. ------------- Leonard🌵 2017/179 2017 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 10:20am
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I have just been informed by FR that the foam tape is butyl. Either this is something entirely new to me or FR is playing games. The exposed surface of the tape is just like the stuff you would put around a door to keep out the draft. There is no adhesive to it, except on the one attaching side. Moreover, it is applied in such a sloppy manner that it has seams that do not seal against one another, My difficulty now is whether to use it as FR recommends (screw down and caulk around) or remove it and replace it with real butyl tape or viscous butyl caulk. The only problem with real butyl tape is the spoiler is not rigid enough and the screws don't get enough bite to properly compress it. But the caulk might work. Insights? Igblau, black metal trim? Its just the plastic spoiler. Then the foam tape under the edge.
------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: lgblau
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 12:55pm
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Sorry Tibof...I got my posts mixed up, and put my mouth in motion before putting my mind in gear. ------------- Leonard🌵 2017/179 2017 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 5:37pm
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Stephen, I finally ran across the 9/16 post of your spoiler repair. First, has it lasted well. Second, you mention running a bead of Dicor non-self leveling sealant before installing the spoiler, making sure to cover the screw holes. Did you first remove the foam tape? I have reached the tentative conclusion the foam tape may be to prevent air from entering and lifting the spoiler, for it certainly does not prevent water from entering. My present inclination, while waiting for suitable weather, is to remove the foam tape and bed the spoiler in either the Dicor or a butyl viscous calk, or round butyl ribbon bedding tape (3/16", as the spoiler lip is 1/8" deep). It would be good to learn from someone who has addressed this successfully, for a re-do is a lot of work. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2018 at 7:06pm
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I didn't remove the foam. The hardest part was cleaning off the old Dicor sealant.
It lasted well until it had to go to the factory for the accident repair. The roof was replaced as was the spoiler. I haven't gotten around to getting on the roof to check this spring. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 10:08am
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So you ran a Dicor bead over the foam? I am wondering what to do with the foam. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 11:41am
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I ran a bead and set the foam on that, then made sure the edge was sealed. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 12:19pm
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Thanks much Stephen. Forest River now informs me the the function of the foam is only to seal the screws! Really poor design. I am going to remove the foam and use something like butyl or Dicor to bed the spoiler. Screw holes are now identified and can easily be sealed in advance of running in the screws. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 11:11pm
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Part of the difficulty in sealing the spoiler is that it is made from what appears to be polyethylene (LDPE) plastic (Like a Walmart storage tub). The advantage is it’s inexpensive to produce. The downside is that it’s very difficult to find an adhesive or sealant that will adhere to it. Even the adhesive foam tape on a new one peals right off. The sealant used on the LED running lights on the inside of the spoiler appears to be regular automotive RTV gasket making sealant. It rolls right off clean if you rub it with you finger. No adhesion. 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant will bond to it but is permanent. Truly permanent. 3M 4200 bonds very well and is not permanent. I intend to remove the foam tape, rough the bottom edge of the spoiler and then bed it on a thick bead of 4200, screw it down with stainless screws, and caulk around the outside edge, probably with more 4200. I don’t believe silicone adheres to it. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:31am
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However from my experience, the lap sealant (not the self-leveling, but the no-run type) seems to adhere quite well. You may wish to use that for bedding and sealing the spoiler.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 10:35am
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Thanks Stephen. I've planned to check the Dicor before investing in the 4200. Though the 4200 is both a sealant and a fairly strong adhesive. Did you run the lap sealant around the outside edge, also. Clearly, silicone is unsatisfactory for that purpose.
------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 5:02pm
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If I remember correctly, I did run it to overlap the outside edge a little. It has been a while since I did that and that spoiler got replaced when the roof got repaired so I can't check.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: tjdmobile
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 5:16pm
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This has been an interesting thread. I had no idea I would need to be looking at resealing anything on our new RPOD for some time to come. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 179 2014 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew |
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 5:26pm
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They require maintenance and upkeep, much more so than a vehicle. There is always something that needs a fix, touch up or maintenance. They require care and effort. I see people abuse cars all the time, basically they drive them till they stop or the wheels fall off. I tell folks if you own an RV be prepared to do maintenance and repair. If not - RENT One. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 7:26pm
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+1
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 5:21pm
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FR is using this to seal the spoiler. I spoke with the manufacturer. Very helpful and probably the best alternative. Don’t use silicone. It does not adhere to the LDPE material of the spoiler. 270341437 XTRM Universal white non-SAG sealant. Google the part number and you will find it. It is allegedly a more aggressive version of non- sag Dicor. Mfg suggests bedding spoiler in it and caulking around it with it. Remove the foam tape, for it does nothing but make for spoiler war page. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: SC for Huskers
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 6:02pm
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Maybe a stupid question. Why have the spoiler or what does it really do? ------------- Happy Traveling, Tom 2017 172pod 2011 F150 STX |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 6:33pm
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When I was at the factory to pick ours up from being repaired, I asked that question. 1. I was told that with the original design, the wind coming down from the top tended to rip the cover off the spare tire. The spoiler changes the air flow so this does not happen. What was mentioned in the forum is this. 2. The original design did not have the marker lights on the top. This provided a place to mount them. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 6:44pm
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I noticed today a problem with the caulking on our escaPOD. The caulking applied when it went up to the factory for repair has mildewed. I took some bleach to it and most of the black mold is gone. I'll hit it up again if needed but will be looking to re-caulk those seams before we travel. I also intend to contact Forest River to ask about this. http://hafflys.linkpc.net:8008/R-Pod/mildew1.png"> 
Since the mildew was also visible in the sealant around the spoiler, I think I would avoid this product and go with the Dicor non-sag sealant instead. I have not noticed any mildew in the older sealant around the slide-out or on the brown Dicor self-leveling sealant that is on the flat parts of the roof. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 7:26pm
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Meanwhile, my Eternabond sealing job is cruising along for over a year, absolutely trouble free. White vinegar and borax also help get rid of mold. Can't say for the caulk, but bleach doesn't penetrate wood very well, thus only kills the surface stuff. You need to get at the hyphae that are below the surface to really stop it. There are also a bunch of mold and mildew cleaners available at marine supplies (it's a constant problem on boats) and they are compatible with fiberglass and caulkings. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 21 May 2018 at 3:11pm
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Bought a new spoiler from FR at full cost. The original spoiler was too warped to work with. Removed the old spoiler and cleaned up everything carefully. Seal job was derelict. Foam tape serves no purpose. Unfortunately, the new spoiler has screw detents that do not match the original (and many original screws were installed at a 45 degree angle or worse), and fewer screws on the lower edge. So had to use glue and dowels to fill old screw holes, since the new screws would be close in some instances. Used 3M Scotchlok 314 connectors, as OEM in new spoiler, to connect wires fro running lights. Then used 3M 4200 caulk to run a small bead over the dowel heads and holes for new screws (new stainless screws #8). Then ran a ring finger size bead of the 4200 around roughed mating surface of spoiler and set it in place (two person job with a 2 X 8 sheet of plywood on roof for one person to be up there). The little lip edge on the spoiler was left there. Painters tape outlined the spoiler placement on the roof and prevented mess from squeeze out of caulk. It's very sticky stuff. Finally, after all the 4200 cured (24 hours), I ran a good bead of the XTRM Universal non-sag sealant around the seam of the entire spoiler. If that repair does not keep it dry, nothing will. Just referencing my own, personal experience, the quality of work I encountered in the repair was very, very poor. And, under the spoiler attaching screw points, there is no framing, just the filon sheeting. IMHO, there's no excuse for this. And it is not necessary as a cost saver in manufacturing. BTW, the reason I settled on the 3M 4200 for a bedding sealant is that it is a very strong (though removable) adhesive as well as a sealant. So I didn't have to use a full array of screws, and I screwed the spoiler down just to make contact with the roof, not to deform it. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 22 May 2018 at 12:20pm
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My bad. While the 3M data sheet specified 4200 as an adhesive/sealant for LDPE (which the spoiler is made of), it does not function that way. I experimented with some on the old spoiler and it will peel off after cured. My repair may still work well, however, because the 4200 does adhere quite well to the filon roof. And the outer edge caulk is basically a Dicor type sealant and seems ok. Lots of searching comes up with nothing that caulks/seals LDPE. It is widely known as very difficult in this regard. There is something that does adhere quite well, however, and was used by FR to seal the wiring hole and the running lights on the original 2015 spoiler (but not the new one). I am trying to learn what that stuff is. ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 22 May 2018 at 4:50pm
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I would think that you would want to keep the bottom (aft) part of the spoiler open i.e. no caulk. The idea being that you want to keep water from coming in from the top, but allow water to escape at the bottom. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 22 May 2018 at 5:22pm
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With all those holes in the roof from the old spoiler, I'd be inclined to put epoxy a fiberglass strip covering the footprint of the spoiler onto the roof. You could add at least 2 - 4mm of thickness to the roof, making it a little stiffer, sealing the old screw holes, and giving you a fresh base on which to mount the new spoiler. You'd have to sand the gelcoat to get a good bond, but I don't think the gelcoat is likely to be very thick. West Systems makes really good epoxy products that would work for such a repair. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 22 May 2018 at 11:23pm
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I considered that Glue Guy but decided against it. I worry *probably unnecessarily, about vacuum pulling water in. As for the old screw holes, they are very well filled with glued dowel and then covered with 4200, which will adhere very well to the roof itself. But if all fails, I am going to make a 1/8 inch thick aluminum frame for the inner perimeter footprint of the spoiler and bond it to the roof (which 3m 5200 will do very well). Then mount the spoiler on that. There remains the issue of sealing the spoiler to that however. The proper material for mounting an item like the spoiler is butyl tape. But the material and design of the spoiler does not permit that. No RV should have this issue. Given the OEM mounting of the spoilers, they will inevitably leak, for the only water seal is the Dicor type material around the outer edge.
------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 23 May 2018 at 1:47am
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The spoiler itself can leak as long as the screws are sealed, the wires are well sealed where they penetrate the roof, and there is at least one weep hole to let out any water that does get in. Making sure the wires are sealed is the critical item.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 23 May 2018 at 8:43am
------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: Tibof
Date Posted: 23 May 2018 at 1:02pm
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If the wiring is sealed, the only access for water into the Pod are the screw holes. In the OEM set up, the screw holes will leak for sure if water gets in (I believe regardless of weep holes), for nothing seals them. And some were actually doubled leaving an empty hole in manufacture. I believe that I have the screw holes sealed very well, as well as the screw heads. We shall see. In any case, the OEM set up is ............(kind words fail me). Repair and maintenance is one thing that an RV owner expects. But addressing a design flaw is another matter altogether. BTW, I have finally learned that the 3M 4200 I used does function as an adhesive/sealant on LDPE plastics, just at a lower shear rate than other materials. Shear rate is 20#/square inch on the LDPE and much higher on the filon roofing. So that is more than sufficient for my purposes. Oh, and more research and talking informs me that the spoiler leakage is a well known issue. There is a fix, but it would cost about $10 in the mfg. process. Also, it is known that the folks on the assembly line torque the screws so much that it makes for eventual bulges in the age of the spoiler, thereby pulling the spoiler and its sealant away from the roof. The existing design "makes leaking inevitable." ------------- 2015 Pod Hood River Edition 2012 Tacoma Crew Cab 4 Liter |
Posted By: riotkayak284
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 12:23pm
| +1 on the Eternabond... fixed mine and very easy. |
Posted By: bigcat
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 2:45pm
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Hey there, has anyone used the EternaClean cleaner for cleaning and prep prior to applying the Eternabond tape? Just curious if it's safe for the Pod's roof surface. Also, I've read on other RV maintenance blogs that you don't have to remove the factory installed sealant around the other roof fixtures because the Eternabond will adhere to it just fine. Is that true? It seems like it would be a bugger to remove the factory sealant. Thanks! ------------- Big Cat 2017 179 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 2:57pm
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Dicor is pretty easy to peel up. I used a 1" plastic putty knife. Yes, if the Eternabond is wide enough, you could just cover the Dicor. My OCD wouldn't allow it. LOL ------------- |
Posted By: bigcat
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 3:03pm
Thanks for the quick reply, furpod!
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Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 4:37pm
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When I went with eternabond I also purchased the cleaner and primer. The dicor removes easily with minimal scraping, if you decide to do that. It's my winter project when I can put Pod away in building. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: wooleeman
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 7:47pm
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I attributed the leak to my spoiler. Covered the mounting screws (front and sides) with Eternabond and have not seen a drop of water through all of this rain that we have had in the east. ------------- 2022 RP-202 2016 RP-179 (Sold 9/2020) 2014 Silverado Crew Cab. 6-1/2' Bed Golden Retriever (DOB 6/16/2020) English Bulldog (RIP 6/15/2020) |
Posted By: bigcat
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 9:05pm
------------- Big Cat 2017 179 |
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2018 at 8:52am
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Really your choice, the removal makes the application smoother. AND with the eternabond you really don't need the dicor. That being said, you can install it right over the dicor once it is cleaned and primed. I know that is a wimpy answer, the dicor is not hard to remove, to me it looked better with dicor removed. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: Phil from Maine
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 2:37pm
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I found this thread while searching for answers regarding a brown colored water leak that runs down the inside rear of my 172 ceiling-wall just above the window. I had previously bought ProFlex sealant after having two different RV shops recommend it. I removed all the existing old sealant and examined the spoiler up close. As everyone has stated, the spoiler is not a good fit. It bows out between sheet metal screws apparently due to differential expansion coefficients. Also, some of the screws are severely rusting out. The leak inside the camper was a rust color so I surmised that the leak was from water passing over the screws and out through the screw holes. The screws I took out were severely rusted to the point that they were no longer #10 screws. So, as others have said, all those screws should be replaced with Stainless steel screws. My temporarily fix was to re-seal the spoiler and to also put sealant over the screw heads to prevent further water infiltration. When the season is over, hopefully I can find an indoor space to fix it more permenately.
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Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 6:01pm
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Phil, you'll find a bunch of threads on this topic, many with pictures. Go to advanced search and expand the time frame to the last 2 or years. One of the most effective fixes, which we used on our 172 with an add on spoiler, was to use 4" wide Eternabond tape. I put it on the first year we had the trailer and it was still in great shape and stopping leaks 3 years later when I sold the trailer. Leave the bottom, or aft, side of the spoiler open to allow condensation to drain. Also put the tape on the sides first, then across the top so you'll overlap from above like shingles or flashing. You can get Eternabond tape on Amazon as well as most RV supply houses. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |