Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler

+1

Maybe a stupid question.  Why have the spoiler or what does it really do?

I noticed today a problem with the caulking on our escaPOD. The caulking applied when it went up to the factory for repair has mildewed. I took some bleach to it and most of the black mold is gone. I'll hit it up again if needed but will be looking to re-caulk those seams before we travel. I also intend to contact Forest River to ask about this.

Originally posted by Tibof FR is using this to seal the spoiler. I spoke with the manufacturer. Very helpful and probably the best alternative. Don’t use silicone. It does not adhere to the LDPE material of the spoiler. 270341437 XTRM Universal white non-SAG sealant. Google the part number and you will find it. It is allegedly a more aggressive version of non- sag Dicor. Mfg suggests bedding spoiler in it and caulking around it with it. Remove the foam tape, for it does nothing but make for spoiler war page.

Since the mildew was also visible in the sealant around the spoiler, I think I would avoid this product and go with the Dicor non-sag sealant instead. I have not noticed any mildew in the older sealant around the slide-out or on the brown Dicor self-leveling sealant that is on the flat parts of the roof.

Bought a new spoiler from FR at full cost.  The original spoiler was too warped to work with.  Removed the old spoiler and cleaned up everything carefully.  Seal job was derelict.  Foam tape serves no purpose.  Unfortunately, the new spoiler has screw detents that do not match the original (and many original screws were installed at a 45 degree angle or worse), and fewer screws on the lower edge.  So had to use glue and dowels to fill old screw holes, since the new screws would be close in some instances.  Used 3M Scotchlok 314 connectors, as OEM in new spoiler, to connect wires fro running lights.  Then used 3M 4200 caulk to run a small bead over the dowel heads and holes for new screws (new stainless screws #8).  Then ran a ring finger size bead of the 4200 around roughed mating surface of spoiler and set it in place (two person job with a 2 X 8 sheet of plywood on roof for one person to be up there).  The little lip edge on the spoiler was left there.  Painters tape outlined the spoiler placement on the roof and prevented mess from squeeze out of caulk.  It's very sticky stuff.  Finally, after all the 4200 cured (24 hours), I ran a good bead of the XTRM Universal  non-sag sealant around the seam of the entire spoiler.  If that repair does not keep it dry, nothing will.  Just referencing my own, personal experience, the quality of work I encountered in the repair was very, very poor.  And, under the spoiler attaching screw points, there is no framing, just the filon sheeting.  IMHO, there's no excuse for this.  And it is not necessary as a cost saver in manufacturing.  BTW, the reason I settled on the 3M 4200 for a bedding sealant is that it is a very strong (though removable) adhesive as well as a sealant.  So I didn't have to use a full array of screws, and I screwed the spoiler down just to make contact with the roof, not to deform it.

I would think that you would want to keep the bottom (aft) part of the spoiler open i.e. no caulk. The idea being that you want to keep water from coming in from the top, but allow water to escape at the bottom.