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Topic ClosedSealing/caulking awning and spoiler

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Tibof View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
    Posted: 23 May 2018 at 1:02pm
If the wiring is sealed, the only access for water into the Pod are the screw holes.  In the OEM set up, the screw holes will leak for sure if water gets in (I believe regardless of weep holes), for nothing seals them.  And some were actually doubled leaving an empty hole in manufacture.   I believe that I have the screw holes sealed very well, as well as the screw heads.  We shall see.  In any case, the OEM set up is ............(kind words fail me).  Repair and maintenance is one thing that an RV owner expects.  But addressing a design flaw is another matter altogether.  BTW, I have finally learned that the 3M 4200 I used does function as an adhesive/sealant on LDPE plastics, just at a lower shear rate than other materials.  Shear rate is 20#/square inch on the LDPE and much higher on the filon roofing.  So that is more than sufficient for my purposes.  Oh, and more research and talking informs me that the spoiler leakage is a well known issue.  There is a fix, but it would cost about $10 in the mfg. process.  Also, it is known that the folks on the assembly line torque the screws so much that it makes for eventual bulges in the age of the spoiler, thereby pulling the spoiler and its sealant away from the roof.  The existing design "makes leaking inevitable."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2018 at 8:43am
Originally posted by StephenH

The spoiler itself can leak as long as the screws are sealed, the wires are well sealed where they penetrate the roof, and there is at least one weep hole to let out any water that does get in. Making sure the wires are sealed is the critical item.
That's what I'm thinking. As long as all the holes underneath the spoiler are sealed, the sealing of the spoiler itself is unrelated. Providing an exit for water would seem the right thing to do.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2018 at 1:47am
The spoiler itself can leak as long as the screws are sealed, the wires are well sealed where they penetrate the roof, and there is at least one weep hole to let out any water that does get in. Making sure the wires are sealed is the critical item.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2018 at 11:23pm
I considered that Glue Guy but decided against it.  I worry *probably unnecessarily, about vacuum pulling water in.  As for the old screw holes, they are very well filled with glued dowel and then covered with 4200, which will adhere very well to the roof itself.  But if all fails, I am going to make a 1/8 inch thick aluminum frame for the inner perimeter footprint of the spoiler and bond it to the roof (which 3m 5200 will do very well).  Then mount the spoiler on that.  There remains the issue of sealing the spoiler to that however.  The proper material for mounting an item like the spoiler is butyl tape.  But the material and design of the spoiler does not permit that.  No RV should have this issue.  Given the OEM mounting of the spoilers, they will inevitably leak, for the only water seal is the Dicor type material around the outer edge.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2018 at 5:22pm
With all those holes in the roof from the old spoiler, I'd be inclined to put epoxy a fiberglass strip covering the footprint of the spoiler onto the roof.  You could add at least 2 - 4mm of thickness to the roof, making it a little stiffer, sealing the old screw holes, and giving you a fresh base on which to mount the new spoiler.  You'd have to sand the gelcoat to get a good bond, but I don't think the gelcoat is likely to be very thick.  West Systems makes really good epoxy products that would work for such a repair.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2018 at 4:50pm
I would think that you would want to keep the bottom (aft) part of the spoiler open i.e. no caulk. The idea being that you want to keep water from coming in from the top, but allow water to escape at the bottom.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2018 at 12:20pm
My bad.  While the 3M data sheet specified 4200 as an adhesive/sealant for LDPE (which the spoiler is made of), it does not function that way.  I experimented with some on the old spoiler and it will peel off after cured.  My repair may still work well, however, because the 4200 does adhere quite well to the filon roof.  And the outer edge caulk is basically a Dicor type sealant and seems ok.  Lots of searching comes up with nothing that caulks/seals LDPE.  It is widely known as very difficult in this regard.  There is something that does adhere quite well, however, and was used by FR to seal the wiring hole and the running lights on the original 2015 spoiler (but not the new one).  I am trying to learn what that stuff is.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 3:11pm
Bought a new spoiler from FR at full cost.  The original spoiler was too warped to work with.  Removed the old spoiler and cleaned up everything carefully.  Seal job was derelict.  Foam tape serves no purpose.  Unfortunately, the new spoiler has screw detents that do not match the original (and many original screws were installed at a 45 degree angle or worse), and fewer screws on the lower edge.  So had to use glue and dowels to fill old screw holes, since the new screws would be close in some instances.  Used 3M Scotchlok 314 connectors, as OEM in new spoiler, to connect wires fro running lights.  Then used 3M 4200 caulk to run a small bead over the dowel heads and holes for new screws (new stainless screws #8).  Then ran a ring finger size bead of the 4200 around roughed mating surface of spoiler and set it in place (two person job with a 2 X 8 sheet of plywood on roof for one person to be up there).  The little lip edge on the spoiler was left there.  Painters tape outlined the spoiler placement on the roof and prevented mess from squeeze out of caulk.  It's very sticky stuff.  Finally, after all the 4200 cured (24 hours), I ran a good bead of the XTRM Universal  non-sag sealant around the seam of the entire spoiler.  If that repair does not keep it dry, nothing will.  Just referencing my own, personal experience, the quality of work I encountered in the repair was very, very poor.  And, under the spoiler attaching screw points, there is no framing, just the filon sheeting.  IMHO, there's no excuse for this.  And it is not necessary as a cost saver in manufacturing.  BTW, the reason I settled on the 3M 4200 for a bedding sealant is that it is a very strong (though removable) adhesive as well as a sealant.  So I didn't have to use a full array of screws, and I screwed the spoiler down just to make contact with the roof, not to deform it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 7:26pm
Meanwhile, my Eternabond sealing job is cruising along for over a year, absolutely trouble free.  

White vinegar and borax also help get rid of mold.  Can't say for the caulk, but bleach doesn't penetrate wood very well, thus only kills the surface stuff.  You need to get at the hyphae that are below the surface to really stop it.  There are also a bunch of mold and mildew cleaners available at marine supplies (it's a constant problem on boats) and they are compatible with fiberglass and caulkings.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 6:44pm
I noticed today a problem with the caulking on our escaPOD. The caulking applied when it went up to the factory for repair has mildewed. I took some bleach to it and most of the black mold is gone. I'll hit it up again if needed but will be looking to re-caulk those seams before we travel. I also intend to contact Forest River to ask about this.



Originally posted by Tibof

FR is using this to seal the spoiler. I spoke with the manufacturer. Very helpful and probably the best alternative. Don’t use silicone. It does not adhere to the LDPE material of the spoiler. 270341437
XTRM Universal white non-SAG sealant. Google the part number and you will find it. It is allegedly a more aggressive version of non- sag Dicor. Mfg suggests bedding spoiler in it and caulking around it with it. Remove the foam tape, for it does nothing but make for spoiler war page. 


Since the mildew was also visible in the sealant around the spoiler, I think I would avoid this product and go with the Dicor non-sag sealant instead. I have not noticed any mildew in the older sealant around the slide-out or on the brown Dicor self-leveling sealant that is on the flat parts of the roof.
StephenH
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