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TeeBrock View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Electrical Problems
    Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 8:37am
Good Morning All-
I could use some help from all you electrical guru's. I arrived in Lone Oak, Tx, 3 days ago and encurred an electrical problem.After setting up, I noticed the refrigerator wasn't acting normal and the display was "fading" (for lack of a better term), Within an hours time, I lost all lights and the refrigerator, I am not very knowlegable with elec issues, but I tried troubleshooting by doing the following:
  • Turned the power off at the post and disconnected the cable to the Pod
  • Unhooked the battery, then hooked it back up
  • Checked the fuses and breakers-nothing seemed affected
  • Checked all GFI's and discovered that the outlets work
  • Television works (cannot use because the King antenna directional unit doesn't show strength meter and the amplifier does not work)
  • Microwave works
Here's my thoughts- I "think" it's either a converter problem OR a bad switch that tells the unit to switch from 12volt to power from the 30amp service (which subsequently, ran the battery down by not switching off the 12volt. 
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Confused Tee

I am going out now to plug the 7-way back into my vehicle and let it run for awhile hoping to regain a charge in my battery.
Tee
and Sadie (Chocolate Lab)
2017.5 RP 180
2006 Kia Sorento
2002 BMW R1150RS
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 8:50am
There is no switch. The 120v side and the 12v side are separate systems. The only interface they have is the 12v charging from the 120v converter.

The symptoms you describe are of a dead 12v system. Check to make sure the breaker that feeds the converter isn't tripped.
Next thing to check, not on the regular fuse panel, but to it's left, are 2, 40A fuses. Those protect from accidental reverse polarity from the battery. MAKE SURE those are not blown.

The next step is to make sure the converter is getting 120v. You need a multi meter for that.
If it's getting power, but not sending out 12v, converter is bad.

To charge the battery, the 7way is absolutely the worst way to handle the situation. Use jumper cables. Truck battery to Pod battery. They will send literally 10X the amps.

As a temporary solution, go to wally world and buy a automotive battery charger. Hook it to the battery and plug in. Many a trip has been salvaged with one.
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 9:13am
Curious, as I just replaced my WFCO converter due to a charging problem.  They discussion is under warranty, service and recall.  Here are some steps you can take to see if your converter is working;  In the distribution center there are two DC fuses to the left of the distribution fuses.  They are each 40 amp, if I recall correctly.  They protect the converter from inadvertent reversing of polarity.  In the WFCO trouble shooting diagnosis tree, they tell you to remove these fuses and check on the distribution board to see if there is a charge at the VCC lug on the fuse board.  On the top left of the board, you'll see a red and white cable connected to the board.  That's where you should have at least 13.3 volts.  If you don't, you have a bad converter.  You can get one from Amazon over night.  

On both the Amazon site and the WFCO site there is a video on how to replace the converter.  It's really easy and shouldn't take more than a half an hour if you don't mind wallowing around on the floor a bit.

Be sure you have all power turned off while replacing your converter, both AC and DC.  And, it's a good idea to retighten all of the screws that connect wires in the AC part of the panel as well as the DC.  The screws tend to loosen over time and need to be re-torqued.  If they are not tight they can cause a fire.

Here is the url for WFCO:  www.wfcoelectronics.com

Hope this helps.
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Fred & Maria Kearney
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 10:25am
Get prepared to buy an automotive battery charger.  When your converter goes bad, which mine has done twice now, a battery charge can save the camping trip.  it will keep your battery charged, all things 12 volt will work and you can continue using your trailer until you return home.  Then plan on replacing your Waco junk converter with a Progressive Dynamic unit.  Direct replacement.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 11:05am
As you are in a 180, I will repost this...

I had issues with two converters in my 2017 180.  I wrote about my theory and fix here:  
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8847&KW=converter&title=theory-on-failed-power-converters-possible-fix 

I have not had a single issue (knock on wood) since this fix, which has now been easily more than 40,000 miles ago.  Davidb experienced the same failure and upon inspection discovered 

"...Placed circuit board under magnifier lamp and noticed one of the legs on one the devices (MOSFET) that is connected to the aluminum heat-sink is sheared in two.
Obviously a vibration issue..."

I feel it's a design flaw with the 180s.

As others have stated above, a cheap battery charger from Walmart will get you through until repairs are made.  I wouldn't hesitate to have it repaired under warranty and then de-wiggle the tray with a piece of foam insulation to keep it from happening again.
Former 2017 rPod 180 owner
Now in a 2019 Little Guy MAX
Full timer who logs more than 35,000 miles per year.
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 11:44am
Hmmm, I didn't know there was such antipathy to WFCO.  Mine lasted 8 years, which given the service environment (as suggested by Chet's comments on wiggling), it did pretty well.  I think I'll stick a little dampening stuff under the tray just to be sure.  If it conks out again, after the two year warranty, I'll certainly look into other brands and appreciate the suggestion of flat6s that a Progressive Dynamic converter is more reliable.  A question for flat:  it just slides right in like the WFCO, with the screws aligning and everything?  

As for losing your 12 v while camping, this is one reason why I carry a 100 amp solar panel.  We rarely camp where we can plug into AC to run a charger.  When I need to, though, I use the automotive charger I bought many years ago for my Newport 30 30 years ago.  It just takes forever to recharge at 10 amps output.  Yet another left over sailboat thing that I repurposed and it's still going strong.
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
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Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:32pm
Well all-
I appreciate all the responses regarding the"converter" issue. I'm at an RV park in Texas and tried to get "my R Pod Dealer"  to send me the converteo, but they don't want to do that. I don't have the time to drive 45 miles for a trouble-shooting party without having the parts in stock. So....wish me luck as I call them back and insist the mail me the converter!
Tee
and Sadie (Chocolate Lab)
2017.5 RP 180
2006 Kia Sorento
2002 BMW R1150RS
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Wood River Pod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:42pm
I need some clarification. Headed out for a 10 day trip and want to have the answer before I head out.  IF...my WFCO dies on the trip, and I use the jumper cable and/or batter charger method, how do I hook it up to my dual 6 volt batteries?  Do I charge both at the same time with one connection to the +  on one and one to the - on the other?  Or do I charge each battery independently?  My gut says hook it up just like the wires form the WFCO, but this wouldn't be the first time I've learned something new.  

The battery charger seems to be the safer as it would have an auto shut off to make sure I'm not cooking the battery.  We also have solar for when we are off the grid, but want to be sure when we have access to power if this happens.  It's not going to happen...but I want to be prepared.  
Thanks
Smith's in Hailey
Early 2017 179 HRE

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:50pm
TeeBrock,
I had the same failure last year in UP Michigan.  I figured out that the onboard converter charges the battery and runs the 12 volt items.   A simple automotive battery charger is the same thing.  It will charge your battery and run your 12 volt items.  No big deal and it works great.  Besides, you should carry a small battery charger with for just such an occasion.  I turned it off at night and ran just off the battery, then turned the charger on every morning.  Used it the way for 2 weeks until I got back home again in Indiana, then replaced the defective WFCO charger with a much better Progressive Dynamics unit.

Lostagain.... Yes the Progressive Dynamics is identical plug and play.  I am not much good at electrical, so I took my time,  studied it,  then about an hour later it was installed.  Everything Matched up perfectly and no modifications were. needed.  There are just a couple of minor things to understand and then it is gravy.  I will gladly give you details when you are ready.   The people at Progressive Dynamics are great.  Service techs readily available... Highly recommended.   Unit appears to be much higher quality.  I said screw the warranty on the second WFCO to go bad and put out the money for the Progressive Dynamics unit...you won't be sorry.....Joe
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 1:55pm
Originally posted by Wood River Pod

I need some clarification. Headed out for a 10 day trip and want to have the answer before I head out.  IF...my WFCO dies on the trip, and I use the jumper cable and/or batter charger method, how do I hook it up to my dual 6 volt batteries?  Do I charge both at the same time with one connection to the +  on one and one to the - on the other?  Or do I charge each battery independently?  My gut says hook it up just like the wires form the WFCO, but this wouldn't be the first time I've learned something new.  

The battery charger seems to be the safer as it would have an auto shut off to make sure I'm not cooking the battery.  We also have solar for when we are off the grid, but want to be sure when we have access to power if this happens.  It's not going to happen...but I want to be prepared.  
Thanks


You make your connections to the battery posts the pod wiring is connected to. you have a cable going to the neg(-) on one battery, and the pos(+) on the other battery, from the pod.

You also have 1 cable running from the pos(+) on one battery to the neg(-) on the other battery. You DON'T use those two posts.

Regardless of which method you use, portable solar, battery charger, jumper cables, you charge both batteries at once, it's a 12v system. BTW, charging with jumper cables won't fry your batteries, and again, it's the fastest method you have available. Your solar panel is probably good for 4A, a portable charger, 6-10A, your trucks alternator, 90 to 240A.. The voltage regulator will keep the alternator from running amok on your batteries, same as it does the battery in your truck.
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