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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery charging
    Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 7:02am
With the rPod I ran dual 6v's from Batteries R Us (Duracell). I've heard just as good reports on the Interstate 6v's (Costco?). At 230 (+-) amp hour each. I ran these as low as 60% giving me ~140amps of usage before getting serious for recharge. Since we don't stay put for more than 3 days, this worked out very well. 

Now with the Overlander, I'm running a 90ah lithium and using a DC/DC system from the trucks alternator. I do have 120w of solar as a backup for any extended stay.

I'm a big fan of lithium, just not a big fan of the 'overpriced' batteries/setups out there. 

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jato View Drop Down
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Posts: 3224 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 6:51am
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Well, I'm so far past this now (this was back in 2017) and never did buy a 'geeny', I've had no need. Between the solar I added and the DC/DC charging (from the TV). Good power management, solid quality batteries have done it for us!


Am curious as to what style batteries you ended up purchasing.  I ask because one of my 12v deep cycle batteries is no longer holding a good charge, in fact after giving it a 24 hour 2 amp trickle charge and letting it rest for 6 hours before taking a reading it only reads 12.49 v.  Then again it will be 11 years old come this December.  It is a group size 24 Interstate.  The other one (same name and size) is 4 months newer and still performs very nicely for this boondocker.

I am seriously looking at the Trojan T-1275 (12v).  Weight is 85 lbs and comes with a 150 amp hour rating.  They are not as popular in the golf cart industry as they once were, most 48 volt systems have gone to the 8v batteries, which obviously won't work for our application on the 177.  I am not worried about tongue weight as I added a couple used rotors to the front so I can keep my tongue weight over 300 lbs and that is with a full FW tank, which is located behind the axle.
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 6:04am
Edit: deleted quote from a spammer

Well, I'm so far past this now (this was back in 2017) and never did buy a 'geeny', I've had no need. Between the solar I added and the DC/DC charging (from the TV). Good power management, solid quality batteries have done it for us!
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henryv View Drop Down
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Posts: 259 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 6:30am
I sometimes use my camper for extended living, and/or traveling. I want AC when I need it. I have two Honda generators. Problem solved.
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WillThrill View Drop Down
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by GlueGuy

You can calculate the power of the WFCO charger by multiplying the maximum current (55 amps), by the peak voltage at the end of the bulk cycle (~~ 14.7 volts). That is about 800 watts.

On top of that, as soon as the charger gets AC power, it will also power all of the 12 volt circuits in the Pod, adding to the power draw.

A big reason why so many people are unable to run their air conditioner with a 2kW generator is because their charger is often drawing significant power to charge their battery and run all of the 12 volt items.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2629 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 4:32pm
Multi-stage chargers will start at bulk charge, where they are usually current limited. Once the battery voltage reaches the absorption level (in the 14.6 to 14.8 volt range, the charger should switch to voltage limited, and monitor the current being absorbed by the battery. Some chargers will just set a timer and run at the absorption voltage for a couple of hours. Smarter chargers will watch the current until it reaches a pre-programmed level (to indicate the battery is "full".

Once that level has been reached, the charger should switch to float level, which is going to be in the 13.5 volt area.

You can calculate the power of the WFCO charger by multiplying the maximum current (55 amps), by the peak voltage at the end of the bulk cycle (~~ 14.7 volts). That is about 800 watts.
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 3:02pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Originally posted by GlueGuy

One question to ask is whether the 12V outlet on the generator is actually 12V, or something more intended to actually "charge" batteries. You need quite a bit more than 12V to actually charge a 12V battery. The absorption voltage for a lead acid battery is going to be "about" 14.6 - 14.8 volts. The float voltage for a 12V battery is going to be "about" 13.5 volts.

So if that 12V output is not going to between 13.5 and 14.6 volts, it won't really charge a battery.

This is why you need an actual charger that can deal with this.


It's meant for charging batteries; not as a source for 12v power.  But I've never cared to use it so I haven't actually checked the voltage.  And as far as I know, it's not controlled.  Whatever it does, I think it does it all the time.

TT

What I have learned, subject to interpretation, 6amp charge with no stages or control. 
Now, that's bad for general charging, but for the 'beef-up' charge.. not a bad thing if you know what you're doing.
  
There is is theory of 'over-charge' reaching 15.5v (read on 6v systems) that obviously extends the Ah without hurting the Batteries. The claim is to use a 'constant' charge (which the generator would do) for no longer than 2hrs (or reaching 15.5v). Remember, to all that try this, this is a theory being processed. 
So far sounds good but... Only still a theory.. 

Pushing beyond chargeable rates could reduce cycles of charge..
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by GlueGuy

One question to ask is whether the 12V outlet on the generator is actually 12V, or something more intended to actually "charge" batteries. You need quite a bit more than 12V to actually charge a 12V battery. The absorption voltage for a lead acid battery is going to be "about" 14.6 - 14.8 volts. The float voltage for a 12V battery is going to be "about" 13.5 volts.

So if that 12V output is not going to between 13.5 and 14.6 volts, it won't really charge a battery.

This is why you need an actual charger that can deal with this.


It's meant for charging batteries; not as a source for 12v power.  But I've never cared to use it so I haven't actually checked the voltage.  And as far as I know, it's not controlled.  Whatever it does, I think it does it all the time.

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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 1:47pm
Followed your link and read a bit. Thank you for the link and the response!

55 amp is output. Very nice! 
 It is a 3 stage charger, but, what they don't state is amperage or wattage for charge (well, as far as I can see anyway..). Seems like a decent charger, just wish they'd state wattage on charge.

Really would like to know if it's a 10-15amp charger. I'd be real happy if it was!
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2629 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 12:12pm
Originally posted by WillThrill

The Pod's onboard converter/charger is indeed a 3 stage computer controlled charger.  I cannot recall what the maximum amperage is (it's here in the forum somewhere, perhaps in the 'manual for R-Pod' thread), but I think it's around 15 amps, which is fine for one or two batteries.
The WFCO charger is a 55 amp charger. Pretty hefty by many standards.

http://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8955-55-amp/
bp
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