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twodues View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery drain
    Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 8:19am
New 2017 178-off of "shore power", fully charged deep cycle 12v will drain completely within 12-14 hrs when NO accessories are being used. Re-tested with fully charged battery with each fuse removed to try and isolate the drain with no success. Anyone have similar experience? Hoping to resolve before autumn so we can confidently dry camp.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 9:33am
You might just remove the battery from the R-pod and put it on the bench for 12-14 hours and see if it has an internal problem or not.

If it survives that test, then you would want to put an ammeter inline to see exactly how much current is being pulled when you think everything is "off". After that, it becomes a process of elimination.
bp
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twodues View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 10:25am
The battery integrity has been confirmed and is being charged with deep cycle charging removed from pod. Unfortunately, the process of elimination (by repeated sequential removal of each 12v fuse and install fully charged battery) did not reveal a specific circuit being the problem.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 11:05am
Originally posted by twodues

The battery integrity has been confirmed and is being charged with deep cycle charging removed from pod. Unfortunately, the process of elimination (by repeated sequential removal of each 12v fuse and install fully charged battery) did not reveal a specific circuit being the problem.
Do you know what the current drain is? 0.5 amp, 1 amp, 2 amp, etc.?
bp
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john in idaho View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 6:45pm
Water heater is off - the switch inside the outside panel?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 7:13pm
The best way to find out what's happening is with a clamp on ammeter. If the residual drain is around 0.15A it's the CO detector in is not responsible for the battery discharge. If it's significantly more you just have to keep looking until you isolate the culprit. If you buy an ammeter be sure it measures DC Amps. 
Charlie
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 9:54am
Originally posted by CharlieM

The best way to find out what's happening is with a clamp on ammeter. If the residual drain is around 0.15A it's the CO detector in is not responsible for the battery discharge. If it's significantly more you just have to keep looking until you isolate the culprit. If you buy an ammeter be sure it measures DC Amps. 
IIRC, a clamp on ammeter is only for AC circuits. They will not work on DC circuits unless they are based on hall effect sensors. The simplest way is to open the circuit and insert an ammeter.
bp
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 11:54am
There definitely are DC clamp amp meters.  If you want DC you have to look for it, but a quick look at Amazon shows several.

TT
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

There definitely are DC clamp amp meters.  If you want DC you have to look for it, but a quick look at Amazon shows several.

TT
Yes, there are, but a standard one won't do DC unless it is built with a hall-effect sensor. Those are not typical, but they do exist.
bp
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 4:23pm
DC clamp on ammeters are very available, just not for bargain basement prices. Here's one I like: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-true-rms-ac-dc-clamp-ammeter/p-03473756000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#
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