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Battery drain

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Warranty, Service and Recall Bulletins
Forum Discription: Have a warranty or service experience to share?
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10372
Printed Date: 02 May 2024 at 6:08am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Battery drain
Posted By: twodues
Subject: Battery drain
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 8:19am
New 2017 178-off of "shore power", fully charged deep cycle 12v will drain completely within 12-14 hrs when NO accessories are being used. Re-tested with fully charged battery with each fuse removed to try and isolate the drain with no success. Anyone have similar experience? Hoping to resolve before autumn so we can confidently dry camp.



Replies:
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 9:33am
You might just remove the battery from the R-pod and put it on the bench for 12-14 hours and see if it has an internal problem or not.

If it survives that test, then you would want to put an ammeter inline to see exactly how much current is being pulled when you think everything is "off". After that, it becomes a process of elimination.


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: twodues
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 10:25am
The battery integrity has been confirmed and is being charged with deep cycle charging removed from pod. Unfortunately, the process of elimination (by repeated sequential removal of each 12v fuse and install fully charged battery) did not reveal a specific circuit being the problem.


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 11:05am
Originally posted by twodues

The battery integrity has been confirmed and is being charged with deep cycle charging removed from pod. Unfortunately, the process of elimination (by repeated sequential removal of each 12v fuse and install fully charged battery) did not reveal a specific circuit being the problem.
Do you know what the current drain is? 0.5 amp, 1 amp, 2 amp, etc.?

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 6:45pm
Water heater is off - the switch inside the outside panel?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 7:13pm
The best way to find out what's happening is with a clamp on ammeter. If the residual drain is around 0.15A it's the CO detector in is not responsible for the battery discharge. If it's significantly more you just have to keep looking until you isolate the culprit. If you buy an ammeter be sure it measures DC Amps. 

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 9:54am
Originally posted by CharlieM

The best way to find out what's happening is with a clamp on ammeter. If the residual drain is around 0.15A it's the CO detector in is not responsible for the battery discharge. If it's significantly more you just have to keep looking until you isolate the culprit. If you buy an ammeter be sure it measures DC Amps. 
IIRC, a clamp on ammeter is only for AC circuits. They will not work on DC circuits unless they are based on hall effect sensors. The simplest way is to open the circuit and insert an ammeter.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 11:54am
There definitely are DC clamp amp meters.  If you want DC you have to look for it, but a quick look at Amazon shows several.

TT


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2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

There definitely are DC clamp amp meters.  If you want DC you have to look for it, but a quick look at Amazon shows several.

TT
Yes, there are, but a standard one won't do DC unless it is built with a hall-effect sensor. Those are not typical, but they do exist.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 4:23pm
DC clamp on ammeters are very available, just not for bargain basement prices. Here's one I like:  http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-true-rms-ac-dc-clamp-ammeter/p-03473756000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1# - http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-true-rms-ac-dc-clamp-ammeter/p-03473756000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 5:47pm
+1 , I have a Craftsman DC clamp om ammeter and multimeter. Works fine.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: twodues
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2017 at 8:17pm
Current drain is 7amps at the battery. No current measured at each individual 12v circuit. Bad controller?


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2017 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by twodues

Current drain is 7amps at the battery. No current measured at each individual 12v circuit. Bad controller?
7 amps?!?! Wow. I'm assuming that this is with everything turned off? I would start disconnecting circuits and/or devices until you find what's broken. 

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 8:08am
Try pulling the two high current battery reversal fuses. This will disconnect the converter from the battery and power panel. If removing these fuses does not interrupt the drain look to the slide mechanism or the power tongue jack if you have one. These devices don't go through the fuse panel. 

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 9:46am
Just for grins I would make sure your ebrake circuit is still in place and pin hasn't been pulled, that ebrake works off the battery.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: ToolmanJohn
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 5:23pm
mcarter +1 good call!!! twodues you should check it out.

I was thinking of some kind of ground fault, with a screw having been put through one of the positive supply wires, because the propane detector (hard wired) takes a week or more to kill a 12 volt. But the idea that the breakaway switch is somehow responsible is a good idea.


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2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 7:01pm
I got busted on that break-away switch once. Guess I inadvertently pulled it disconnecting TT.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 8:29pm
Experience can be a harsh teacher.
I would also go with pulling fuses one at a time and seeing if the drain is on one of the circuits. The brake cable is something I would not have thought of but it makes sense. Also, check the TV antenna booster. That is an easy one to miss. Make sure it is off.


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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2017 at 10:56pm
Originally posted by twodues

Current drain is 7amps at the battery. No current measured at each individual 12v circuit. Bad controller?

Seven Amps is in the ballpark for two brake magnets and they do not go through the fuse panel. If the emergency brake pin is pulled or the switch is defective you can see this much drain BUT you will certainly know something is amiss when you try to move the Pod.


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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: twodues
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2017 at 7:27pm
All logical suggestions. I've tried them to no avail before posting the initial thread.


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2017 at 7:54pm
Time to troubleshoot my friend.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: twodues
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 8:28am
Thanks to all who provided input. It was the wireless brake controller. Removal of breakaway pin when disconnecting TV! Important detail that should have been mentioned at time of purchase.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 9:35am
Originally posted by twodues

Thanks to all who provided input. It was the wireless brake controller. Removal of breakaway pin when disconnecting TV! Important detail that should have been mentioned at time of purchase.

A little explanation please. The wireless controller and the breakaway pin are totally independent. The pin should never require removal, either connected or disconnected from the TV. It is only pulled during a real breakaway or for test purposes. Therefore it would not require a mention in connection with the controller at purchase. Please explain.


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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: twodues
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 9:55am
On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 4:05pm
Good job twodues.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: Bill-J
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2017 at 5:31pm
Had the same problem.  Finally traced it to 2 things.  #1 is the frig.  It has a draw all the time, on or off.  Apparently it is power to the control board so when you do turn it on it will function.  #2 and the big one is the CO alarm.  It is on ALL the time that the battery is connected.

I installed a marine battery switch under the seat with the inverter in it with the control where it is available where you enter the coach.  

The battery wire comes in under the seat (where all the sawdust, wire ends, wood chips, and trash from manufacturing are stored) and goes to an inline breaker.  This breaker has 2 wires attached to the battery side and 1 on the other.  The smaller second wire on the input side is the one going to the CO sensor and alarm and this is why you cannot turn it off by pulling fuses, etc.  The single  heavy wire on the opposite side goes into the 12v power panel.

What I did was relocate the wire from the battery to the added switch, then a wire of the same gauge going back to where the battery wire was attached to the breaker.  This allows you to turn EVERYTHING off when you put the new switch to OFF.... CO sensor and frig.

WARNING........ I was told by the service manager of PaulsboRV that by adding this in-line switch I had completely voided the factory warranty on the electrical system....  But then I consider ANYTHING that ANYONE from PaulsboRV to be totally BS which doesn't bother me as I have gotten no support from them on anything nor from Forest River and have washed my hands of them both.... Hope your experience has been better than mine.  

Good luck.


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When in doubt, don't.


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 10:58am
Again, that service manager is an idiot. Feel free to point him the the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act - Magnuson-Moss Act. Unless he/they can PROVE a mod you did caused the EXACT failure later, they are REQUIRED by LAW to honor the warranty terms. 

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Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 11:22am
+1

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Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150
2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk
Previously owned
2015 Rpod 179
2010 Rpod 171


Posted By: Bill-J
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 11:38am
I am sure that it really does not void the warrenty but when dealing with idiots, logic and reason does not matter.  Because of ALL the problems we have had with the Rpod and the refusal of Forest River to make good their warrenty AND the dealers refusal to do anything on their own there comes a time when you just wash your hands of Forest River and PaulsboRV and continue life.

We have found a super company for service which we will stick with and now can put the trash behind us and enjoy the Rpod.... guess it goes without saying, however, that for a long time there will always be the niggle in the back of your mind wondering what will happen next.


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When in doubt, don't.


Posted By: flaco
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2017 at 10:58am
Bill J I like your idea of a switch to completely turn everything off when not using the camper. We recently picked up a new 171. The dealer where we bought it near Elmira,NY replaced the battery before we picked it up because the original new battery died before we arrived. He did mention that there are those things like the CO detector which constantly draw power. We haven't taken it off shore power yet except to tow it home and haven't tried it real camping use yet. Newer cars exhibit some of this drainage as well but not to this extent. The only other solutions I can think of are keeping the RPod on shore power or at least a battery tender. Or a solar panel for which this RPod came equipped to connect to. Anybody try solar? Would a 100W panel be enough I wonder? Beer  


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2017 at 2:21pm
Originally posted by twodues

On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).

So how does the pin get pulled in the case of a trailer disconnect? The cable has to directly connected to the TV or it's useless.

TT

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2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 11:44am
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Originally posted by twodues

On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).

So how does the pin get pulled in the case of a trailer disconnect? The cable has to directly connected to the TV or it's useless.

TT
I'm guessing it might have been some sort of accident when disconnecting the trailer. IOW, pulling the hitch off, and missing the little detail of removing the trailer brake clip.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 11:46am
Originally posted by flaco

Would a 100W panel be enough I wonder? Beer  
As long as the parasitic drain is less than what the 100W panel puts in on an average basis. The parasitic drain that I think is "typical" is only a couple of watts or so. So the daily drain with a 2-watt load is ~~ 48 watt-hours. If your solar panel puts in 100 watts for more than a 1/2 hour, you're good.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost



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