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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery drain
    Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 11:46am
Originally posted by flaco

Would a 100W panel be enough I wonder? Beer  
As long as the parasitic drain is less than what the 100W panel puts in on an average basis. The parasitic drain that I think is "typical" is only a couple of watts or so. So the daily drain with a 2-watt load is ~~ 48 watt-hours. If your solar panel puts in 100 watts for more than a 1/2 hour, you're good.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2017 at 11:44am
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Originally posted by twodues

On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).

So how does the pin get pulled in the case of a trailer disconnect? The cable has to directly connected to the TV or it's useless.

TT
I'm guessing it might have been some sort of accident when disconnecting the trailer. IOW, pulling the hitch off, and missing the little detail of removing the trailer brake clip.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2017 at 2:21pm
Originally posted by twodues

On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).

So how does the pin get pulled in the case of a trailer disconnect? The cable has to directly connected to the TV or it's useless.

TT
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flaco View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2017 at 10:58am
Bill J I like your idea of a switch to completely turn everything off when not using the camper. We recently picked up a new 171. The dealer where we bought it near Elmira,NY replaced the battery before we picked it up because the original new battery died before we arrived. He did mention that there are those things like the CO detector which constantly draw power. We haven't taken it off shore power yet except to tow it home and haven't tried it real camping use yet. Newer cars exhibit some of this drainage as well but not to this extent. The only other solutions I can think of are keeping the RPod on shore power or at least a battery tender. Or a solar panel for which this RPod came equipped to connect to. Anybody try solar? Would a 100W panel be enough I wonder? Beer  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 11:38am
I am sure that it really does not void the warrenty but when dealing with idiots, logic and reason does not matter.  Because of ALL the problems we have had with the Rpod and the refusal of Forest River to make good their warrenty AND the dealers refusal to do anything on their own there comes a time when you just wash your hands of Forest River and PaulsboRV and continue life.

We have found a super company for service which we will stick with and now can put the trash behind us and enjoy the Rpod.... guess it goes without saying, however, that for a long time there will always be the niggle in the back of your mind wondering what will happen next.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 11:22am
+1
Leo & Melissa Bachand
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 10:58am
Again, that service manager is an idiot. Feel free to point him the the Magnuson-Moss Act. Unless he/they can PROVE a mod you did caused the EXACT failure later, they are REQUIRED by LAW to honor the warranty terms. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2017 at 5:31pm
Had the same problem.  Finally traced it to 2 things.  #1 is the frig.  It has a draw all the time, on or off.  Apparently it is power to the control board so when you do turn it on it will function.  #2 and the big one is the CO alarm.  It is on ALL the time that the battery is connected.

I installed a marine battery switch under the seat with the inverter in it with the control where it is available where you enter the coach.  

The battery wire comes in under the seat (where all the sawdust, wire ends, wood chips, and trash from manufacturing are stored) and goes to an inline breaker.  This breaker has 2 wires attached to the battery side and 1 on the other.  The smaller second wire on the input side is the one going to the CO sensor and alarm and this is why you cannot turn it off by pulling fuses, etc.  The single  heavy wire on the opposite side goes into the 12v power panel.

What I did was relocate the wire from the battery to the added switch, then a wire of the same gauge going back to where the battery wire was attached to the breaker.  This allows you to turn EVERYTHING off when you put the new switch to OFF.... CO sensor and frig.

WARNING........ I was told by the service manager of PaulsboRV that by adding this in-line switch I had completely voided the factory warranty on the electrical system....  But then I consider ANYTHING that ANYONE from PaulsboRV to be totally BS which doesn't bother me as I have gotten no support from them on anything nor from Forest River and have washed my hands of them both.... Hope your experience has been better than mine.  

Good luck.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 4:05pm
Good job twodues.
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 9:55am
On a wireless brake controller, the breakaway pin is wired directly to the hard wired control box mounted on the TT (the control box is wirelessly linked to the hand-held control module carried in your TV).
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