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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 9:48am
I'm inclined to think that the RV center didn't actually test the current. I think the element is bad, or else there is a wiring problem. You won't know until you get a DVM on the WH elements.

If there is 110v on the elements when it's on electric, then disconnect shore power, and remove the wires on the WH. Then measure the resistance through the WH terminals. It should be a fairly low resistance, probably in the 10-15 ohm range. If it measures open, or a much higher resistance, then it's a bad element.
bp
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 2:31pm
The Suburban SW6DE element is spec'ed at 1440 Watts, 12 Amps, 10 Ohms. If an RV tech measures "~10 Amps" it's probably working. Agreed the DVM is the final test.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2630 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 2:01pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

Not questioning you intelligence. Just suggesting possible causes. Physics is physics. Has anything changed since you dealer ran his check? Has the WH been drained? If the WH element is drawing ~10A it must be heating something. 
I think 10 amps is less than what it would "normally" draw? There may be a frayed wire or something leading to the water heater with a high resistance short. In which case, measuring the actual voltage going into the water heater would be the place to look.

Another option would be to hook 110V directly into the water heater at the terminals to see what happens.
bp
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 12:33pm
Not questioning you intelligence. Just suggesting possible causes. Physics is physics. Has anything changed since you dealer ran his check? Has the WH been drained? If the WH element is drawing ~10A it must be heating something. 
Charlie
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Hayduke View Drop Down
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Posts: 68 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 10:10am
Originally posted by CharlieM


Originally posted by Hayduke

Thanks for the input so far. Let me summarize:
1. I'm positive the bypass valves are correct. I get hot water in a few minutes on propane.
2. The switch on the exterior of the water heater and the breaker in the converter panel are both on.
3. The rv service center states they tested the electric as pulling ~10 amps.

I still do not get hot water on electric.
Never say never but there's almost no way all three items can be true and yet no hot water. Are you sure you're getting power from your source? Do the microwave and A/C work when plugged in? The WH has separate thermostats for gas and electric. There are four black buttons on the heater to reset them. Push all four. If still nothing then follow the DVM suggestions of Tars Tarkas and McCarter above. Good luck.

I am 100% POSITIVE that all three of the above are true. No need for continued insults to my intelligence on that front. I'll try voltage and continuity checks at the element, and reset buttons on the thermostats. Thanks for the suggestions.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 8:10am
Originally posted by Hayduke

Thanks for the input so far. Let me summarize:
1. I'm positive the bypass valves are correct. I get hot water in a few minutes on propane.
2. The switch on the exterior of the water heater and the breaker in the converter panel are both on.
3. The rv service center states they tested the electric as pulling ~10 amps.

I still do not get hot water on electric.

Never say never but there's almost no way all three items can be true and yet no hot water. Are you sure you're getting power from your source? Do the microwave and A/C work when plugged in? The WH has separate thermostats for gas and electric. There are four black buttons on the heater to reset them. Push all four. If still nothing then follow the DVM suggestions of Tars Tarkas and McCarter above. Good luck.
Charlie
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 7:48am
I think thermostat is used in both electric and gas modes. If the gas works the thermostat is probably good. In this case either the voltage is not getting to element or element is bad. Two checks with a DVM, one for correct voltage to element, and with power off a continuity check of element.
Mike Carter
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 7:30am
First, use a volt meter to make sure the element is getting juice.  If it is, replace the element.  Too cheap and easy to not.  If you aren't getting juice, you'll have to track down a wiring problem. 

I don't know where the thermostat is, but I guess that could be the problem.

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Hayduke View Drop Down
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Posts: 68 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 12:28am
Thanks for the input so far. Let me summarize:
1. I'm positive the bypass valves are correct. I get hot water in a few minutes on propane.
2. The switch on the exterior of the water heater and the breaker in the converter panel are both on.
3. The rv service center states they tested the electric as pulling ~10 amps.

I still do not get hot water on electric.
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2017 Tacoma Double Cab
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 7:26pm
Yep, that's what I said.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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