Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks: Water Heater Problem

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Water Heater Problem

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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10234
Printed Date: 17 May 2024 at 2:17pm
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Topic: Water Heater Problem

Posted By: Hayduke
Subject: Water Heater Problem
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2017 at 9:50pm

Our water heater stopped functioning in the electric mode last year. We share the rpod with a few family members, and from asking other users I came to the assumption that the electric element had been burned out.

We had the pod in at the local rv repair place for a few other things (not an rpod dealer, but they do sell other forest river brands/models). We asked them to fix the water heater. When we picked up the trailer, the service people said the water heater element was drawing the expected amount of amps (I forget the exact number) and should function fine.

This is our first time using the water heater since, and still no heat on electric. The breaker inside and the switch outside are both on.

Any ideas? How can I go about diagnosing? Is the statement about it drawing the right amount of power accurate?

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2012 177 HRE
2017 Tacoma Double Cab

Replies:

Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 7:24am

Electric is a little slower than propane I think. Have you left in on overnight and still no hot water? Does it work on propane? And where I"m going with that: are you sure the bypass valves are set correctly?

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2010 176
FJ Cruiser

Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 9:34am

Ditto on the bypass valves.

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Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150
2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk
Previously owned
2015 Rpod 179
2010 Rpod 171

Posted By: Hayduke
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 10:59am

Works great on propane. Left it on electric for several hours last night with no result.

Bypass valves are all in the correct orientation.

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2012 177 HRE
2017 Tacoma Double Cab

Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 4:47pm

Check the water heater element for continuity. It's an element. Just like your oven at home. I think that's your problem.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."

Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 6:58pm

Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 7:06pm

I get hot water in 15 minutes on electric. That's because my element is working. Replace the electric element.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."

Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 7:23pm

Make sure the breakers are on and the outside switch on the WH is on. The WH electric element is approx. 1500 watts. If you have any way to measure the input current to the trailer you should see 10-14 Amps. If you get hot water on gas the bypass valves are set properly.From a cold start you should get some hot water in 15 minutes on electric.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2017 at 7:26pm

Yep, that's what I said.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."

Posted By: Hayduke
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 12:28am

Thanks for the input so far. Let me summarize:
1. I'm positive the bypass valves are correct. I get hot water in a few minutes on propane.
2. The switch on the exterior of the water heater and the breaker in the converter panel are both on.
3. The rv service center states they tested the electric as pulling ~10 amps.

I still do not get hot water on electric.

-------------
2012 177 HRE
2017 Tacoma Double Cab

Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 7:30am

First, use a volt meter to make sure the element is getting juice. If it is, replace the element. Too cheap and easy to not. If you aren't getting juice, you'll have to track down a wiring problem.

I don't know where the thermostat is, but I guess that could be the problem.

TT

-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser

Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 7:48am

I think thermostat is used in both electric and gas modes. If the gas works the thermostat is probably good. In this case either the voltage is not getting to element or element is bad. Two checks with a DVM, one for correct voltage to element, and with power off a continuity check of element.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."

Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 8:10am

Originally posted by Hayduke

Thanks for the input so far. Let me summarize:
1. I'm positive the bypass valves are correct. I get hot water in a few minutes on propane.
2. The switch on the exterior of the water heater and the breaker in the converter panel are both on.
3. The rv service center states they tested the electric as pulling ~10 amps.

I still do not get hot water on electric.

Never say never but there's almost no way all three items can be true and yet no hot water. Are you sure you're getting power from your source? Do the microwave and A/C work when plugged in? The WH has separate thermostats for gas and electric. There are four black buttons on the heater to reset them. Push all four. If still nothing then follow the DVM suggestions of Tars Tarkas and McCarter above. Good luck.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Posted By: Hayduke
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 10:10am

Originally posted by CharlieM

I am 100% POSITIVE that all three of the above are true. No need for continued insults to my intelligence on that front. I'll try voltage and continuity checks at the element, and reset buttons on the thermostats. Thanks for the suggestions.

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2012 177 HRE
2017 Tacoma Double Cab

Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 12:33pm

Not questioning you intelligence. Just suggesting possible causes. Physics is physics. Has anything changed since you dealer ran his check? Has the WH been drained? If the WH element is drawing ~10A it must be heating something.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 2:01pm

Originally posted by CharlieM

Not questioning you intelligence. Just suggesting possible causes. Physics is physics. Has anything changed since you dealer ran his check? Has the WH been drained? If the WH element is drawing ~10A it must be heating something.

I think 10 amps is less than what it would "normally" draw? There may be a frayed wire or something leading to the water heater with a high resistance short. In which case, measuring the actual voltage going into the water heater would be the place to look.

Another option would be to hook 110V directly into the water heater at the terminals to see what happens.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost

Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2017 at 2:31pm

The Suburban SW6DE element is spec'ed at 1440 Watts, 12 Amps, 10 Ohms. If an RV tech measures "~10 Amps" it's probably working. Agreed the DVM is the final test.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 9:48am

I'm inclined to think that the RV center didn't actually test the current. I think the element is bad, or else there is a wiring problem. You won't know until you get a DVM on the WH elements.

If there is 110v on the elements when it's on electric, then disconnect shore power, and remove the wires on the WH. Then measure the resistance through the WH terminals. It should be a fairly low resistance, probably in the 10-15 ohm range. If it measures open, or a much higher resistance, then it's a bad element.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost