Running the fridge while driving

The pin that is labeled "brake controller output" is the yellow line that comes from the brake controller and runs to the brakes.  typically it only outputs 6-8 volts depending on the setting on the controller (for lighter trailers).  

The line labeled "12v battery power" runs from the TV battery to the pod battery and to the converter where it splits up to run the lights, fan, fridge "brains", 12 volt fridge heater (when fridge is set to 12 volt mode), and LP detector (the one by the floor).  The fridge heater or a low pod battery will both overload this line on most factory or aftermarket Bargeman installations since they use 12 gauge wiring - which gives you a voltage drop between the TV and pod battery, and due to physics this forces the fridge to pull only from the pod battery.  The pod battery itself won't charge.  After 8 hours on the road you arrive in-camp with a dead pod battery and warm fridge.  This happened during our last long trip with our pod with our new Suburban.  I didn't check the size of this wire so assumed I would use 12 volt mode because the gas mode wasn't working.  Wondered why the temperature slowly climbed as we monitored our remote display in the TV.  Didn't realize until we got back what the problem was.  You really need 10 gauge (also too small for the worst conditions) or 8 gauge (best).

Turn/brake left/right, and running lights have their own separate wiring, too.

The Achilles heel is the ground line.  If it makes a bad connection or is sized too small before it connects to the pod and/or TV frame, it can affect everything listed above.  It should be sized large, short, and go directly to the frame on each side.