newbie inverter question - Event Date: 15 Nov 2015

Originally posted by CharlieM Originally posted by JandL The measurements with the 120 AC adapter with the TV running the current measurement was .11 amps and with a DVD playing .15 amps (.15A x 120V = 18 W). The difference in wattage between the DC and AC I think is because the AC Adapter is a small inverter. So if I wanted to play a DVD and run the TV thru an inverter it would draw from the battery .15 amps x 11 = 1.65 amps. If I ran it with just the battery it’s only drawing 1 amp. I was with you until the last sentence. I'm not sure where the number 11 came from. The 18 watts seems reasonabe at 120V. Producing that from 12V with an 80% efficient inverter would take 18/0.8/12 = 1.875A That said, the 12V TV is still the best option.

Modern DC power supplies use PWM - pulse width modulation, basically it rapidly switches the DC output on/off to achieve the desired voltage. Very efficient, very light weight, and almost zero tare loss when they aren't in use (but still plugged in). Way better than the old transformer-based supplies.

I think JandL is using "11 amps for 1 amp" in his conversion? Close, but the math should be done differently to be accurate. If you run the numbers for the fanless 300 watt Morningstar inverter that I like, it is 92% efficient and uses .45 amps tare @ 12 volts.
.15 amps / .92 efficiency = .163 amps @ 120 volts
.163 * 10 = 1.63 amps @ 12 volts
1.63 + .45 = 2.08 amps total at 12 volts

Double the amps vs. a straight 12 volt connection. However, if you only use the television for a few hours over a weekend it may not be a big difference.

GLBCamper-----I just went out and unplugged the pod from shore power, went inside and turned on the Jensen AM/FM and listened to the radio.  I was sure that was how it worked but you got me wondering about it for a minute.  I keep it plugged in here at the house.  

The guys at the factory fixed a few minor problems. They were really nice and helpful. But, the axle never got fixed. The insurer or axle manufacturer or the Rpod factory in Indiana turned down my request. Uninsurable problem, drivers fault. I have driven a trailer similar in size and weight to my 179 for 20 + years. I have hit similar bumps n the road and never had a problem. I guess I drive it like this and replace the tire when needed...

For that price I wouldn't make an insurance claim - and it is probably less than your deductible anyway.  Save your claim for big stuff.  I'd wait to see how it affects the tires.  They may still go 5-6 years just with a funny tread wear.