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mountain mist
Senior Member
Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
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Posts: 426
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Topic: Winterization Posted: 19 Oct 2010 at 6:34pm |
Will be doing some camping in November, even after Winterizing the Pod. Since I use to taking water from needs when camping in a tent, having propane to cook and have heater, Wow, a treat.
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'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
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Aris
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Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posts: 5
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Posted: 20 Oct 2010 at 4:23pm |
Aris the newby here again.
I am used to the winterization concept and process. I also own a boat. But reading through all these posts has me confused a bit.
I have a simple question: If you only use the water tank to hold water (i.e. never hooked up to city water), and only ever used the kitchen faucet (and olny ever used cold water), can I simplify the process by just putting antifreeze in my water tank and then running it through the kitchen faucet, then draining both tanks?
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Aris, Baltimore, MD
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Outbound
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
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Posts: 767
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Posted: 20 Oct 2010 at 4:36pm |
Originally posted by Aris
If you only use the water tank to hold water (i.e. never hooked up to city water), and only ever used the kitchen faucet (and olny ever used cold water), can I simplify the process by just putting antifreeze in my water tank and then running it through the kitchen faucet, then draining both tanks? |
Nope.
Just because you never used the shower or the toilet, it doesn't mean that water didn't get pushed part way through the pipes leading to them. Similarly, the line to your city water connection will be partially filled with water (the check valve is at the connection). Don't forget your low-point drains, too - gravity ensures that they'll definitely be filled with water. Also, your water heater tank will have partially filled, even if you've never turned on the tap for hot water.
And, don't forget about your traps - they'll likely have water in them too that must be displaced with antifreeze.
Plus, you really don't want RV antifreeze in your fresh tank. It'll be very difficult to get the taste out come spring.
Winterizing really is very easy; a 10 minute job. A large jug of RV antifreeze cost me $8 CDN at WalMart and is more than enough to winterize my r-pod.
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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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techntrek
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
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Posts: 9062
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Posted: 20 Oct 2010 at 5:13pm |
I'll add that you would need multiple gallons of antifreeze in your fresh water tank to get it through all of your lines. For starters, the water pickup line isn't on the very bottom so you need to get above that level. But by using the special antifreeze pickup line located near the water pump you'll need less than 1 gallon. I usually use about 3/4 each year.
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mountain mist
Senior Member
Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:22pm |
We have been looking for the special antifreeze line near the water pump. To no avail! Just not looking in right place? Just where do we start
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'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
|
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rpodcamper.com
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Joined: 26 Nov 2009
Location: Reading, Pa
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:47pm |
on my 2009 rpod 171 the hose is attached about 6" from the water pump under the stove cabnet. But i heard on some newer units they have moved the pump back with the hot water heater. Mine is a clear hose that has a threaded end on it next to a shut off point.
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mountain mist
Senior Member
Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
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Posts: 426
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:48pm |
HELP  Having trouble finding the water pump first of all.
Called our dealer. THEY know nothing. Have never winterized one.
Could go way of pour the antifreeze down the drains and toilet, but if we can find the pickup line you speak of (and maybe not all Pods have them was suggested) we could use less.
Thank you for any help in direction of find the pump.
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'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
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Posts: 9062
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 5:00pm |
You must do more than the drains - the internals of the faucets will be destroyed if frozen. My 2010 171 has the water pump back by the water heater. You have to lift the mattress on the queen bed, then you'll see several screws holding down the plywood to your right (same side as the kitchen). Unscrew them to find the water heater, bypass valves, water pump, and antifreeze hose.
I left the screws out so now its much easier to get into that compartment in the spring and fall.
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mountain mist
Senior Member
Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 426
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 6:11pm |
Just looked in the last place we had, under the mattress. The pump sound was coming from that area. While not easy, now that it has been located, will be in future. Husband would not leave the screws out, tried to get him to.
Now, we have come to the conclusion that in order not to get bored while putting these Pods together, the construction teams do something different each week. Yuk, Yuk. 
The old shell game.
But now I can rest easy that the investment has been protected.
Thank you for the help. I am out of the mood for camping at this time. 
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'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
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TIDALWAVE
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: MINNESOTA
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Posts: 315
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Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 7:05pm |
I wanted to be able to get at the RV antifreeze pickup hose easily. After removing the hold-down screws on the seat base above the pump...I installed a couple of flush brass hinges along the wall side of the seat base. I also drilled a hole on the inboard side of the seat base so that I would have a 'finger hole' to lift the base up. The seat base sits on top of the surrounding structure, so there is no worry about the base falling in. (If you just permanently remove the hold down screws there is a chance for the seat base to shift while you sit on it...you would do a lot of damage falling into the pump/heater/plumbing area!)
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TIDALWAVE
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