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Topic ClosedR-Pod Owner Wannabe

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: R-Pod Owner Wannabe
    Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:33pm
Interesting experience with the Helium fridge. I've wondered how they were working out.

Researching your DM2662 it looks like it does have the heater, called Climate Control. The earlier user manual indicates they did have an on/off switch, but the later 2009 manual doesn't mention it for the 2662. Check page 15 and look for the switch on you fridge. If it is not there it can be added or defeated with some modification. On my Dometic it was a single wire mod.
Older manual:
http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/EPiServer/Dometic/US/Manuals/RV-manuals/Refrigerators/Americana-AmericanaPlus-Installation-Operating-Manual_17602.pdf

Newer manual:
http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/EPiServer/Dometic/US/Manuals/RV-Manuals/Refrigerators/Americana-Americana-Plus-users-Manual_3313240.000_17711.pdf

I can't find a spec on 12V current for yours, but you can easily measure it if you can find and use an ammeter. I suspect it's closer to my model 3762 since it is very similar. Until you have verified documentation or a good measurement I'm very suspicious of 3.3A.


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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:47pm
Going through this stroll down Refrigerator Memory Lane, I recalled that I did pull a clip behind the light inside the fridge. As I recall, just pulling this clip both turned off that dehumidifier thing AND turned off the light. I can live without the light. 

As I recall now, I discovered that "fix" after my last camping trip of last season. So, if I don't come home with an R-Pod tomorrow, I'll yank that red wire and see how it goes. 

But I really want a 171 or a 172...

When I walked over to the FunFinder's garage to get the fridge model number, I noticed that the amp draw for propane on the inside label had two dashes (as in blank)...
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:55pm
I had posted this on 8/25/2015 over on the Fun Finder Forum. The reply indicates the .5A is ONLY for the climate control...I don't know what the total is. I have, however, received erroneous information from Dometic in the past. 
_______________________________________________________

Here is the reply I just received from Dometic:

With the climate control system, as long as the refrigerator is on the climate control will pull .5 amp per hour.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 10:01pm
That is consistent with my info from Dometic and my measurements. The 0.5 Amp draw is constant, which eats up 12 AH of battery capacity per day. You don't need it. There is some draw for the 12V control logic and the fans when they run, but nothing like that constant 1/2A and certainly not 3.3A.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 10:22pm
Yup, it is a huge draw and completely stupid that they removed the switch to defeat it.  Even for the older fridges like mine, the switch isn't on the main control panel so you have to hunt for it after finding out that it even exists.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 5:41pm
Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by fredtello1

Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!

Here is a rather lengthy discussion, along with instructions, that was had over on rv dot net. (hope the link works).



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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by xyzhollyxyz

[QUOTE=fredtello1]

Here is a rather lengthy discussion, along with instructions, that was had over on rv dot net. (hope the link works).





If I understand the referenced diagrams and your picture, disconnecting the two wires connected to the one side of the light WILL NOT disable the heater. It just disables the light. The correct place to disconnect the heater is at the ground block in the rear outside access  panel. On my newer model the wire is a light blue and is connected directly to the ground stud. In the referenced RV.net postings, on the first schematic, that wire appears to be brown. On the second posted schematic appears to have both heater and light hard wired in parallel. Disconnecting the ground wire in the back will disable both, but I can't read the color. You could cut the heater wire at the light, but you must get the correct wire. The heater is item K on the schematic and MAY be a blue wire. All of this can be verified with an ammeter at the battery.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by fredtello1

Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!

This is only true on the larger models with the separate freezer.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:56pm
Ran out and took a picture of the light. I pulled the connection with the black wire and the light went out. I didnt' want to yank too hard on the white plastic thing with the red wires...I have been known to break things... Cry

So, what do I (we) do to cut off that heater thing and save our battery(ies)? HELP! 
(yes, I know the light is missing - for clarity...I put it back in place when I was done)

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