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Topic ClosedWeight distribution and brake control

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Robwid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Weight distribution and brake control
    Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 8:56pm
We've towed our 177 with a 2010 Tacoma with tow package and a simple anti-sway bar without issue for 4 years.
Rob
2012 HRE 177
2010 Toyota Tacoma
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:24pm
Hmmm. It says for the fastway e2 I need to tighten the ball to 600 ft lbs. that could be a problem unless I buy a 200 dollar torque wrench. Then I'm into the higher cost of the Andersen which appears to be easier to install. 
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:33pm
Rob. That was my initial thought when I started to research this. I would just buy an anti sway bar for 50 bucks and be done. In fact, one dealer I went to didn't even think I needed that. Giving my lack of towing experience though and an overly cautious wife has made me think better safe than sorry. I hate hearing "I told you so." 😀
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:49pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Hmmm. It says for the fastway e2 I need to tighten the ball to 600 ft lbs. that could be a problem unless I buy a 200 dollar torque wrench. Then I'm into the higher cost of the Andersen which appears to be easier to install. 

The manual for my 600/6000 E2 calls for 450 lb-ft on the ball and 250 lb-ft on the shank bolts. I bought a torque wrench because I didn't have one and have never bought a tool I regretted, but you don't have to. The entire hitch installation and setup can be accomplished without the final torquing. Once you get everything tweeked you can get someone to supply the final tightening. For that a trailer shop or auto garage can torque it for a few bucks. Some auto parts stores like Autozone will rent tools for a nominal fee. 

The Andersen has its own set of issues. It is good for sway but not so good for weight distribution, but you don't need that much weight distro. Just enough to suppress the bounce. Andersen has had a lot of trouble with their cone material. So far they've been good about replacing the cones, but the
long term jury is still out.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:58pm
Oh good call Charlie. Maybe Home Depot? I know the one by my house has tool rentals. May be worth a call. Thanks. 
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voisj View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 12:04pm
What is the Tow rating on your truck? Could be as High as 6500lb.  Even at 5000lb  it's good enough to tow it home. Tell the dealer to pound sand and do it yourself for less than half that. I recommend it for the Tacoma, and wouldn't tow with a fully loaded trailer (and truck) without it, You never know what some moron will do that makes you do an evasive maneuver. 

My dealer offered to install it for free if I brought it in when I picked up the trailer , But it hadn't shown up yet.

Install isn't to hard IF you get a good look at one that's done already, But with no knowledge going in it's a little tricky. I took pictures of one that was done already. 
I no longer tow with it because I bought a much bigger truck, So I have a nice Husky unit for sale cheap, (Only used twice!)

Brake control setting #  is unique to each vehicle, But you Have the general idea.
Rgds John 




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John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 1:12pm
Thanks vois. The tow rating is 6500 so I'm good. I think I decided to buy the trailer as is (new) and show up with a 2 in ball and a brake control and drive it home and have it installed. Empty truck and trailer I should be good you think. The drive home is about 150 miles and I have one small mountain to negotiate but I'll take it slow.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 1:14pm
Charlie or anyone: Does anyone know the difference between the techshioma P 2 and P 3 brake control?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Charlie or anyone: Does anyone know the difference between the techshioma P 2 and P 3 brake control?

The Tekonsh P2 and P3  do basically the same thing. The difference is the P3 displays understandable English; the P2 displays codes which have to be looked up in a book. The P3 is a whole lot more convenience for just a few bucks. I had an earlier Tekonsha Voyager and I got very tired of digging in the glove box for the book every time I wanted to change something. Go with the P3.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:18pm
Ok Charlie. The p3 it is. I am buying a new 179 from the dealer and I decided against paying for all the dealer prep fees which would have been almost 2000 extra.  Therefore I don't get a battery with it or a walk through, wash, systems check, or a full tank of propane. I can deal. But what is the best battery to buy for it? I thought I read something about a golf cart battery? Are there any other concerns I should have when I pick it up?
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